24/02/2015

London Fashion Week: Three Dashing Trends

“Go where we may, rest where we will, Eternal London haunts us still.”, is a quote borrowed from Thomas Moore that seems fitting for days following London Fashion Week. Below are some of the high points caught on the city’s runways that will probably ‘haunt’ us for the upcoming year.

Flashbacks: Walking down the memory lane is an important framework for fashion in any era, as it moves from point A to B. Several of the designers presented collections reminiscent of past decades, yet echoing the zeitgeist of 2015. At Jonathan Saunders, 1960s mod and an excellent mix of patterns was displayed. Temperley London proved a master at the glamour era of the 1970s. Long flowy dresses, kaftans and coats in sequins and tribal patterns brought comfortable elegance, as feminine pieces were updated with a dash of masculinity, in a perfect balance between his and hers. Vivienne Westwood Red Label showed, on the other hand, that the 1980s power dressing can still be relevant today, even without looking too much like an extra from Working Girl.

Ruffled Feathers: Mary Katrantzou added a flamenco-style ruffle to the bottom of many of her skirts. It was a frill that might seem trivial, but that made the look more voluminous and in control: a sort of a power dress for the 21st century. A mini version of this skirt could be found at Simone Rocha, but with the change of material with something a bit more regal and English.

Fringe Affair: At Issa, the fringe became part of several looks creating an interesting juxtaposition of old and new. It added flair to coats and movement to formfitting dresses without giving up on urban elegance. Tom Ford used the layered fringe effect in both light and dark dresses mimicking a modern take on the Western-style. Even though the fringe is no stranger to the runways, both Issa and Tom Ford added playfulness to the mix keeping the pieces alive.

Victoria Edman 
23/02/2015

Style Suggestions: Sports Inspired

Sports proved to be the big theme this season, with the upgrade of tracksuit pants leading the runways. What was once a humble sports attire is now getting a stylish makeover and is worn outside of gyms.

Jacket: Saint Laurent, T-shirt: President’s, Backpack: Freitag, Shoes: Acne

Styling by Vanessa Cocchiaro 

23/02/2015

Designs of the Year 2015

For the eighth year in a row, the Design Museum in London has revealed 76 projects for its “Designs of the Year” award. From architecture to digital design, the projects included range from socially responsible, environmental systems like “The Ocean Cleanup” or “Air-Purifying Billboard” to monumental buildings such as Frank Ghery’s Foundation Louis Vuitton or Herzog & de Meuron’s gymnasium in Brazil. Divided into 6 disciplinary categories – architecture, digital, fashion, graphics, transport and product – the shortlisted projects were chosen by the Design Museum’s team among 200 nominations put forward by industry experts. Commenting on the breadth of the award and its accompanying exhibition, the curator Gemma Curtin explains: “We want to show the whole spectrum. For every huge designer they started off as a smaller, new person on the block with a great idea or a new technique or vision. I think when we whittled down these selections to what we have in the exhibition, it was to give an inspiring and innovative showcase of design.”

Perhaps as any other award, Designs of the Year is known for its controversial choices which, in the past, divided both critics and professionals. Most notably, last year’s overall winner, Zaha Hadid’s Heydar Aliyev Center in Baku, Azerbaijan, was widely criticized for its reluctance to engage with the context within which it was commissioned, designed, built and is now used. Awarding the top prize to Hadid meant that Designs of the Year had somewhat departed from its previous dedication to ‘design for the greater good’. As Patrick Burgoyne wrote in his review of the last year’s awards, “Briefing for the nominees was always somewhat, er, brief with an admirable degree of trust bestowed on nominators to come up with appropriate suggestions. […] Whether by accident or (sorry) design, it has carved out a position for itself with successive winners rooted in social causes or design for the public good. […] The emphasis was on the aspirational: design as we may like it to be rather than as it is for the majority of practitioners.”

Read through this lens, it is easy to understand why Designs of the Year often brings together such diametrically oposed projects. To emphasise this eclectic approach, Curtin has decided to arrange this year’s selection around loose themes in order to reflect the way these projects would be perceived in everyday life – where each element of the artificial landscape shapes relations and connections to other objects that surround it. “I think there are actually great similarities between some projects in their intent, if not in what they are trying to do. Obviously a magazine that comes out twice a year is very different to a piece of architecture that may have taken ten years from idea to finished building. But, I think that some of the processes, some of the intentions, some of the desires, unify these projects”, Curtin says. In fact, this curatorial choice is a step forward in reflecting how design is experienced today. Nevertheless, it poses a question as to how such a juxtaposition might contribute to the understanding of meaning, context and significance of each of the selected projects. In fact, can we even speak of a design of the year today?

