12/08/2014

Copenhagen Fashion Week SS/2015 | Part Two

The fashion industry takes a lot of heat: mainly it’s accusations of being too trivial to actually matter in the real world. When attending fashion weeks you realize just how vast this “trivial” matter is. As you would expect, it all started in Paris. The founder of Haute Couture, Charles Frederick Worth invited socialites to view a selection of his pre-made original designs shown on women walking around simple runway. It was a novelty at the time, but it proved to be a great success and soon other designers followed. Thus, the Parisian Fashion Week was born. During the second World War, the occupation of France forced the world to look to other countries for a fashionable kick. Eleanor Lambert took advantage of it and shifted the press’ attention to New York and their local designers, calling it the Press Week. Giovanni Battista Giorgini was inspired by Lambert’s move and brought the press to Palazzo Pitti in Florence so that Italian designers could showcase their craftsmanship to the world. As Italian fashion grew in popularity the city of Florence couldn’t keep up and so the event was moved to Milan. In 1975 Milan presented its first Settimana Della Moda. A few years later London fashion week followed, completing the big four.

This year’s Copenhagen Fashion Week made clear what a big platform the fashion world actually is. As a discipline, fashion can be a way of communicating the simplest yet most intricate matters and fashion week poses as the elevated media for this subtle form of communication. Fashion weeks don’t simply serve as a way of showing the trends for upcoming seasons. Rather, it is a way of discussing topics, promoting talent and innnovation, as well as marketing one’s country via a highly acclaimed channel. At Copenhagen Fashion Week it was made clear how important sustainability is to the industry and the world, while Eva Kruse pointed out how fashion week brings jobs and opportunities to the table. Designers of Copenhagen were also given the opportunity to master their creative flow into a spectacular show, which Henrik Vibskov certainly showed to be a master of, with his fantastic watershow. The simple fact of putting oneself on the map might be enough of a reasons why fashion weeks were established in the first place and are still emerging all over the world, from Toronto to Copenhagen, all the way to Shanghai. In fact, fashion weeks have proved to be an excellent way to enhance the reputation of local designers and promote local creative industries in an ever more globalized world.

Victoria Edman 
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08/08/2014

Copenhagen Fashion Week SS/2015 | Part One

While most are still enjoying the summer of 2014 the fashion industry is looking ahead to the next spring/summer season.

The Concepts: If we were to describe Copenhagen Fashion Week with only two words, it would most definitely be sporty chic. The influence of athletic attire is not something new, but at the Danish fashion scene it became elevated through materials and their different combinations. It was most clear at Ganni who took classic sporty pieces from the tennis court and reinterpreted them into fashionable staples. Lovechild 1979, on the other hand, also introduced luxurious active wear with a feminine touch. Silky dresses and skirts reminiscent of the 1930s were combined with caps and tennis shoes creating an interesting juxtaposition. There was also a great deal of tailored elegance to be spotted at many of the runway shows. At Mark Kenly Domino Tan classic feminine silhouettes running down the runway brought to mind both the works of Oscar de la Renta, as well as those by Raf Simons for Dior, while managing to keep his own originality. Voluminous dresses and tailored sportier pieces were shown, creating an interesting story that you never wanted to end.

The Prints: There weren’t any real color codes for the season. Rather, all colors were allowed with a preference towards basics, such as navy and beige: we are in Scandinavia after all. The interesting take came from different prints, a navy dogtooth as well as floral prints at Baum und Pferdgarten and brush strokes at Freya Dalsjø. Interesting prints that preferably should be worn both on top and bottom to create a harmonious look that catches the eye.

The Materials: Echoing the trend of transparency both Stine Ladefoged and Maikel Tawadros used mesh netting as an overlay giving the transparency an edgier touch and also saluting the cut out trend without being too obvious. It was used on both skirts tops and dresses as the prefect partner in crime to otherwise simplistic silhouettes.

The Accessories: The flat shoes are continuing their reign, as at almost all the fashion shows you could spot a white sneaker or tennis shoe perfecting the outfit. Creating contrast and supplying comfort, the white sneaker has the light easiness of spring while still supplying the sporty comfort that appeared to be the essence of Copenhagen SS15. As a counterpoint, the interesting geometrical jewelry at Veronica B. Vallenes added to the simplistic minimalism giving the look a desirable fashionista twist. Circles of silver and gold glittered in the spotlights, featured both on necklaces and as hairpins, creating a futuristic feel for these minimalistic attires.

