20/09/2013

Milano Fashion Week SS14: Costume National

Yesterday it was time for Ennio Capasa to make his addition to the Spring/Summer 2014 collections, and after showing in Paris for 23 years, he brought Costume National back to the show scene of Milan. The Blogazine caught a moment with the designer backstage after the show.



What are your first feelings now, right after the show?

They are positive feelings! I’m happy about it and I think the vibration, the energy, was good and this place is just amazing! I feel good.

What was the initial emotion that started this collection?

You know, when I start a collection I always think of construction and deconstruction, and because of this beautiful building that was barely just finished, I tried to think if there is something that has the same value, the same energy and if there is some kind of possibility to translate that into clothes.

You tend to implement menswear elements into the women’s wear collections. Is it a result of your love for tailoring?

I cannot say that this is a masculine collection, but I can say it’s a modern collection and I can say that tailoring is a treasure of Italy! This is the one place in the world where one has great suit tailoring. I think it’s something fantastic and I like to touch that part. Actually, what I like is when we can touch the past but merge it together with the future, and that is what’s very very important to me.



Your work is famous for its innovative approach but also this passion of yours for Italian tailoring. What’s the trick for finding the perfect balance between the classic elements and the evolution and innovation of things?

Oh you never know how it will go! Sometimes it turns out better and sometimes not, one collection is more successful than another but it’s this balance that you talk about that is the achievement, the point I want to arrive to. I think this collection was quite well done in that sense, there was a good balance. I’ve been working in fashion for many many years and some collections have of course been less balanced. This time I think the collection is very strong.

When you first live streamed a fashion show you were a pioneer in spreading fashion that way. What are your thoughts about the extreme width that new media has created in the fashion landscape today?

When we made that streaming, it was the first in the world. We, my brother and I, believed, or smelled, that it was the future and we are very happy about being the first ones in the history of fashion live streaming. I think it’s like when the first people used electricity. It was something incredible, but now it’s part of our daily lives and it’s something natural.

Your reality on the runway is very much the reality and experience of the clothes that your end customer receives too. Is it important for you to create clothes that work as well on the runway as on the street?

For me it’s absolutely important! I think the ‘catwalk fashion’ is coming to an end. Fashion should be strong and there must be innovation but in the same time it has to be fashion for the use in the real life. It can be for a special occasion or a party, but it must be for real occasions.


Interview Lisa Olsson Hjerpe – Images by Agota Lukytė 
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05/10/2012

Global Fashion Show Trend Overview – Summer 13

Global Fashion Show Trend Overview – Summer 13

Here at The Blogazine, we’ve been following the SS13 runway shows from the fashion capitals; New York to London to Milan and rounding off in joli Paris. Each city is unique and creates its own buzz and attitude. We’ve been analyzing closely the key trends and have selected some of our favorites.

CUT OUTS

Cut outs are popular this season with designers creating slick laser cut geometric shapes, from rounded geometric shapes at Rue du Mail to harlequin diamonds at Balmain or more nature inspired leafy cut outs at Sass & Bide on leather and crisp cottons. Layered or simply worn against the skin, it seems to be the next move on in a more bold form of the lace hype.

RUFFLES

Ruffles came cascading down the runways in many shapes and forms. From romantic flounces in chiffon at Chloe and Dries Van Noten to more structured and sculptured voluminous shapes at Balenciaga which created a more dramatic “Flamenco” style.

FUTURISTIC

There was a definite shift towards a futuristic space-like trend for some designers. Incorporating metallic and high-tech fabrics in Star Trek-like silhouettes, colour-blocking taking on a 90s clubwear look from London and Tokyo at the time from Junya Watanabe. You could also spot alien like make-up, all of which created a back to the future zoom.

50 SHADES OF ORANGE
We mentioned orange being hot in our NY fashion week report. Across the globe orange has still been standing out as a key bright for next summer. From acidic orange to peach, pumpkin and rusty orange, all possible shades are creating a vibrant positive note to the season.

SWEATSHIRTS


The humble sweatshirt is still looking strong for next season. Designers interpret the item into sheer structured silhouettes at Stella McCartney to more Sloppy-Joe style at Ashish or embellished and decorated at Holly Fulton. This versatile item can be transformed into any look.

JAILBIRD STRIPES

Black and white jailbird stripes could not go un-noticed this season. It was a must-have amongst many hitlist designers. Translated into many forms from 60s mini dresses at Marc Jacobs, 80s paper-bag waisted trousers at Balmain, square boxy shape suits at Acne and Devastee to more feminine dresses and long flowing pleated skirts at Kors and Victor & Rolf.

SPORTSWEAR


Sportswear continues to be a big influence to many designers. Designers have created molded volume shapes using functional details like zippers and draw-strings and combining sporty fabrics such as airtex mesh and light weight performance nylons. In some cases a more luxurious attitude was mixed in using sequins in sporty shapes combined with sweatpants giving a 90s feel to the silhouettes.

80s ICONS AT JEAN PAUL GAULTIER

And last but not least, we couldn’t resist picking out Jean Paul Gaultier’s show, with this theatrical tribute to some very recognizable 80s music icons. We’ll leave you to guess who’s who!

Tamsin Cook

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25/01/2012

In Conversation With – Howitzweissbach

In Conversation with – Howitzweissbach

Eva Howitz and Frieder Weissbach are the inventive and intriguing fashion designers, who founded – together with their manager, Marcus Pester – Howitzweissbach, the young German label established in Leipzig.

Both the Howitzweissbach creative thinkers are strongly convinced of the importance of being able to go behind the garments, following all the production steps and grasping their ‘soul’. There is always a story, a concept behind their collections. Howitz and Weissbach’s unconventional and unique approach comes from a mix of regional traditions – all the products are realised in the Saxony area – and takes its inspiration mainly from art. Howitzweissbach pieces of clothing are based on quality and paid attention to details like the choice of patterns and fabrics or the use of French sewing, to give suits a pure and clean look, inside and out.

The brand doesn’t follow the trends and keeps aside the fashion industry to create its own style, recognizable thanks to an artistic and unusual taste, which communicates the founders’ values. The designers’ love for fashion and proximity to their audience made them feel the need of building up a second, affordable line named Freund (Friend), which “is not for everybody, it’s especially for friends”. Joining the online project Make your mess – the first experimental move of Howitzweissbach Freund online shop – people can buy a plain white piece and take part in a performance during which it will be splashed with colours. The result will be a one-of-a-kind item that reminds the works by the German contemporary artist Katharina Grosse, one of the members of the ‘Howitzweissbach own cosmos’.

Monica Lombardi – with special thanks to Matteo Cherubino & Davide Calafà 

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