06/03/2014

Why Green has to be the New Black

In May 2006, the International Herald Tribune published an article by the legendary Suzy Menkes titled “Eco-friendly: Why green is the new black”. Almost 8 years later, the fashion industry has evolved a lot in embracing environmental sustainability. However, despite our better judgment, the so called fast fashion is still being overly consumed, and brands like H&M and Forever 21 produce collections which might be judged both in terms of ethics as well as sustainability.

And yet, the notion of sustainability is nothing new to the fashion world. In fact, ever since Franco Moschino sent his models down the runway with T-shirts saying “Stop Using Our Oceans as a W.C.” back in 1989, there has been an on-going debate about eco-friendly fashion. Since then, many high fashion brands have been presenting different kinds of sustainable choices in their production, such as the grand Giorgio Armani who incorporated hemp in his suits back in 1995. The topic is constantly being discussed (albeit, with limited success) and brands such as Stella McCartney and Edun have taken a major stand in showcasing the ability to combine eco-friendly fabrics with high fashion flair.

Martin Margiela, on the other hand, introduced a leather butcher’s apron repurposed into an evening gown back in 1988, starting the deconstructionist movement aimed at raising environmental awareness in fashion. In fact, his particular choices offer an interesting frame of reference when discussing the concept of McFashion: to re-use can mean staying green as well as chic. Last week, it was Moschino, again, adding fuel to the debate about McFashion industries, with its typically humorous flair. Models dressed in bright red and yellow clothes walked its runway, clearly referencing the fast food chain.

Nevertheless, we are now in March of 2014 and much still has to be done. Thus, it only seems fitting to present a new headline “Eco-friendly: Why green has to be the new black”. If we should rely on the individual consumer’s sensibility and awareness, it might not bring us anywhere. While design industry has done a lot in supporting eco-friendly brands, we still have to become fully aware that buying the often unsustainable fast-fashion might condition what we will face in the future.

Victoria Edman 
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28/02/2014

Style Suggestions: Pastels

Pastel hues and sherbert shades have crept their way in this season and these exhuberent tones are on trend and easy to wear. You dont have to go the whole hog but it is nice to pair pastels with pastels and add some neutral accesories and jewllery to complete a perfect outfit for any occasion.

Prada, Nike, Fendi, Stella McCartney, Dior, WeSC, Katie Rowland

Styling by Vanessa Cocchiaro 

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26/02/2014

Age and Style in Tim Walker’s The Granny Alphabet

They way people dress, usually influences the way they are perceived. In fact, even the perception of our age can to some extent be influenced by the clothes we put on in the morning. While wearing something drab and unflattering might hide one’s personality and create the illusion of an older appearance, we are less and less restricted by the age-appropriateness of the clothes we wear. The rules of who can wear what are becoming more and more unclear, just as the notion that there is an age limit to fashion.

Finally, the fashion world seems to have grabbed this trend and is being influenced by older generations, both in their search for timeless lines, quality materials and impeccable finishings, as well as by their “granny-chic” flair. Even though it would be naïve to think that fashion has left its search for novelty and eternal youth, the recent trends as well as the use of older women for ad campaigns by fashion houses such as Lanvin, can be interpreted as a positive change of course. It might just demonstrate the effect a bold personal style, regardless of one’s age, has on the development of today’s fashion zeitgeist: it isn’t about what you wear, but how you wear it.

On the other hand, this recent reevaluation of “granny-style” showcases the complexity of fashion industry, adding yet another layer to its already articulated dynamics. It might show that fashion is about having a sense of self, a stronger relationship with one’s personality, which translates into an inimitable style.

In fact, even the renowned photographer Tim Walker appears to be fascinated by the older age, and speaks about the way it brings back a childlike lucidity which allows for a clearer, more focused view on reality in his recently released book: “To retain a child’s eye when peering through the camera’s viewfinder is to see the world as half magic, half horror”. “The Granny Alphabet”, developed together with Kit Hesketh-Harvey, who wrote a series of gently humorous verses, and Lawrence Mynott, who created an illustrated dictionary of granny-style, is a “part photographic love letter to the elderly and part documentation of the dying breed of little old ladies who live down the lane”. “The Granny Alphabet”, published by Thames and Hudson, is a stylish and fashionable study on everyday life, which reaffirms the saying that style is eternal.

