27/07/2012

Skyscraper: Art and Architecture Against Gravity

Skyscraper: Art and Architecture Against Gravity

Skyscrapers have always been so much more than pieces of architecture. In the modernist culture skyscrapers have stood for belief in prosperity, innovation and a better future as the symbols of power and enormous possibilities the world shaped by man could achieve. These incredible building structures that have for almost two centuries involved the most illuminated minds in architecture, engineering, art and design are being celebrated with an exhibition at the Museum of Contemporary Art in Chicago.

The exhibition titled “Skyscraper: Art and Architecture Against Gravity” tries to show the impact this iconic artefact has had in our contemporary society. The myth of the sky and the possibilities of men to reach it through artificial means have inspired not only the imagination and poetics of architects, but also artist from all over the world. These artists have taken as subject the form, technology, message, symbology and image of the skyscrapers as the central idea and subject of their work. Even though years have passed since the first concrete structures have reached meters and meters above ground, the skyscrapers, highly mechanical but also extremely elusive structures, still continue to play with our imagination.

The artist showcased in the exhibition are Fikret Atay, Jennifer Bolande, Roger Brown, Jeff Carter, Roe Ethridge, Jonathan Horowitz, Bodys Isek Kingelez, Claes Oldenburg, Gabriel Orozco, Thomas Struth, Jan Tichy, Andy Warhol, Peter Wegner, Wesley Willis and Shizuka Yokomizo, among others.

While currently many Western and Eastern cities continue to fight over who will build the next ’world’s highest building’ in search for technological domination and cultural glory, Chicago still remains one of the most important sights on the skyscrapers map. Hence, this exhibition, in some way, certainly plays homage both to this incredible piece of architecture, as well as the city of Chicago where it is being hosted.

Skyscraper: Art and Architecture Against Gravity runs until the 23rd of September at Museum of Contemporary Art in Chicago.

Rujana Rebernjak – Images courtesy of Museum of Contemporary Art Chicago

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11/07/2012

Met at Pitti 82: CAMO

Met at Pitti 82: CAMO

As a part of the Alternative Set at Pitti Uomo 82, the CAMO S/S13 Bar Collection was presented for the first time. The Blogazine was there to watch and savour in the performance inspired by Italian manners, and the movie Gli Amici del Bar Margherita (The Friends at the Margherita Cafe). CAMO is an Italian menswear line and project created by Stefano Ughetti, with whom we had a short meeting after the set’s ending.

Alternative Set is a new project during summer 2012’s edition of Pitti Uomo and Pitti W. During a number of temporary events and installations, the few selected brands were able to create special sets in various places within the walls of the Fortezza da Basso, outside of their regular stands. The CAMO set, which was created in the courtyard in front of the Central Pavilion, presented a well-dressed bunch of Italians enjoying a chat and sharing laughter, in the relaxed environment of their favourite bar.

“Each season we ‘camouflage’ the collection. Each one of them has a very specific theme, and this time around we are focusing on The Bar. You know the film Gli Amici del Bar Margherita? That’s the inspiration!” Stefano Ughetti told The Blogazine when we sat down to talk after the set. “The bar is the place where you meet people and where everyone becomes a part of the moment, there and then. You make special relationships with the staff, and as a regular, they might become your second family,” he continues. Despite the elegant yet casual outfits created for the Spring/Summer 2013 Bar Collection, Ughetti’s objective is not just to dress someone, but to make a person communicate with what he is wearing. “That’s right. I put the people in touch with the fashion and in touch with what they are wearing on that moment.”

The CAMO presentation offered a wardrobe that was pleasant to the eye in both shapes and colours, with the 80’s orange as a focal point, and nonetheless the sometimes unbearable heat during Pitti, a large crowd stopped to see the charming act showcasing Italian elegance at its top.

Lisa Olsson Hjerpe

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06/07/2012

Angelos Bratis – Greek Fashion in Italian Exile

Angelos Bratis – Greek Fashion In Italian Exile

For the last part of our Greek Fashion-series 
The Blogazine interviewed last year’s winner of Vogue Italia’s Who Is On Next? award – Rome-based designer Angelos Bratis. We decided to find out why the man has chosen to drape his garments directly on the mannequin, and what does he think about the Greek Fashion Crisis.

