17/07/2015

Who is on next? | Meet the Winners

The winning designers of this year’s edition of emerging talent design competition held by the Italian Vogue, have now been announced. Three winners of “Who is on next?” are expected to be dazzling the fashion runways for the years to come. The accessory category has two lucky winners, one of them is Nicolò Beretta – the young and upcoming designer, founder of the shoe brand Giannico. Giannico is a brand known for its mix of elements such as femininity, innocence, mischief and humour, crafting shoes that already have fans among celebrities such as Lady Gaga and Karolína Kurková. The other lucky talent who won the same award for his design of bags was Carol Oyekunle, the designer and founder behind the accessory brand Lolita Lorenzo. The brand that is named after her two children was founded in 2013 and has quickly become well-known thanks to its bold, luxurious and timeless aesthetic.

The name of the winner of the fashion category is Lee Wood, who has worked alongside Donatella Versace for 16 years before founding his own brand L72, which awarded him ”Who is on next?” prize. After studying Art and Fashion Design at the Berkshire College of Art & Design, Wood moved to London where a successful styling career began and in 1998 it brought him from London to Milan, lending a job at Versace. One of the biggest impacts Versace has had on his own work are his relations to the luxury market, which gave him a necessary experience of how a global brand functions. Wood’s own design aesthetic can be described as a classic 1950s-inspired silhouettes with a modern, sporty and colourful approach – qualities that surely brought the prize to the brand.

Hanna Cronsjö 
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16/07/2015

Paris Haute Couture Week

Last week as in translucent dreams, the creations of the Parisian Haute Couture week took center stage and invoked the pinnacle of fashion, while, at the same time, functioning as a reminder of the glitz and glamour that is not always part of Prêt à porter. Here is an overview of the delicious examples of how fashion can stun and innovate.

Color – A Black and White Affair: The colors mainly used on the couture runways were black and white. Naturally, there were also other shades, such as burgundy and pink, however it was the basic black and white that set the tone, either in combination with each other, as seen at the runway of Chanel and Bouchra Jarrar, or individually as observed at Zuhair Murad.

Techniques – Ruffle a few feathers: The use of ruffles and feather-like details was a fabulous technique showcased at almost every catwalk. Teased and frayed chiffon produced the feather-like quality for some looks and the addition of fringes, like at Armani, made for a particular element in tune with the feather look. At Giambattista Valli the feather skirt made for an impact in an otherwise simplistic silhouette, while these types of details could also be seen at Givenchy. Another small part that gained popularity was the use of ruffles. In all shapes and form, ruffles were presented to add volume but also drama. Viktor & Rolf presented what could be seen as more structural ruffles and added a sophisticated eccentricity to the concept.

Silhouettes – One Way or Another: The biggest trend of the couture season seemed to be that of asymmetry. Many designers presented collections with models baring an arm or with added details to a single side of the piece, as if to shake things up and call for a second glance from the viewer. At Christian Dior, coats were adorned by a fur sleeve while the other was left bare, Versace presented dresses with an ornate side and the other left minimalistic with a unison color connecting the two. Valentino with the clear remembrance of ancient Rome – albeit with a modern touch – presented several dresses with the classical asymmetric twist.

Victoria Edman 
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10/07/2015

Fashion as Politics

Chanel has done it and so has Stella McCartney. And now Hugo Boss can be added to the list of brand’s that look at the wider picture through fashion by deciding not to use fur in their collection. The political statements made by designers on matters such as feminism, environmental causes and human rights are many. As the impact of fashion increases, it is both affecting and having an effect on everything, from economy to being a very public and visible interpreter of today’s society. Politics has grown to become a more common part of the global fashion scene, but the phenomenon is not new. The Swedish brand Mah-Jong had a clear left wing political vision at the moment of their foundation in the 1960s. They wanted their clothes to be wearable, beautiful and available for the masses, but most importantly, produced in fair conditions and made of natural materials. These values became synonymous with Mah-Jong and their clothes have been used to state messages long after the brand died.

Although it is clear that fashion has been linked to politics before, it might not have been in the same commercial way as it is today. It is interesting that it is not just upcoming labels or unknown designers that are making public claims for political correctness – it is well established brands such as Chanel, Hugo Boss and Stella McCartney to mention the names outlined above. So why are we seeing this now and from them? The explanation can be found in the fact that fashion houses and designers today have their own channels to communicate with the masses through social media, and their impact and possibilities to influence their followers and fans has also increased. Another possible explanation could be their aim to connect their brands with new values in order to become more contemporary, but it can also be a result of a longer approach and a determination to really make a change within a specific field. Stella McCartney said no to the use of fur and leather before it became trendy, before she was established, which speaks for a more authentic engagement. Though, we must admit, sometimes it is hard to tell whether political engagements is just another term for PR strategy or a real commitment. The truth certainly lies somewhere in between.

