The Blogazine

As Milan fashion week turned its spotlights off, and all eyes are on Paris, we still want to relish the brilliant “Made in Italy” style. Though it is not usually known as a hub for new talents – Italy like its designers traditional and old – this year, a couple of exciting young designers could be found on Milan’s runways. Here are three names everybody should write down for the years to come.

Arthur Arbesser: Before founding his own brand in 2012, the Milan based designer Arthur Arbesser has studied at Central Saint Martins and worked for other fashion brands in Milan. Arbesser’s design aesthetic is based on an eclectic mix of cultures and approaches to fashion. Arbesser, who grew up in Vienna, often mixes influences from Austrian culture with references and ideas coming from the world of art, most probably learned during his studies in London. For the A/W 2015 collection these approaches and references are expressed through an elaborate selection of intriguing patterns, which, combined with strong silhouettes which, clearly show his great knowledge of the design craft.

Paolo Errico: Paolo Errico is mostly interested in design from an innovative and sculptural point of view, as he is able to create garments through shaping techniques which focus on volume and balance. He aims to evoke emotions by combining high quality, functional and creative pieces. Errico’s design goals are reflected in the pieces – all created with the modern woman in mind – which succeed in keeping the balance between contemporary urban style and the practicality of everyday life.

Marianna Cimini‪: ‏The Milan based designer Marianna Cimini, sees her designs as a balance between modernity and femininity, fusing together pieces that are both contemporary and elegant. She unites sharp silhuettes with sportswear, looking for inspiration at familiar places – that range from the Mediterranean and her childhood growing up on the Amalfi Coast – when creating the patterns and colours and exploring her own, unique, design philosophy.

During the Fall season, black is usually in the lead with the guest play of jeweled tones. During the past week on the runways of Milan, there were, however, a few other colors that were taking over the field.

Red: Bright red or shades of burgundy worn from head to toe were seen at shows such as Pucci, Versace and Salvatore Ferragamo. In combination with a cape or long flowy sleeves, red elevated the looks to regal finesse.

Light pink: As a continuation of the pink trend from SS15, a lighter version vas presented at Prada, N°21 and Marni, each with an edgier structural style showcasing the importance of feminine power dressing.

Black, white and yellow: This color combination is no longer just a licorice treat: it could be seen in numerous variations on the runways of Jil Sander, Bottega Veneta as well as Roberto Cavalli. The yellow was in contrast with the established monochromatic look, adding a splash of whimsy to the sophistication of the black and white uniform.

It is well known that every season has its own shades and hues. It is also well known that, despite broad and largely overcome rules (such as the one that says white shouldn’t be worn after Labor Day), seasonal hues and shades change with each and every season. Looking at Milan’s busy runways, we have selected our favorite five for the next Autumn/Winter 2015.

CAMEL: Traditional choice for both men and women, camel is definitely considered an evergreen. John Varvatos made slim coats, the Sixties vibe made the rest.

GREY: If it’s not black nor white, it must be grey. Elegant and discreet, it’s the color to match with almost any other hue. The particular light shade Calvin Klein used for its suits, got a modern effect.

MIRTLE GREEN: Green is always good and fits almost everybody well. The shade chosen by Fendi, however, makes a little step forward. In terms of intensity, for example, it’s energetic without exceeding, thus avoiding to become boring after you wear it two times in a row. Armani, on the other hand, uses is together with black on a suede jacket.

RED: Fierce and positive, this color is the one related to Mars and its powers. The new Gucci Creative Director, Alessandro Michele, went for it in his very feminine collection. Although it is definitely not an easy one, it should be considered for a sweater or even a coat.

AUROMETALSAURUS: The name says it all: a kind of refined tonality, it could be one of the hits for the next season. We saw it applied to velvet at Zegna, as well as at Antonio Marras. It’s a good start.

As the shows in Milano have finally come to an end, it’s time to sum up everything we’ve seen. Here there are the highlights for the next Fall/Winter 2015-16 season.

SIXTIES: Fashion can sometimes get stuck in a particular (historic) direction, and this is the case of this very intense Sixties vibe we have been seeing everywhere for the past two seasons. By the way, the best example of this runway round, it the one shown by Boglioli – perfect in every single detail.