Victoria Edman – Images © Tim Walker and © Lawrence Mynott  
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06/02/2014

Pre-Fall 2014 Back to Boldness

When the new collections are shown on the runways, we look out for some key points which are strong trend indicators for the coming season. Silhouettes are one of them. With the pre-fall 2014 shows in full swing, we have been catching up with the new trends for next pre-fall 2014. A particular silhouette which has caught our eye so far is the architectural upper silhouette, with bold square voluminous angles which are formed in various ways combined with a tailored slimmer lower shape. The trends have lent towards a more sculptured silhouette the last few seasons anyway but what is updated this season is the wrapped and tied idea with a protruding back.


Designer Jonny Johansson at ACNE Studios has created some bold combinations with clean cut lines, molded and sculpted in new forms for the upper body, creating juxtaposed design lines.


At Thomas Tait, oversized shapes and extreme proportions set the scene in bold colours. New proportions for the biker jacket created a rather masculine feel to the style. Longer coats were cleverly cut to give angular shapes, re-shaping the female form and accentuating the back.

At MMM; Maison Martin Margiela, Renaissance inspired shapes were hinted at. Colours were tonal and subdued, as expected but the textures and forms cleverly made a bold distorted statement to the female form with the back clearly being a focus point.



Tamsin Cook – Image courtesy of Jonny Johansson for ACNE Studios, Thomas Tait and Maison Martin Margiela 
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08/10/2013

A Funny Thing Happened

During the last few seasons the world of fashion has rekindled the love for the old 80s flame. Humor has once again become part of the runway. Whether it’s in the form of ironic statements or whimsical prints in a pop art kind of way, fashion seems to have developed a higher sense of humor. The question is why is this happening?

When looking at the SS14 runway shows, one can note all kinds of different humoristic touches. At Ashish the Coca Cola brand was used in a way that puts product placement in a new light, and can be argued to put an ironic spin to consumers’ brand awareness in an Andy Warhol kind of way. Devastée and Fay put forth childlike prints in the form of scribble and cartoon print. The cartoon aspect – being used a lot during the past seasons – could perhaps be viewed as a paraphrase of nostalgia, fragments of the childhood that have materialized into clothing.

At Moschino humor and whimsy culminated in a modernized Alice in Wonderland tale. Whimsy could also be found at Kenzo where a reference to fishing created not only humoristic but also a political statement. The humorous side of fashion gives another take on apparel and can be said to create a balance to chic and minimalistic silhouettes as well as discuss and materialize the changes in the world. Through humor fashion has also proved to possess an ambiguity that reinforces the creativity and power of the industry. It keeps things interesting.

By simply viewing the upcoming season, the use of humor in fashion can also be claimed to be a way of creating a pastiche of society, culture and memories. Referencing all type of artist, be it Andy Warhol or Lewis Carroll, clearly stating that the fashion world is more than just a surface. However it is important to keep the balance in mind and not go overboard. A joke that is too obvious isn’t that funny.

Victoria Edman 
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09/07/2012

Met at Pitti 82: G-Star RAW

Met at Pitti 82: G-Star RAW

G-Star Raw is one of the companies bringing constant innovation to the world of denim, and for our second Pitti meeting, The Blogazine attended a special event in the historical Sala Ottagonale inside the Fortezza da Basso in Florence. We found out about new research, heard the story behind the collection and ran into the head designer Pierre Morisset.

High ceiling and rough brick walls characterized the environment where the G-Star Raw S/S13 collection was presented during Pitti Uomo 82. The collection offered many different parts, all connected through the one material that the company is truly passionate about; denim.

“It’s a beautiful fabric of infinite possibilities,” said Pierre Morisset. When researching the history of denim, G-Star revealed that this versatile fabric dates back much longer than many other stories tell us. This toile de chine was worn by Chinese sailors already 300 years back, and infact G-Star Raw had let the slightly Asian inspiration shine through in detailing and cuts for a part of the collection. Another important and appreciated part of the men’s collection is the Red Listing, a tribute to the vintage denim. The pieces, which are woven on vintage looms, have a specific characteristic and slender unevenness in the structure of the fabric. The disparity continues in the colours, that due to several dying processes ranges from green to the classic denim blue.

When speaking of the collection, and of the part of G-Star Elwood, the conversation turned towards the G-Star Atelier. “The Atelier is five to ten years ahead in their thinking, everything we do has a starting point there,” The Blogazine was told. After being guided through the pieces developed from the atelier, we are now even more intrigued to learn more about the place where denim is an obsession and the ideas lead to endless possibilities.