How do you feel about living in Italy, what are the good and the bad sides in comparison to Greece?

The only bad thing is that I miss my friends and family in Greece. Business-wise things are much better, since Italy has a long history in fashion, and Milan, where I have based my line, is one of the most important fashion capitals.

You suit every dress to the mannequin instead of having it pre-made. Why is that? Wouldn’t it be easier to just have them pre-sown?
By draping my garments on the mannequin I try to reach and discover new forms and solutions to dress the body every time. It’s a work in progress, every dress leads you to a new one. Sometimes the most interesting pieces come from mistakes, and I love surprises.

You’ve already done almost every single fashion week, but have you had any specific turning point in your career when you felt “now it’s happening”?

It’s a long way but I do have had moments when I felt empowered to continue, like winning the first prize of Who Is On Next? in last year’s competition of Vogue Italia. And seeing the gigantic pictures of Michel Mallard with my dresses at Musée Galliera in Paris, staying on display there for 2 years.

What is Greek fashion to you?

At the moment, I don’t really see a Greek fashion school or style coming out of Greece. It’s more about individual voices that certainly have a lot to say. Though, I think the Greek goddess style is an international classic that has inspired all designers in some point of their careers and something that the Oscar’s red carpet will always adore.

What about the financial crisis, is there any hope for the fashion world?
I hope that the Greek people will find soon a way out of this European crisis that is killing their dreams and destroying their everyday life, I am looking forward to a new strong generation of young designers coming out of Greece.

Petsy von Köhler – Photos courtesy of Angelos Bratis and MagazinePress

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27/06/2012

The God Father Of Sushi

The God Father Of Sushi

Mr. Abe, 40, the owner and the founder of one of the most vigorous Sushi restaurants in Tokyo, has opened a brand new venue in Roppongi, which has spurred his growth to form a bright triangle of restaurants in the central mid-night city.

“I’ve reached all my goals so far.” His ambitious endeavor never ends.

While he mentioned that his next goal is to achieve 10 billion yen – indeed a high goal to reach in the field -, his adoring eyes spoke well about his will to be the God Father of the devoted followers hoping to learn from him. The family of this benevolent guardian with tender toughness and hospitality has grown to over 40 actual workers plus the graduates, since he started with only 3 people including himself.

Born in Niigata, the northwestern part of Japan known as the most prestigious area for rice production, the ambitious young boy used all his knowledge to figure out how he could unite his love for fish to a profession. After 10 years of training at a notable old Sushi maison at Tsukiji Fish Market, his mother served as one of the catalysts for changing his life by motivating him to open his own place.

“One day, she got depressed. It flapped me. She was a strong-minded worker in the rice field, from 2AM till 7PM non-stop, everyday. I decided that I’d need to create some motivation for her.” Since then, special appetizers with mountain vegetables picked by his mother have been on the menu of his restaurant, so as the rice from his father’s fields.

“People are the utmost gift in life. I could never reject any customer’s request. If they call for catering even in the most busiest moment, we will complete it on time. Also, I don’t like to reject new  apprentices.” Naturally, his place got busier, and as a consequence, the opening hours were widened till 5 AM all year long. New restaurants were opened to provide jobs for all the willing apprentices.

As Mr. Abe says, each encounter is meant to be. He told us a very symbolic example, where on one sunny morning in Niigata, two mothers met in a town clinic and started chatting about their sons, finding out that both were by chance living in the same area in Tokyo. Feeling the destiny, Mr. Abe couldn’t help but to invite this young boy to work for him.

Ten years later, the young boy took charge of Mr. Abe’s flagship restaurant. “Today, I am here owing everything to Mr. Abe. Being an actual relative was not that important. As a professional, he has been quite tough with me, but now I understand how bitter it is to punish someone. Also, he always said that if you want to be at the top of a team, ‘be the first one to do the toughest jobs that everyone else hates to do.’ I learned it through his attitude” the apprentice grown to a manager told us.

