12/11/2014

Hubert de Givenchy: Everything Starts with the Fabric

Following the notes of Richard Roger’s “Isn’t it Romantic”, Audrey Hepburn interpreting Sabrina Fairchild attended the Larrabee party in a particularly memorable ball gown. At the time considered “tres magnifique”, and today highly iconic, the dress was designed by Hubert de Givenchy.

Mr. Givenchy was born in 1927 to an aristocratic family in the French city of Beauvais, and it was his maternal grandmother who instilled an initial passion for fabrics. He left for Paris at the age of 17, starting his career as an apprentice for the vibrant Jacques Faith and later the legendary Elsa Schiaparelli. In 1952, Givenchy opened his own couture house and presented his debut collection, which included the iconic “Bettina blouse” named after model Bettina Graziani. Givenchy would soon attract prestigious clients and introduce couture fashion to the Hollywood world. In fact, it was the unexpected encounter with a Hollywood diva – Audrey Hepburn, of course – that characterized the designer’s career as she became his lifelong muse, creative partner and most eager supporter. Together, they created Sabrina Fairchild’s style, influencing decades of fashion history and bringing their respective worlds to an iconic status. When Givenchy launched his first perfume, L’interdit, in 1957, it was Audrey Hepburn who fronted the campaign making headlines. 1957 was also the year Givenchy introduced the “sack silhouette”, an innovative cut free of form and waistline. Givenchy also encouraged women to show more leg through higher hemlines, becoming a forerunner of 1960s fashion.

After being one of the first designers to sell his fashion house to a big corporation in 1988, Givenchy retired in 1995 abandoning, almost entirely, the fashion limelight. His work is now being honored at the Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum in Madrid in an exhibition curated by designer himself. Hubert de Givenchy’s retrospective features 95 of his pieces celebrating the designer’s remarkable career.

Victoria Edman 
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11/11/2014

Clothes with History: the Military Jacket

Throughout fashion history, certain garments were able to acquire specific meaning and represent ideas, concepts, struggles and relationships much more broader than the item itself. One such garment is certainly the military jacket – from an institutional item to a symbol of subcultures protesting against the Vietnam War, up to today’s use in the music context – the military jacket can tell stories about the history of our society through a simple piece of rough fabric.

From John Lennon’s uniform of choice to Robert De Niro’s rough character in “Taxi Driver”, the military jacket was offered to the fashion world through the worlds of cinema and music. It was Yves Saint Laurent in 1968 who first introduced it in high fashion, with his “Sagarienne style” borrowed from British officers in India. From grand couturier’s atelier to young fashionistas on the grassy catwalks of Glastonbury or Coachella, the leap is quite long, and yet the military jacket still serves as a statement piece of an easy and subtly rebellious look.

In fact, last season’s runways proposed a contemporary interpretation of the timeless military jacket, with Alexander Wang, for example, designing a crossover jacket-dress piece. Olivier Rousteing from Balmain proposed a more realistic, everyday look with utility pockets and though green leather as the basis of his collection. For men, on the other hand, Kenzo proposed a different palette with a feminine lily nuance. As we slowly put on heavier jackets and coats, we cannot but look towards Spring 2015 and its take on this iconic piece of clothing.

Francesca Crippa 
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10/11/2014

Style Suggestions: Rug Up

As temperatures get lower by the day, the only fashionable solution is to add layers of fabulous clothes in burgundy or electric blue paired with classic accessories in black and white.

Coat: Aquilano Rimondi, Top: Stella Jean, Gloves: Bottega Veneta , Beanie: Stella McCartney, Booties: Jil Sander, Bag: Marni

Styling by Vanessa Cocchiaro 

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07/11/2014

The Talented: Graham Fan

Graham Fan, a young designer with roots in both Canada and Hong Kong moved to London at the age of 19 to attend Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design; a decision that, as with many other fashion designers attending the school, became the start of his promising design career. Graduating earlier this year, during his time at the college Fan interned both with Marc Jacobs and Donna Karan. The time he spent in their design studio effected the way he sees the content of a modern wardrobe, defined by him as a balance between being sophisticated, sensual and edgy.

For his Fall/Winter collection, shown as part of Central Saint Martins MA 2014, the young designer was inspired by old weaving techniques. He explored the possibilities of the old technique using it with unconventional materials. Thus, the collection is a combination of traditional craft and innovative material choses, as he mixes mohair, metallic plastic cords, leather and cords. The silhouette fuses together influences from the 1950s as well as more modern twists expressed through boxy shapes, which in combination with the black and metallic woven materials makes the resulting pieces quit unique.