The Techniques: Pleats have the unique quality of being both edgy and romantic. This was showcased at Designers Remix whose subtly colored finale pieces were flowy and romantic. The pleats were featured all over Copenhagen in all kind of materials and were a definite favorite among designers. Another over-used technique was the fringe. Fringes could be seen everywhere from shoes to bags and, of course, included in garments seen at By Malene Birger. The movement of the fringe creates a playful dynamic that turns even a simple design classic into a piece of the moment.

Victoria Edman 
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24/09/2013

Cut It Out

In the midst of fashion weeks from well-established fashion cities it’s easy to let slip the growing fashionable stance of other cities. For some time now, Copenhagen has been a trend hub for both sleek minimalism as well as for innovative and artistic prêt-à-porter. During Copenhagen Fashion Week SS14 “cut outs” was among the strongest trends that was spotted and interpreted through the Danish runways.

At Stine Ladefoged a collection dedicated to the futuristic cut outs was presented giving takes on not only cut out knitwear but also the classic black and white combinations. A simplistic black skirt was in combination with a cut out black top updating a timeless classic. Nevertheless the innovative approach, there was still an implicit Pierre Cardin reference to be found for the trained eye.

The cut out trend was presented also for the male audience. Both Barbara í Gongini and Designers’ Nest presented male trousers, both cut out by the knee, bringing the mind to extremely distressed jeans as seen on street style royals, but in a more urban Beau Brummell way.


Designers’ Nest was also giving a Danish demonstration of the sheer overlay for cut outs, a trend seen on the SS14 runways around the fashion world. Here the trend was influenced by the 90s sporty chic. The designer transformed the delicate fabric into a sweatshirt-like shape and by styling it with a baseball cap made it right for the upcoming spring. At Designers Remix the cut out was barely noticeable, letting just a sliver of skin peek out allowing the design to still give an element of surprise to the beholder.

In retrospect one can argue that the cut out trend has been around for several seasons due to its ability to give sensuality to garments and modernize already used trends. An unexpected and somewhat thrilling twist is bestowed upon them. However, in the rather exhibitionistic society we live today, perhaps the twist lies in the part that remains covered.

Victoria Edman 
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04/02/2013

COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK AW13

COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK AW13

Last week’s fashion happenings took place in the north and The Blogazine went from Stockholm to Copenhagen and crowded with the other 60 000 guests dressed to shield from the January cold.

Despite the large differencies in collections and style, there were some trends, from colours to details and techniques, that was shown repeatedly. Just like in the pre-season collections, the emerald felt somewhat like a key colour on the somber palette. Cut-outs, geometric shapes and graphic prints were other apparent elements, defining the simple silhouettes and often very wearable collections.

Last year’s opening act, Freya Dalsjø showed another confident collection for Autumn/Winter 2013 and had collaborated with Kopenhagen Fur, unexpectedly mixing this debated material with neoprene. In knits, we watched Gaia’s simple yet statuesque silhouettes, rich colour palette and mix between large and heavy to the finest loops. Vivienne Westwood, old in the game but new among the shows on the CPHFW schedule, was one of the highlights for the Danes with guests.

Another established designer celebrated her 10 years anniversary by throwing a real play: at the Royal Theatre, among crystal chandeliers and champagne, opera glasses and a personal letter from the designer in our hands, the By Marlene Birger show was one big celebration. Starting out rather expected, she ended with a ‘grand final’ of statement pieces.


Expectations, even though in another sense, was also the subject for the young designer Stine Riis. Having won the H&M Design Award 2012 as well as collaborating with the Italian high-end store Luisa Via Roma, no one expected less one year later. She delivered a put-together collection with a colour palette in harmony with both the inspiration and the season, confirming the standing point of her brand R II S. “The fall season certainly is my comfort zone and with this collection I feel that it all came together”, the designer told The Blogazine after the show. On the menswear side, Han Kjøbenhavn had gattered every cool kid in town in an old school gym hall and presented a complete men’s wardrobe. The collection managed to stay whole, even though showing a range of outfits from lazy Sunday’s to more dressed up occasions.

During CPH fashion week several buyer’s fairs attract the international audience, and as a growing segment of the business, a whole area was dedicated to that fashion that we don’t always pay much attention to: children’s wear. To widen the views, The Blogazine paid a visit to the kid’s area and attended the Noa Noa Miniature show, where we found ourselves in a fairyworld of smiles and joy.