Hanna Cronsjö 
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09/07/2015

The Eclectic Work of Duro Olowu

The term eclectic is almost being overused in fashion – it is a simple word that derives from the desire to describe a wide range of geographical or chronological styles fused in one look. Duro Olowu is a designer whose stylistic choices embody the term eclectic and has drawn the interest of fashionistas such as Linda Evangelista, Michelle Obama and Uma Thurman. Duro Olowu was born in Lagos, Nigeria and was raised between both Nigeria and England. In his young age he developed an interest for fashion and was particularly inspired by the mix of color, print and texture worn by women in his surroundings. Following his father’s footsteps he initially became a lawyer, which he gave up to followed his aspiration of becoming a fashion designer.

His self-titled womenswear label made its debut on the British fashion scene in London in October of 2004 with a collection inspired by “love and joy”. Since then, Duro Olowu has continued to impress with vibrant colors and an eclectic blend of ethnic prints, 1970s and 1940s inspired silhouettes that have become a key part of the brand. A high-waisted bohemian dress in patchwork —today known as the “Duro”— became a cult item in 2005 after being discovered by American Vogue editor Sally Singer. The Duro was responsible for putting the brand on the map, but the creativity of the man behind the brand kept the interest high beyond that single item.

Duro Olowu has the skill and creative eye to use bold patterns and colors from his African background and mix them together with urban and modern twists. What all his collections also have in common is the celebration of strong femininity. The impact of the bold and strong patterns on soft feminine shapes and the layers of a frayed and feathered coat are all stand out pieces procuring “all eyes on me” attention. The eclectic in the work of Duro Olowu is far from being overused…it is one of a kind.

Victoria Edman 
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08/07/2015

Style Suggestions: Summer Accessories

To add a bit of spice to your simples Summer looks, pair these classy accessories and you’re good to go for the whole season.

Scarf: Anya Hindmarch, Bag: Tomas Maier, Hat: Lanvin, Cuff: Chloé, Sunglasses: Isabel Marant

Styling by Vanessa Cocchiaro 

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03/07/2015

Next Big Names: Paris Fashion Week

For the past month, wenswear fashion weeks have followed their established schedule, with quirky Paris following the sombre runways of Milan. In Paris, we spotted some great emerging talents, that we believe have what it takes to develop even more and possibly grow to become the next big menswear names.

Julian Zigerli was born in Switzerland and graduated from the University of Arts in 2010 before founding his eponymous label. He is now showing his work at Paris Men’s Fashion Week, having previously showin in Milan, and has been enjoying huge success both locally and internationally with his colourful and playful design that focuses on combining sport references with colour, cut and interesting structures. Those were also the key words to describe his Spring 2016 collection.

Umit Benan, Istanbul-raised designer, that dreamed of a Hollywood career before redirecting his focus to fashion. Since then, he has studied at the Marangoni Institute in Milan, taken styling courses at Central Saint Martins and studied pattern-making at Parsons The New School for Design in New York. For his Spring 2016 collection, Benan has refined his take on masculinity with tropical Cuba standing for inspiration. Cuban references did not end with clothes: he brought Havana clubs to Paris by staging his show in a Peruvian restaurant on the outskirts of the French capital. The military stood for another clear style influence, with desert boots and army green populating his collection.

Pigalle, a brand that shares the nomination for 2015 ANDAM awards with Umit, was founded by Paris-born Stephane Ashpool. The brand aims to combine streetwear with old Parisian fashion traditions. The brand’s fashion show was not like many others – staged at the Palais Garnier in Paris, Oko Ebombo sang before Pigalle sent their Spring 2016 collection down the marble stairs. The collection stood out among other collections with interesting pieces such as suits paired with long layered shirts and Cossack hats.

These three, very different brands show that Paris has developed a great menswear scene with both established names and upcoming designers that are pushing the limits of traditional menswear design. It is interesting to see the development that has taken place in the latest couple of years within the field: the brands mentioned above are all part of a great change.

Hanna Cronsjö 
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29/06/2015

Style Suggestions: A-line Dress

There is nothing simple than a fancy A-line dress for your perfect Summer look. Pair these three pieces with classy accessories for those lazy days along the coast.

Dresses from top right to bottom left: Proenza Schouler, Miu Miu, Christopher Kane, Shoes: Acne Studios, Sunglasses: Dolce&Gabbana

Styling by Vanessa Cocchiaro 

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29/06/2015

Paris Fashion Week – Menswear SS/2016

Paris is always a good idea: this past fashion week established just why this saying is so often used. Elements of color, detail and stylistic inspiration materialized styles that were thought provoking and definitely “good ideas” for the year to come.

Colors – Black, White, Beige and Mustard: Besides segments of blue making their way into Parisian collections, the colors for the season seemed to go back to basic with a surprising hint of mustard, as seen at Strateas Carlucci, among a few. Black and white dominated both Haider Ackermann and Maison Margiela runways, but was accented with other basic colors such as beige and grey.