Even in our time when things tend to get like decaffeinated instant coffee, there is still something we appreciate within the life-long sincere relationships. Through the deep Japanese tradition of Sushi, not only the art of the profession, but also the Abe-ism thrives among his family members and restaurants. One client even described Mr. Abe’s restaurant as his second home.

Ai Mitsuda

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23/06/2012

Zegna Goes Prints – Exclusive Preview SS 2013

Zegna goes prints – exclusive preview SS 2013

In a few moments Ermenegildo Zegna are going to carry out the S/S13 collection on the runway, available for anyone not in Milan to see through a live streaming as well. It was the new interpretation of silk and the longing for couture that encompassed the collection, when The Blogazine got an exclusive preview in the Zegna atelier.

High-waist slim trousers and sober saddle shoulder jackets underline the well-defined and confident silhouette of the SS13 man by Zegna. The Zegna Silk project is an important part of the summer collection, as well as the banana tree leaves and all over tropical inspired prints. The colours range from classic ivory to blue and gray, accentuated by hues of teal, tabacco and red. The fine silk fabrics have an alternative in the Irish linen, and the look is completed with the moccasins in leather or silk, luggage inspired bags, silk ties and printed scarves.

Even with the sportier part of the collection Zegna manages to keep their elegance, and it’s a laid back but self-assured man we will see at the catwalk today, balancing with fine Italian tailoring and eccentricity.

Lisa Olsson Hjerpe – Image courtesy of Ermenegildo Zegna 

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22/06/2012

Persephoni and the Greek Fashion Crisis

Persephoni and the Greek Fashion Crisis

Spending the week in the whirl of Pitti Immagine Uomo 82, we lay the Pitti harvest to soak in our minds for the weekend, and we continue the tour through Greece’s fashion industry in the storm of the economical crisis by interviewing Peni Giannaki and Bill Georgoussis – the couple behind the Greek accessory label Persephoni.

Bill is a fashion photographer and Peni is a set and costume designer, and together these two occupations – combined with their passion for architecture – constitute the world of Athens-based Persephoni.

Peni Giannaki claims that the Greek people are often surprised to hear that Persephoni is a Greek brand, “Persephoni doesn’t have a national identity. However, there is definitely a movement that is coming out of Greece, but we don’t have a cohesive style yet. You could say that the brand is based on an ironic take on Greek traditions and customs”.

Starting out a couple of years ago, expectations on general acceptance from the fashion world were low. However, Browns London, Vogue Italia and Steven Meisel soon put a stop to the doubts. “The big boom came when stores we respected started ordering Persephoni, and the press gave us so much attention so quickly”, Peni acknowledges. However, being a brand based in Greece, the couple has definitely seen the backside to the financial situation.

“As an industry, fashion in Greece never really existed beyond its shores. Local fashion heroes are struggling on their own, but it’s really tough to grow somewhere when there is no fashion substructure or education. The only real industry that does exist are a few dominant high-street brands which compete with big international chains.”

To survive the financial crisis, Peni tells us that they are doing their best to remain calm and positive. “
It is really hard when you realize that your country’s future is hanging by a thread. There are a lot of businesses closing down but at the same time there is a strong business movement driven especially by young people who seek alternative, creative and productive business solutions. We are two of them. The whole financial crisis here is more psychologically crushing than anything else,” he concludes.

“What comes to the future for Greek fashion, I know there are many well-known Greek designers but unfortunately they’re not based in Greece. That makes for a weak fashion ground and future development. But at least it’s good to know that there’s Greek blood running around the international fashion veins.”

Petsy von Köhler – Photo courtesy of Bill Georgoussis 

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22/06/2012

Andrea Pompilio’s Metropolitan Man Back in Florence

Andrea Pompilio’s Metropolitan Man Back in Florence

In January Andrea Pompilio presented his F/W12-13 at Pitti Uomo n°82, an appreciated collection with an after-following media coverage that was of great help for the young brand. For this edition, Mr. Pompilio was back as one of the special events on the Pitti calendar, presenting S/S13 with a runway show at the Stazione Leopolda in Florence. The designer continued to combine fine Italian tailoring with a fresh metropolitan look where colours and the play with details were in focus.