On a 45-show schedule there are a lot that one could bring up to light: the Desingers’ Nest Award (rewarding especially skillful design students) collaborating with Honest by, the new model regulations and another 2 600 brands attending northern Europe’s largest fashion festival, to name but a few. Scandinavia continues to contribute with an interesting point of view, different from what we might see at the upcoming weeks in London, Paris and Milan.

Lisa Olsson Hjerpe – Image courtesy of Copenhagen Fashion Week®

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28/08/2012

Scandinavian Fashion Battle

Scandinavian Fashion Battle

Beautiful shows, extravagant parties, exhibitions and events – fashion weeks bring the glitz to the industry and everyone is fighting for their share of the publicity cake. Scandinavia’s two largest fashion cities, Copenhagen and Stockholm, both gain attention internationally, but the approach to the fashion week differs. Copenhagen just finished its turn a couple of weeks ago, while Stockholm is just entering its second, and final, fashion week with Mercedes-Benz Stockholm edition. Which is the right way to go, and – who is the customer to please?


With over 2 700 brands represented, Copenhagen Fashion Week can count themselves as the second largest fashion city after Paris, if one solely measures it on the number of brands. By creating an all-in-one week, where the designer runway shows and four competing trade fairs are getting along and are sharing the attention of press and buyers, the biannual fashion week in Copenhagen surely is Scandinavia’s largest fashion gathering. Though, even if Stockholm’s fashion events might be minor to numbers, the city isn’t far after when it comes to publicity for its fashion scene. Stockholm has become famous for its sleek design aesthetics, recognizable all around the world.

That Stockholm doesn’t reach the same numbers of attending brands, buyers and press in one single event, might be the fact that Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Stockholm has just started, just over a week after the Stockholm Fashion Week ended. Add a special week for retailer collections, and Stockholm is counting six fashion weeks per year, in comparison with most cities doing only two. Which is the right or wrong way of carrying out fashion weeks and events might be up to the individual stakeholder to decide, or the amount of actual business carried out, but it remains to ponder if the separate weeks are a strategy of dividing the scene into more manageable blocks, or is it a sign of organizations not being able to collaborate? “We’re proud of being based and showing in Stockholm, but it is for sure confusing that Stockholm chooses to organize multiple fashion weeks. Not only for the press and buyers coming from abroad, but for the own market as well,” said two designers that The Blogazine spoke to.


Copenhagen’s well organized and collaborative intense one-week, or Stockholm’s separated events arranged by different organizations with slightly different focuses; if the ending point is all about business, who gains the most at the end of the day? The buyers who are getting it all-in-one or the brands sharing the time and space? Or is the most important thing to bring attention to the cities and their fashion as a whole? Whichever is right and whoever wins the battle of numbers, both cities are bringing a large amount of publicity to the growing Scandinavian fashion. This week, The Blogazine is following the runway in Stockholm while preparing for a month of nothing but fashion. September is almost here.

Lisa Olsson Hjerpe

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10/08/2012

Copenhagen FW Day 2: Scandinavian Promises

Copenhagen FW Day 2: Scandinavian Promises

Everyday wear to detailed pearl embroideries, joyful colour dashes to super simplicity – day number two at Copenhagen Fashion Week offered contrasts. Always within the format of the Scandinavian vision but where the ‘One-To-Watch’, Anne Sofie Madsen, was the one who invited to dance on the international floor, proving that the time spent working for John Galliano & Alexander McQueen was not a waste.


Noa Noa was neither a surprise, nor a disappointment. In Vision’s beautiful show venue they brought out fresh, simple and natural models dressed in what the brand does best – everyday wear. Having developed into a brand pleasing a chic, younger audience as well as a confident woman who knows her choices, Noa Noa’s S/S 2013 collection gave it all. Comfortable and loose fitted in a balanced mix between detailing, patterns and uncomplicated colours, topping off the look with masculine shoes. As expected, the contrast to next attending at Anne Sofie Madsen’s show was big. One year after being the opening act of Copenhagen Fashion Week, Madsen was back at the official show venue. If we yesterday were looking for someone to push the boundaries, this was the show, today. A faded poster of various deserted holiday paradises – melted ice creams, candy crystals – those are the designer’s own words about the collection.

“This collection has been a great challenge; we have worked with much more detailed and really small scale embroideries, and we have tried to change the look from previous seasons a little bit,” Madsen told The Blogazine when we met backstage few minutes after the show. When talking about the brand’s international presence, the designer mentioned the previous London shows, the upcoming show in Milan and also revealed that she will do a show in New York this year. “We’re really starting to spread around! I’m really happy about showing in Copenhagen and I think I will always do one show here, but it’s important for me to get out and around!”