Despite his young age, Graham Fan has built his own design language which combines different influences, materials and styles into products that feel interesting and special. His AW 2014 collection gave us an insight in his design world, and now we can not wait until we get to see more of his sophistication, sensuality and design edge; in other words, Graham Fan’s work is something to look forward to.

Hanna Cronsjö 
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05/11/2014

Beauty is Power in the Life of Helena Rubinstein

A “Madame” of perseverance and style, who not only broke the boundaries between commerce, beauty and art, but also became a symbol for modern women during the 1920s: building the concept of beauty salon as a place of education, personal growth and modernist culture, Helena Rubenstein empowered the aspiring modern women to define themselves through her own choices. She was a feminist heroine and a model of independence, rejecting the consolidated ideas about cosmetics and revolutionizing the industry.

Born in 1872 in Kraków, she departed for Australia at the age of 24, changing her name from Chaja into more poetic Helena Juliet. As her skin quickly caught the eye of Australian locals, in 1903 she started selling her miracle face cream “Valaze” at her debut salon in Melbourne. Following the modest beginnings, her global empire quickly grew to be present in over 30 cities including London and Paris. At the outbreak of World War I she relocated to New York City, a place where Rubinstein would become a true icon. She put specific beauty products, such as the waterproof mascara, on the map and was one of the early promoters of sunscreen. As unbiased as her approach to cosmetics, the eclectic taste showcased in the decor of her salons and homes served to expand the discourse around her peculiar idea of beauty. The Rubinstein salon was a unique place where women could go not only for beauty but to contemplate design, color, and art.

Helena Rubinstein: Beauty Is Power is an exhibition showcasing how Rubinstein’s approach changed the established conservative palate and created a modern twist to the world of beauty, making it accessible to all who desired it. The exhibition features over 200 art pieces from Rubinstein’s collection including works by Picasso, Andy Warhol and Frida Kahlo, jewelry and clothing designed by Elsa Schiaparelli and Paul Poiret as well as vintage advertisements and cosmetics products related to her iconic beauty brand.

Helena Rubinstein: Beauty Is Power will run until March 22nd 2015 at the Jewish Museum in New York.

Victoria Edman 
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04/11/2014

The Velvet Season

Velvet is one of the oldest and richest fabrics; notable for its peculiar texture, during the Middle Ages wearing clothes made of velvet was a sign of nobility. However, the allure of velvet was not only know by aristocracy, as the material became a symbol of religions, from Christianity and Judaism to Islam. In the XVII and XVIII centuries, velvet turned into an interesting material for furniture design, too.

For Fall/Winter 2014-15 catwalks, designers have taken to celebrating the luxurious fabric, by giving it a contemporary flair and increasing its naturally chic and sensual vibe. Emilio Pucci went for manlike mono-color suits in dark orange and dark green, with flared trousers and tight jackets. The striking detail? Models wore outfits that matched their skin and hair colors. Erdem, on the other hand, followed a darker path. His choice of velvets vests relied on an all-black colour palette, emphasized by floral lace decorations, while the cuts remained slim and refined. On Saint Laurent’s runway, Hedi Slimane played with the Seventies mood (again), exploiting the culture of rock music and its tireless groupies. The resulting pieces were very short – kind of childish – dresses, jackets designed to be worn open and inevitable mini skirts. While the velvety trend is best appreciated on clothes, it was also embraced in accessories design, shoes in particular. From Medieval inspiration proposed by Dolce&Gabbana, to theatrical pieces put forward by Gareth Pugh: the is definitely the velvet season, and we can all feel a little bit royal.

Francesca Crippa 
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03/11/2014

Style Suggestions: Friends Night Out

For a night out with friends you want to feel casual and relaxed, yet still add a pop of colour and some refined cuts for a simple but fabulous look: a selection of essential pieces with a classy twist will get you through this season’s manly outings.

Beanie: Burberry, Coat: Canali, Shirt: A.P.C., Jeans: Levi’s Made&Crafted, Shoes: Dolce&Gabbana

Styling by Vanessa Cocchiaro 

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31/10/2014

The Talented: Juyan Zhou

Thousands of applicants has been narrowed down to 24 lucky semifinalists in H&M Design Award for 2015. Among the chosen young talents from schools like Parsons the New School for Design and the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York, Central Saint Martins in London and the Royal Academy of Art in Antwerp, is the Paris-based designer Juyan Zhou.