SKINNY SCARF: We must give credit where credit is due: Prada was the first one to introduce the tiny scarf trend, already seen in the brand’s Fall/Winter 2014-15 fashion show. A couple of months later, the accessory has become quite ubiquitous: Bottega Veneta made it a little bit shorter and mixed it with various colors.

POLO SWEATER: Although the other two highlights were definitely more common and already seen around, it seems that the polo sweater trend might flood the runqays quite soon. Rodolfo Paglialunga restored Jil Sander’s approach by introducing contemporary and vintage pieces.

OVERALL: Though it is not a very fresh trend, the overalls are one of those pieces we were used to seeing occasionally before it became, quite suddenly, one of the most recognizable elements. Alessandro Dell’Acqua made a denim version for his last N°21 collection – sporty and refined at the same time.

TURN UP: As we already said, there is not a fashion season without a trend created, almost, ex-novo from Mrs Prada. This time, Miuccia strikes again: the turn up – a usual style worn with longer pants – now comes in the form of coat and jacket sleeves, as seen on Prada’s runway.

Milano Moda Uomo, the as-per-usual delightfully exciting encounter with menswear fashion runways, is about to finish. The quick, sweet and exhausting Italian fashion week has offered plenty of interesting moments, here we have decided to focus on one of its elements: the most interesting fabrics for next Fall/Winter 2015.

VELVET: It was a big trend for womenswear, it seems to have been picked up also for men. The most elegant was the one of Ermenegildo Zegna: a ton-sur-ton suit which emphasizes their typical timeless vibe.

FUR: Opulent, often exaggerated, the fur is one of the main symbols of luxury. From Versace to Andrea Pompilio, most of Italian designers went for it. Marni’s designes won the crowds, due to its always impeccable signature – a mix of extravaganza and high craftsmanship.

LEATHER: As seen Neil Barrett’s runway, the leather appeared a true contemporary choice. The leather coat comes in total black and presents a slim, well-balanced silhouette – a must that can be worn all the way through spring.

PADDING: As most trends, padding comes right from the street. Versace matches it with a classy grey suit. The result? A touch of light – and heat – on a very serious look.

KNITWEAR: Wool is the main element of many winter looks, becoming ever more interesting for contemporary designers. Salvatore Ferragamo played with garments such as scarves and cardigans by making them maxi and extra comfy, as a different way to minimize the almost too strict ‘gentleman’ approach.

As the Milano Fashion Week turns off its spotlights after five full days of exhausting runways, we are finally able to present the main trends that will rule next year’s summer season. As many observers have noted, the most evident inspiration of Italian designers has been the past. In a moment of turmoil and insecurity, many brands have expressed a melancholic longing for a better time, a precise moment in the past when the Bel Paese reached its peak moment of glory.

From Gucci to Costume National, the rock’n’roll, hippie vibe reminiscent of the 70s style, conquered most of the shows. Gucci’s Frida Giannini proposed a collection in tune with “American Hustle” vibe, continuing along the line of produced for the movie itself, with circus jackets, total denim, scarves and sleek dresses as key elements of the collection. Ennio Capasa at Costume National, on the other hand, followed the path started last June with the brand’s menswear collection by paying a tribute to rock stars and their unique, unforgettable style: with suede as the fabric of choice and a powerful purple as the most prominent nuance.

A different historical reading was the one proposed by Prada, with a slow and sad, yet unbearably chic, woman taking over the catwalk. Prada’s S/S 2015 collection was, reportedly, the result of three years of research, where Miuccia explored antique fabrics, especially silk brocade, while the silhouettes were borrowed from the 60s and 70s, resulting in a dreamy and touching aesthetics, reminiscent of our granny’s ethereal wardrobe.

Speaking of colours, next season will be characterized by chromatic contrasts, as seen at Antonio Marras – whose collection was a love letter to artist Carol Rama – as well as by desaturated colour codes, as seen at Marni, who played with extreme purity, both in terms of shapes and colour palette, in the occasion of its 20th anniversary.