Two other designers who wanted to spread out and try the ground on new markets were Petter Hollström and Gorjan Lauseger, behind the Stockholm based brand Odeur. Yesterday evening in Copenhagen they showed a collection in all simplicity. The Blogazine met both designers after the shows to get the story behind, and to pick their brains about the future. “When starting to work on this collection, we were in the discussion about what our inspiration always is, the stories, and worlds, we build up around a collection. We really felt a need of going back to the essence of what we like; which shapes and silhouettes, materials, and just really wanted it as simple as possible. There’s a reason why the collection is called Plain!”

About why after three shows at Stockholm Fashion Week they chose to come to Copenhagen they said, “It’s both time and fun to show for a new audience and try out a new market. It’s a part of growing and it’s a part of having a goal. Also, we worked with a lot of Danish people for this season so in one way it wasn’t a choice, it just came natural to come here.” The future for Odeur holds further expansion. “We are working on new projects and new products; shoes, leather accessories and complete silhouettes. We want to be able to show what the brand is breathing. Actually we are looking for locations for our first concept store which we hope to open within a near future!”

The colours and the variety in show came first from Peter Jensen and later in the evening, DAY Birger et Mikkelsen. Jensen showed preppy looks where the few black outfits got forgotten and lost fast among the joyful colours. DAY showed just as many outfits in complete variety that one could expect out of the Danish family company. Breaking down the regular runway, the brand had instead chosen a well rehearsed choreography for the show, creating a live show room of mannequins, bringing out look, after look, after look, giving the audience time and thoughts of the complete collection.

Lisa Olsson Hjerpe – Image courtesy of COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK®

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09/08/2012

Copenhagen Fashion Week: Democratic Design

Copenhagen Fashion Week: Democratic Design

Scandinavian fashion has since long been on The Blogazine’s radar, and yesterday we went to Denmark for the inaugural of Copenhagen Fashion Week. Together with the three fairs, which will also take place during the week, the audience in Copenhagen can go from commercial looks to designers that are pushing the boundaries. Though, Scandinavian fashion might rather be known for being ‘democratic’ than avant-garde. During our first day of shows we saw adaptable collections of fine Scandinavian design and ended our day on a rooftop in the meatpacking district of Copenhagen.


The honours of doing the official opening show was given to Freya Dalsjö, the designer hailing from the Antwerp Royal Academy of Fine Arts and known for uniting fashion with art. The models were walking the runway to the rhythm of a heavy beat and in company of an army, a video projected to the backdrop. The powerful yet simple looks draw attention to military shapes in both sun visors and garments, and presented the attention to details in the cuts and concord of colours. From Freya Dalsjö’s Scandinavian commanding simplicity, to Stine Ladefoged‘s detailed and playful knits. The work between heavy and fine gauges was creating interesting silhouettes, shaping and volume.

From two fairly powerful shows to the most innocent one of the day; YDE. With the show being held outside in a beautiful courtyard and light, romantic and sensual yet glamorous, looks in colours going from soft yellow and green to strong pinks and lilac, the inspiration wasn’t to be mistaken. “I was very much inspired by flowers and wanted to create a sort of Garden of Eden,” the designer Ole Yde told the Blogazine after the show. YDE makes, beside the regular prêt-à-porter collections, also custom made pieces. “I have to emphasize that what we do is not haute couture, it’s something completely different. We create one of a kind pieces for special customers, but it can be anything from a day dress to evening wear, the important is that we make them feel good and comfortable.”


From the light and glamour, back to a dark collection at David Andersen. Both the men’s and women’s collections were carried out on the runway, and the similarities in the shapes in between were present. Tailcoat cuts, layers and material mixes presented in clean silhouettes where a little sequins, shimmer and sparks brought a pleasant life to the otherwise dark collection. The evening’s crowd pleaser came in Wackerhaus, who filled the house to the brim and presented an astonishing collection where the ‘wearability’ went from day to evening. Despite a long day behind us, we couldn’t miss the Henrik Vibskov show, which was a performance of its own, and where the graphic prints were carried out by models whose ebony skin colour brought an effective contrast to the vivid colours.

For the evening’s final stop, The Blogazine went to the meatpacking district and Soho House rooftop for Hubert‘s show with a live musical performance and models in slow motion. A collection where all the impressions of the day came together and confirmed the Scandinavian S/S 13.


Lisa Olsson Hjerpe – Image courtesy of COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK®.

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