Juyan Zhou attended L’Institut Français de la mode in Paris and her graduation show was – as with the rest of the award’s applicants – attended, photographed and noted before she was chosen by a jury in Stockholm. Her design is influenced by illustrations and photography, which takes shape through her brushstroke inspired patterns and innovative constructions. The pureness of nature and sculptural volumes are other sources of inspiration for her Fall/Winter 2014/2015 collection, expressed through the natural colour scheme and the concept of playing with volume. She therefore brings photography, painting, architecture and fashion together in her design, challenging our ideas about the idea of fashion as art, while still remaining wearable and subtly utilitarian.

In November, 8 of the 24 talented designers chosen for the award will be getting the opportunity to show their collections in front of a highly respactable international jury who will decide the sort of this season’s award. The winning designer will receive a mentorship with the Swedish retailer, the opportunity to host a runway show during Stockholm Fashion Week, a hefty monetary prize and, most importantly, an in-store collaboration with H&M. Our bet is on Juyan Zhou.

Hanna Cronsjö 
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30/10/2014

Women Fashion Power at the Design Museum

From Elizabeth I to Margaret Thatcher, Coco Chanel to Lady Gaga, the clothes women wear have always been a powerful form of self-expression and part of a sophisticated visual language. Women Fashion Power, a new exhibition currently on show at the Design Museum in London, looks at how influential women have used fashion to define and enhance their position in the world. The exhibition celebrates exceptional women from the spheres of politics, culture, business and fashion – forward thinkers who have had an impact on our wardrobes and the world stage.

Women Fashion Power examines the last 150 years of women’s fashion with an immersive visual timeline which takes the visitor from the restrictive boned corsets of the nineteenth century to the statement Louboutin heels of today. Alongside archive photography and film footage, pieces on display include: a 1920s beaded ‘flapper’ dress, 1930s clothes and accessories owned by Elsa Schiaparelli, a 1941 handbag designed for carrying your gas mask in style, a ‘Le Smoking’ suit designed by Yves Saint Laurent in 1966, the blue Mansfield suit worn by Margaret Thatcher when she was elected leader of the Conservative party in 1975, a punk wedding dress from Zandra Rhodes’ 1977 ‘Conceptual Chic’ collection, a pair of bubblegum-pink 1980s Reebok Hi Tops and the Jacques Azagury dress worn by Diana, Princess of Wales on the occasion of her 36th birthday.

As more women are holding office and being recruited into society’s most powerful leadership roles, Women Fashion Power asks whether it is time to reassess the role of fashion in the public sphere – not a frivolous distraction, but an essential component of the working woman’s toolkit. Colin McDowell, the curator of the exhibition, said ‘This exhibition shows how women have used different approaches to dress in order to make statements which are unique to them and their personalities. Few of the women in this exhibition would see themselves as fashion plates or even strong fashion followers. They create their own wardrobes, not to be fashion plates but to demonstrate who and what they are.’ Women Fashion Power will run until April 26th 2014 at the Design Museum in London.

Rujana Rebernjak 
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29/10/2014

Farewell, Mr. de la Renta

There is something poetic about capturing old fashion elegance through modern eyes; a beautiful sartorial contradiction that one could not but hope to last forever. Yet, Oscar de la Renta represented so much more than just his clothes.

Oscar de la Renta was born on July 22nd 1932 in the Dominican Republic. His childhood home was filled with exuberant flowers and vivid colors, an environment that must have formed a window into future inspiration. When de la Renta was 18, he left the Caribbean island to study painting at the Academy of San Fernando in Madrid. His goal was to become an abstract painter; however he was quickly enticed by fashion design. He was soon awarded a position with Cristóbal Balenciaga which allowed him to observe a great master at work while honing his skill. After a few years at Balenciaga, de la Renta moved to Paris and obtained a position with Lanvin, which would introduce him to the world of haute couture. Predicting the hit of ready-to-wear fashion, de la Renta leaves Paris for New York where he establishes his name while through working at Elisabeth Arden. In 1965 he opened his own house which, to this day, remains one of the most high profile American brands.

In the years to follow, de la Renta would have great impact on both the fashion world and society itself. In 1973, as the president of CFDA he created the CFDA Awards making the organization independent of Coty sponsoring. In the year of 1990, he received the CFDA Lifetime Achievement Award and again in 2000 he is recognized by the organization as Womenswear Designer of the Year. Continuing his fashion career by becoming head couturier at Balmain and over the years expanding his own brand to include clothes for children, accessories, home and much more, Oscar de la Renta became a starlit success story in his home country. The admiration Oscar de la Renta had for his heritage, has been made cleare throughout his life: whether expressed through a song, his clothes or simply in warm words, the native Dominican always said it out loud.

On the 20th of October the world of fashion grieved the loss of a man and an icon. The impact he had on the industry and society itself will be forever remembered and revered.

Victoria Edman 
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