Rujana Rebernjak – Images courtesy of the Design Museum 
20/02/2015

New York Fashion Week: Four Upcoming Designers

New York Fashion Week has officially turned off its spotlights and sent all the greedy style-hoarders home. Reflecting on the week’s hottest highlights, here is our selection of four bright new stars.

Sally LaPointe, born in Massachusetts and now based in New York, is a name to remember. The young designer already counts celebrities such as Katy Perry, Kim Kardashian and Emily Blunt among her fans, as she made a name for herself with a minimalist aesthetic and distinct cuts. Her collections are both designed and produced in New York, which contributes to make them modern on another level, giving locally produced pieces a new meaning. Her latest collection proposes well-designed pieces for the woman of today, with the purpose of making her look both edgy and chic.

Rosie Assoulin began her design career at the age of thirteen, experimenting with her grandmother’s sewing machine and exploring different patterns, textures and styles. Several years later, after a brief time at Fashion Institute of Technology and working under childhood idols such as Oscar de la Renta and Alber Elbaz, she has become one of New York’s most talked about young designers. She developed her design expression into a mix of what can be best described as ‘evening meets everyday’. In tune with trends seen this year, this approach is a reflection on the postmodern society and the ever-changing definitions and identities of our daily lives. This combination results in feminine, wearable and fresh pieces that speak to a wide range of modern women.

Creatures of the Wind was founded in 2008, by Shane Gabier and Christopher Peters. Their first collection was born in Chicago, but New York is now the home of both the brand’s production and distribution. Their aim is to combine influences from subcultures, mythological themes, and youth culture. Their A/W 2015 collection is as strong as previous ones, as they mix traditional pieces with more playful details, such as colourful patterns and interesting cuts.

Daniel Silverstain, is an Israeli designer, now based in New York, who works with the aim of uniting fashion, art and architecture in his designs. Silverstain’s pieces come from a futuristic point of view where innovation and minimalism are essential. He explores high-tech materials and uses them to create unique shapes and finishes. The combination of industrialism, innovative materials and creating pieces that are comfortable and made for being worn feels right in time, and so does his latest collection. The metallic color palette and simplified shapes are reflect his design philosophy, as it connects art to its neighboring disciplines.

Hanna Cronsjö 
19/02/2015

Faking It: Originals, Copies, and Counterfeits at FIT Museum

At the beginning of century, fashion was considered as an elite world, a small niche only open for the lucky few. Back then, plagiarism was taken very seriously, not that today is not, yet with the growth of fast fashion the boundaries of authenticity are becoming weaker. Faking It: Originals, Copies, and Counterfeits aims to investigate the dynamic behind this process of creation, authenticity and violation of creative rights. An exhibition hosted by FIT in New York City, traces crucial moments in history of fashion and their relationship to the process of copying.

From the comparison of an original 1966 suit by Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel to its perfect reproduction, the show underlines the thin line between what is legal and what is not. Madeleine Vionnet, on the other hand, tried different initiatives to stop the production knock off her designs; she even marked her label with a thumbprint to authenticate each creation she produced. Phenomena like the 1947 Christian Dior collection became so viral that everyone wanted such a piece of clothing, resulting in a big amount of unauthorized copies being sold all around the planet.

Structured around comparison and a specific time path, Faking it: Originals, Copies and Counterfeits brings to life and sheds historical perspective on one of fashion’s most urgent issues today. The exhibition will remain on show through April 25th 2015.

Francesca Crippa – Images courtesy of FIT 
19/02/2015

Daily Tips: Collecting Obsessions

When last Spring Martino Gamper set up his vision of design as a ‘state of mind’ at the Serpentine Sackler Gallery, he invited a number of designer friends to exhibit their personal collections of objects. While the entire show focussed on design of bookshelves, they were examined in an unexpected way – as a sort of a metaphysical objects, a place where ideas, memories and recollections are collected together. A new show, now open at the Barbican in London, disregards the physical space where collections are stored – boxes, bookshelves, rooms, cellars – and focusses on the concept itself. Here, you have Damien Hirst’s skulls and tropical birds, Peter Blake’s enamel elephants and toys, Edmund de Waal’s Netsuke figurines, or Andy Warhol’s cookie jars. “Magnificent Obsessions: The Artist as Collector”, running through May 25th 2015, wishes to propose a new reading of artists’ work through, perhaps, one of the most revealing aspects of their everyday lives – their personal collecting compulsions.