Detail – A Feminine Touch: On several runways, we could spot details previously ascribed to female styles. There were, for example, the neck scarves casually tied around the models’ necks, with abstract patterns, as seen at Yohji Yamamoto, or a more somber and classical stripe, as seen at Officine Générale. Givenchy re-introduced the male skirt in different varieties – with pleats, in denim or with a Jesus print. Men in skirts are just another step in the layering process. Belted waist was also a popular accent, as showcased by Issey Miyake.

Silhouette – All in One: The jumpsuit has, for several seasons, been spotted at the runways, where it is now introduced as the prime menswear piece for spring 2016. At fashion houses such as Kenzo and Acne Studios, the jumpsuit was dressed with a utility touch in vibrant colors, whether in bold prints or sophisticated block-coloured looks.

Inspiration – Military Influences: The marching band may not have been playing on runways in Paris, but there was a definite influence of military on several collections. Military references graced specific silhouettes, such as jackets seen at 3.1. Philip Lim, and overall looks as seen at Balmain. The camouflage print was also used for an added twist to otherwise classical pieces, such as Dior Homme sweater vests, pants and ties, which were adorned in camouflage, while Valentino used the print as an outer shell on shirts and jackets.

Victoria Edman 
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26/06/2015

Upcoming Talents from Milano Moda Uomo

As one of the worlds finest fashion capitals, with a long list of international and influential fashion brands based in the city, Milan has struggled to find room for its upcoming talents. Instead, cities such as London and New York have been more obvious choices for young designers aiming at a breakthrough, and the fashion debate has been dominated by possible solutions to what could be considered as Italian fashion’s biggest challenge. However, Italian upcoming talents have recently started to receive more attention and support. These efforts led to a great improvement when it comes to supporting and celebrating upcoming talents, so here are two of these promising menswear names.

MSGM is a contemporary and modern brand that had its real breakthrough last season when they became the brand on everyone’s lips following their first Milanese show. They became a popular label within the blogosphere as much as on the streets – two important arenas to win when aiming to appeal to the younger crowd, which seems to be one of MSGM’s many goals.

Andrea Pompilio is the master graduate from Istituto Marangoni and winner of the 2011 edition of Who’s on Next, the contest for emerging designers sponsored by Vogue. He is influenced by his two style icons and grandfathers, one a true gentleman with tailored suits, the other a military – two strong sources of inspiration that feel present in most of Pompilio’s work.

When summarising the efforts of the emerging talents in Milan (and the rest of Italy, of course), it is clear that the situation has improved radically in just a couple of years thanks to projects such as the previously mentioned Who’s on Next and the support of Giorgio Armani, to name a few. Even though the situation is better today and the future of Italian fashion seems brighter than before, there are still things that could be improved to optimise the chances for the promising talents to develop into established names. It is no doubt that these two will, and already have, meet great success with their work. They represents three different takes on menswear, and the fact that they are all showing in Milan is a sign for how versatile both menswear and Milan fashion week have grown to become.

Hanna Cronsjö 
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24/06/2015

Milano Moda Uomo 2015

When the doors of world fashion capitals open up to menswear every year, colors, shapes and styles to must be admired and documented. What is shown there will dominate fashion trends on streets for seasons to come and, therefore, deserves proper attention.

Colors: Grey, Blue and Metallic – Surprisingly, black was on the back burner for once and instead left room for grey. Seen in different shades it was the partner in crime for many suits. The addition of metallic flashes was also an element spotted on the runways of Les Hommes and Emporio Armani. It was an unexpected hue that brought back a pre-millennial feel. However, it didn’t change the dominance of blue that reigned many runways, including Missoni and Corneliani, where an assortment of blue tones projected an aquatic look.

Shape: Layered – A shirt and jeans may be the right look to get you by, however for the stylish man of 2016, the challenge is to master the art of layering. Whether it is with a double breasted three piece suit in a unison color scheme, as seen at Giorgio Armani, or in a more laid back style with parkas and ponchos of all kinds ,as presented at Dsquared2, layering was the key to assembling an innovative look. Versace also showcased their spin, with a reinvention of a traditional look.

Stylistic influences: A Man and Woman in Time – Even though fashion is a forward looking creative practice, it is hard to not take note of elements from the past and place them within a new timeframe. Many designers during Milan Fashion Week took aspects from the 1970s and combined them with, for example, influences from the 1990s, to blend together a new look for 2016. This trend went hand in hand with the androgynous appeal, reflected on the runways of both Gucci and Andrea Pompilio. Both houses used florals as an addition to their menswear lines and played with traditional gender boundaries, while adding to an ongoing debate on limits between sexes. Andrea Pompilio used sporty influences to bring the focus back together without losing a touch of humor that kept things interesting.

AUTHOR 
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