The Blogazine met Andrea Pompilio for the first time in February for a 4-question-interview and discovered where the inspiration for his contemporary man comes from, as well as the must-wear-item for the “Pompilio man” Summer 2012. After the show last night at Stazione Leopolda, we met with the designer again.

“I love the last looks, and the oversize shirts and the new Capri inspired prints, but no, I don’t have only one favorite item in this collection– it’s so much larger! We showed 26 looks tonight and that is only one fifth of the collection.” About his feeling of being back in Florence with a special event he said, “Right now I am so happy, and so happy it’s over [laughs]! I love Florence, it is a fantastic centre for men’s fashion, and the cool, cheerful feeling during Pitti is unmistakable. Of course I also want to thank Pitti Immagine for all the support, giving me the opportunity of creating this event.”

During our talk Pompilio also mentioned the importance of colour in the collection, as well as the mesh as an important material for the summer collection.


The colours of the collection ranged from toned-down blues, greens, reds and yellow to popping orange and neon yellow. The white crisp shirts had colourful stripe detailing and the shorts were matched with high knee socks with a back-seam-stripe. The show presented a metropolitan look inspired by the real-life-man, balancing on the everyday wear and sport-inspired details.

Lisa Olsson Hjerpe – Image courtesy of Pitti Immagine 

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21/06/2012

Peter Pilotto – Graphical Magic for Pitti W

Peter Pilotto – Graphical Magic for Pitti W

Last night Pitti Immagine together with this year’s guest designer of Pitti W, Peter Pilotto, invited us to a special event at the beautiful Palazzo Borghese in Florence. The designer duo that forms the company, Peter Pilotto and Christopher de Vos, met when they both were studying at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp. The installation together with the following presentation for Pitti W 10 presented a colourful S/S13 pre-collection where light sculpturing, graphic patterns and fine detailing were in focus.


The computer-formed language on the invitation and the graphic carpet in the stairs leading the guests up to the main venue gave an immediate hint of the inspiration. The two designers’ different skills of textile knowledge, prints and silhouettes were put together in a subtle elegance, where the microscopic graphical prints met with the designers’ scientific fascination towards nature. Beside a video installation showcasing the collection completely in the spirit of computer graphics, Peter Pilotto gave the audience a live show. The set-up for the presentation let the viewer inspect, analyze and see the full detailing of the garments. The models’ positions, still standing bare on podiums, slightly shiny faces drew the mind to store window mannequins and it put the design itself in total focus.

It was the inspired and the excited half of the duo that The Blogazine met after the show. “This location, scene, this oppourtunity, these surroundings, THIS,” Peter Pilotto said about the inspiration, while looking around him, gesturing. Their modern take on female fashion left a little magic for the viewers’ own thoughts, created in the contrast of the majestic venue and the vivid installation.

Lisa Olsson Hjerpe 

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13/06/2012

Eyeglass Connoisseur

Eyeglass Connoisseur

‘Eyeglass Fitter’? This term, that Issei Mori is using for branding his new career with, may seem rather alien to us. He gave us a guide on it at his office in Aoyama, the fashionista shopping heaven crammed with well-known fashion maisons.

Issei Mori, born in Kyoto, learned the eyeglasses business through his uncle, a visionary in the field, who was among the first to offer the high-end European brands in Japan from early 80’s, and expanded his business to Tokyo by opening one of the most recognized shops called Abalo, where Issei was in charge of its operation.

“I must say that only with a proper fitting eyeglasses appear beautiful on your face. Even wearing the plano glasses, the design should be completed within the harmony between the glasses and each individual face,” Issei explained. Today, eyeglasses have gained a status of a hip item. That may be much better rather than to be a symbol of Ugly Betty. As glasses are an item to set directly on your face, people ought to pay as much attention to the perfect fit as they pay attention to their hair or make-up.

Originally born as medical equipment, eyeglasses have become more like mobile miniature architecture, to be fitted on the landscape of your face. From the measurement of visual acuity to choosing the best selection of suited shapes, colours and materials in the harmony with your face, all the way to the fitting, adjustment and repair… Yes, it may be very reassuring to have a personal consultant like Issei who combines the best properties of technical and aesthetic characteristics.