Lisa Olsson Hjerpe

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24/05/2012

Retro – Recycling or Innovation?

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Retro – Recycling or Innovation?

Retro and vintage are not unusual expressions when talking about design, fashion and style. The interest for the 20th century is an obvious reference and affecting point in the current fashion, as well as styles and outfits are copied right off through a mix of vintage clothing and retro trend pieces. While innovation, new thinking and uniqueness normally define fashion, it’s also a part of historic continuity where a constant progress also includes the revival of elements. Discussed from a historical angle, the reinterpretation of styles could be taken all the way back to when the Romans ‘reinvented’ the ancient Greek dress.


Lately the 30’s and the 60’s have been strong influencers in fashion. TV-series like Mad Men and Pan Am create nostalgia and somehow the decades are looked at as a ‘simpler time’, creating a window of escape for the audience. Even though not every woman will wear figure-hugging dresses and the men’s fashion might not become that much more slim, the inspiration is definitely noticeable.

The Röhsska Museet, the only museum dedicated solely for design and craftsmanship in Sweden, is hosting a vintage exhibition to specifically talk about how today’s trends are inspired by the 30’s and 60’s and how the era is affecting us. With a backdrop trailer from the film W.E. (about Wallis Simpson) the exhibition will together with fashion and interior design pieces also show exclusive vintage cars, borrowed to the museum from private collectors.

Even though both vintage clothing and the inspiration from the history are well accepted, the fashion industry is all about novelties. Some see retro trends as “old news by new designers” while others mean that ‘new’ should be seen as more than complete innovation. As a trend, retro is caught up in contemporary debates and becomes more than a static expression. Instead of looking at it as pure recycling, it might be the different ways of using ‘retro’ that become the innovation.

The Cars, Fashion and Design exhibition will be displayed at Röhsska Museum in Gothenburg, Sweden, between 26th of May and 9th of September 2012.

Lisa Olsson Hjerpe – Image courtesy of style.com

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23/02/2012

4 Questions To – Andrea Pompilio

4 Questions To – Andrea Pompilio

We met Andrea Pompilio, the forward-looking fashion designer who – after having worked for Prada, YSL and Calvin Klein – founded his new independent line called “A”. We asked four well-chosen questions to this one of the most creative talents of the Italian fashion panorama, who is able to mix traditional textiles, style and tailoring along with “crazy” colours and shapes.

With an open and friendly chat, we entered the vibrant world of Pompilio, which came forward first during the designer’s childhood: “When I was very very young my grandmother had a couple of boutiques in Pesaro and I used to spend most of my time there, playing among clothes and fabrics with my cousins. I loved that, and since I was 8 years old it was clear for me that I wanted to be a fashion designer”.

Interview Monica Lombardi – Video Renzo O. Angelillo

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20/02/2012

How To Pack For F/W

How To Pack For F/W

The hoopla and fanfare of the fashion weeks is just about to kick off the frenzy for another new season. As a special treat to mark the occasion, online editor of French fashion bible Purple, Paula Goldstein, is joining The Blogazine crew to share some inside views from the world of fashion. First up, she shares some primo trade secrets for packing smartly for the streets, runway sidelines and shindigs in style.

F/W’s twice-a-year traveling circus means for those working in it a time of excitement, lack of sleep, lack of food and lack of time to do and see it all. And it’s almost upon us once again. Packing for a month of being photographed and looked at, partying and being judged on chicness whilst hungover is a stressful process, and has many pitfalls. I decided to ask some friends of mine who are experts in it – and impart a little of my own advice too – on how to pack for F/W’s. Which of course rings true also to any traveling situation, just with slightly more dramatic extremes.

My number one tip, “never pack drunk,” should always be taken seriously, or you will surely live to regret it. I once packed for a trip with one of my best friends, and we may have accidentally drunk two bottles of wine, dressed up in everything I owned, tried to fit ourselves into the suitcase like contortionists, and had an impromptu photo-shoot. This was truly wonderful until I arrived in Paris for 5 nights on a freezing February morning to discover I had packed 4 bikinis, gold Ashish wedges I have never been able to walk in, a feather boa and a purple felt hat. And not much else.