The Blogazine 
18/02/2015

New York Fashion Week: Five of the Finest

As the frosty air lingers over the city that never sleeps, the fashion elite is running between fashion shows organized by New York’s finest brands. The metropolis for both streetwear and sportswear, the expectations set for New York’s runways were high. To follow are a couple of notable highlights.

The Coat: During the autumn/winter shows, coats are, naturally, a recurring highlight down the runway. This season, Victoria Beckham made a minimally chic yet innocently sweet interpretation of the oversized coat. A light and dark version with fastening in the same colour and in the form of a small bow on the side worked perfectly within the piece.

The Icon: Tory Burch seemed to be presenting a modern version of Joni Mitchell. With round sunglasses, bohemian patterns and many layers, it was a definite 1970s vixen who stomped to her own beat adorned with the Tory Burch stamp. It brought bohemian chic from summer into the fall season.

The Evening Dress: Who doesn’t want to be a urban princess? The desire was well understood by Zac Posen who presented glamorous two piece dresses with unexpected flair. A long flowy silk skirt paired with an unexpected top such as a faux fur long-sleeve shirt, in the same mustard colour, of course.

The Accessory: Oversized faux fur collar as seen at Altuzarra is the perfect winter accessory. This piece added another dimension to otherwise flat coats and jackets and can also be adapted to work in-between seasons for leather jackets. Another fur accessory making a splash was the fur scarf worn diagonally to supply an asymmetrical feel to otherwise symmetrical looks, showcased at both Jason Wu and 3.1 Phillip Lim.

The Surprise: In the financial district, the brand Hood by Air presented a collection with a fresh take on street-wear. Both menswear and womenswear were presented, with cutouts, black colour, fur and oversized pants as the main ingredients used in unexpected ways, ultimately generating a powerful collection.

Victoria Edman 
18/02/2015

Wolfgang Tillmans: Book for Architects

Wolfgang Tillmans’s installation Book for Architects (2014) is currently on view at the Metropolitan Museum for the first time since its debut at the 2014 Venice Architecture Biennale. Over a period of ten years, Tillmans photographed buildings in thirty-seven countries on five continents to produce Book for Architects. The 450 photographs are presented in a site-specific, two-channel video installation projected onto perpendicular walls.

Book for Architects shows architecture through the eyes of the artist. Tillmans seeks to express the complexity, irrationality, madness, and beauty found in quotidian buildings, street patterns, and fragments of spaces. He achieves this from a technical standpoint by using standard lenses, which most closely approximate the perspective of the naked eye. Additionally, Tillmans designs the experience of the exhibition in the installation space itself—from the proximity and arrangement of the projected images to the seating, which is designed in a bleacher-like arrangement to enable a range of perspectives and views of the work. Through this cyclic series of photographs of largely anonymous building exteriors, interiors, city shots, and street views, Tillmans presents a personal portrait of contemporary architecture that will be familiar to everyone.

Images courtesy of Wolfgang Tillmans and the MET 
17/02/2015

Daily Tips: Art on the Runway

New York fashion week is well under its way, with dozens of presentations, shows and events happening each hour. Yet, as fashion takes over the Big Apple, it is already quite evident that only a few runway shows will leave a trace, for better or worse, after the spotlights have been turned off. Among those that will surely be remembered, is certainly Kanye West’s collaboration with adidas, not so much because of the clothes – a set of pieces that mix classic sportswear, all-spandex attire with rebellious teenage feel – but for its particular presentation, co-signed with Vanessa Beecroft. The runway was replaced by a performance space with models standing in neat rows, acting seemingly annoyed and rather unimpressed, while wearing West’s mix of flesh coloured leggings and tights, layered with underwear over the top, ripped up jumpers and utilitarian outerwear. The peculiarity of the presentation, though, was its impeccable casting – racially diverse and showing different body types – which subverted the usual rules of the fashion week. So, does fashion change only when art is thrown in the mix?

The Blogazine 
16/02/2015

Style Suggestions: Nine to Five Chic

Sway away from your repetitive work looks and spice up your 9-5 wardrobe with some chic essentials this season. Here are our picks!

Trench coat: A.P.C., Dress: Givenchy, Boots: Dries van Noten, Purse: Marni, Sunglasses: Stella McCartney

Styling by Vanessa Cocchiaro