“Eyeglasses talk about your personality. Before I was more into the eyeglasses themselves, and was more inspired by their beauty and perfection as an object. Now I am more interested in the ‘conversation’ between eyeglasses and the face, the person, the way of living, the total coordination.”

Rather than his understated naming ‘Eyeglass Fitter’, we felt like to call him as ‘Eyeglass Connoisseur’.

Ai Mitsuda

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07/06/2012

The Greek Fashion Crisis – An Introduction

The Greek Fashion Crisis – An Introduction

We’ve all read the papers, Greece is a country on the verge of a financial breakdown. Naturally the effects on the national fashion industry have been dire and many designers have been forced to shut down their business. In a short article series on Greek Fashion, we will investigate the recession’s effect on fashion through interviews with industry insiders.

Greece was one of the countries that experienced a hard time recuperating from the international financial crisis a few years back. In early 2010 the Greek government was exposed for having had one too many fingers in the budgetary cookie jar. Soon after, Greece and its fashion industry were depending on loans, credits and the goodwill of the struggling couturiers for survival.

Greece as a fashion nation has within the last decade produced a handful of designers who have been influential on an international scale. Among them, Sofia Kokosalaki who designed ceremonial costumes for The Summer Olympic Games in 2004, Angelos Bratis who became Vogue Italia’s “Who Is On Next”-talent in 2011, and an accessory brand Persephoni who have been recognized by magazines such as Vogue.

Tonia Fouseki, head of the organizing committee of AXDW – Athens Xclusive Design Week, believes that the Greek designers need Governmental support in order to overcome, but insists that there is enough talent within the nation to constitute a competitive force on the international fashion scene.

So Tonia, how would you describe Greek fashion? In what ways does the Greek fashion aesthetics differ from let’s say French and Italian Fashion?
Greek fashion is represented by dynamic and creative designers and has already exported great talents abroad that have managed to stand equal to international fashion houses. Some of the characteristics that make Greek Fashion aesthetics different are the rich color palette, the ethereal textiles and lines and the patterns inspired from ancient Greece.

The fashion industry worldwide has exploded during these last ten years, how has the Greek fashion industry progressed?
Greek Fashion industry has been progressing along with international fashion industry, but has not developed that much due to the small size of the local market and the financial difficulties. Another problem that Greek designers face is the lack of governmental mechanisms that can contribute to the transition from a small atelier to a massive production label and to the export of their work abroad.

Does the Greece fashion community mainly consist of traditional fashion houses, or are newcomers given a chance to show their capability?
At this point, many traditional fashion houses are shrinking in the local fashion community, and on the other hand flexible newcomers with new, modern ideas that offer another point of view to fashion by using innovative materials and forms have gained lots of followers in media, buyers and consumers.

What happened to the Greek fashion industry when the economy started to collapse?
The Greek fashion industry was one of the fields of economy that was damaged the most from the financial crisis. The whole industry faced delays in payments, many shops and boutiques closed down and collections still remain unsold. Designers started to restrict their expenses by moving to smaller venues, by producing smaller collections and by cutting off the most of their promotional activity. Also pricelists have been reconsidered due to the new reality.

In what ways does the fashion industry work in times of financial difficulties?
Cash flow reduced greatly and the whole market works with loans and credits. Many Greek designers are trying to work with stores abroad and collection prices have been reduced in order to be competitive. Consumers are more demanding and asking for value-for-money solutions.

What do you think about the future for Greek Fashion?
Although as a country we are facing a deep financial crisis and recession that has affected fashion industry, I think that if the creativity of our designers will be combined with the support of governmental institutions of the fashion field, Greek fashion industry will develop and follow the standards of the international fashion industry. Our organisation, at the international fashion week in Greece aims to continue to offer to Greek designers a platform through which they can showcase in their country and export and promote their work abroad.

Petsy von Köhler – Photo courtesy of AXDW, The Moodit and Luca Sorrentin 

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