My darling friend, a successful model Ben Grimes imparts her packing advice: “I’ve found that the best method of packing for fashion week is to pack 3 bags. One for NY, one for Milan and one for Paris. I don’t pack a bag for London as the bulk of my clothes are there. I also pack a pair of flats for each pair of heels, and make sure I have comfort clothes for when I’m not on show. Also, always scour your hotel room for missing shoes; every season I come back with an incomplete pair after repacking in a rush!“

Photographer and ex-model Candice Lake shares her tips: “After 13 years of virtually living out of a suitcase, I am still a horrendous packer! I pack too much and only ever wear half of the pieces I pack. I have however come up with a few fail safe ways to avoid the excess baggage costs:

1) Buy yourself mini tubes and bottles for pretty much every cosmetic product you use. There is no point on lugging your one litre value pack shampoo across the world. I get my favourite brand to send me all my favourite products in mini sizes and I always ask the hairdresser for mini sized shampoos. This cuts down the weight and the space in your luggage… leaving more room for clothes.

2)Plan your outfits. This is something I never do. I am actually flying to NY for the fashion week tomorrow and I haven’t yet packed or planned any outfits. This is silly, as I will inevitably take 7 pairs of shoes, of which I will only wear 3, and way too many coats and inappropriate dresses. I’d say to plan your outfits around your key pieces and don’t get tempted to pack every dress you own.

3) Always wear something incredibly warm on the plane. I never leave to the airport without my cashmere wrap and my Givenchy leather/alpaca jacket, which is so warm and comfortable, I could wear it to bed.

4) Never forget to take power converters.

Another friend who knows well the importance of packing, is Kerry McKenna, Charlotte Olympia’s right hand girl. She explains how there’s a shoe for every occasion in her collection: “For me fashion week kicks of with a flight to NY. A pair of flats act as my comfortable airport shoes. For long NY days of shows and sales appointments I wear my most comfortable classic high heels, so I opt for my sexy red satin Charlotte Olympia Paloma’s. Back in London I usually choose comfortable boots to save my feet for the fashion shows and the general running around. “

Paula Goldstein – Images courtesy of Adolf Conrad & ThingsOrganizedNeatly.tumblr.com

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15/02/2012

Fashion Bloggers: Love Them Or Hate them

Fashion Bloggers: Love Them Or Hate them

We’re in the midst of fashion’s most manic moment: the fashion weeks. Models, celebrities, photographers, editors, buyers and everyone else with an invite, are running from show to show, from front row to front row. And so we have the fashion bloggers, the latest conscripts to the “front row mafia”. Olivier Zahm, editor-in-chief of Purple, made waves on a YouTube video in 2010 by openly expressing his aversion towards fashion bloggers. The same year, world-renowned purveyor of fashion Luisa Via Roma organized Firenze4ever, the first fashion blogger event ever. So whether you hate them or you love them, you have to admit that fashion bloggers have gained traction over the past few years and are an integral part of the industry today. But how have fashion bloggers actually changed the industry, and exactly what is it that made them earn this power? And what does this newly acquired position of fashion bloggers do for the future of fashion business?

The fact that we live in a digital world has most likely helped the rise of the bloggers; they market themselves on a platform where today’s generation is more present than ever. The CEO of Luisa Via Roma said in an interview that “they all speak the same language; they speak the language of fashion and they speak the language of Internet.” Still, there must be a more understandable reason for the almost revolutionary change that has occurred, beside the bloggers’ mere interest in media and fashion. A moment that possibly boosted their status in the industry the most was when Dolce & Gabbana in September 2009 placed four fashion bloggers and street style photographers on the front row together with well recognized and celebrated people of the international press and the fashion industry. It lies in the nature of this industry to be trend sensitive and forward-looking, and perhaps all that was needed was for someone to dare to take the step and open up for something unfamiliar, to make the rest of the industry follow.

There are surely several positive aspects on what the business is experiencing, and the fashion bloggers can possibly function both as a boost for PR as well as “real” workforce for the industry. The question that lies ahead, though, is what the effect will be in the long run, and the topic has indeed been well discussed, written and, yes, even blogged about over and over the last few seasons. If fashion bloggers are the voices of the future, will already acknowledged industry people lose power and have less of a say? Or is it possible to find a balance where the fashion bloggers occupy a sweet spot? With mass digitalization and an ascendant social media trend, we believe that the fashion industry is looking towards an rich, rich future, and that this blogger “phenomenon” is just the tip of the iceberg.

Lisa Olsson Hjerpe – Video Courtesy of Neulandherzer.com.

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