Fashion | The Blogazine - Contemporary Lifestyle Magazine

02/03/2015

Milan Fashion Week: Colours

During the Fall season, black is usually in the lead with the guest play of jeweled tones. During the past week on the runways of Milan, there were, however, a few other colors that were taking over the field.

Red: Bright red or shades of burgundy worn from head to toe were seen at shows such as Pucci, Versace and Salvatore Ferragamo. In combination with a cape or long flowy sleeves, red elevated the looks to regal finesse.

Light pink: As a continuation of the pink trend from SS15, a lighter version vas presented at Prada, N°21 and Marni, each with an edgier structural style showcasing the importance of feminine power dressing.

Black, white and yellow: This color combination is no longer just a licorice treat: it could be seen in numerous variations on the runways of Jil Sander, Bottega Veneta as well as Roberto Cavalli. The yellow was in contrast with the established monochromatic look, adding a splash of whimsy to the sophistication of the black and white uniform.

Victoria Edman

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27/02/2015

London Fashion Week: New Talents from CSM

As every other year, during London Fashion Week, the Central Saint Martins graduate show represents the future of fashion. This year, the whole impression of the show was promising, but there are certainly four designers that stood out a bit in the young CSM niche.

Hayley Grundmann showed exceptional technical knowledge when sending her graduation collection down the runway. By combining voluminous, knitted material with sleek and more anonymous fabrics, she created interesting silhouettes and shapes, that expresses the postmodern idea of combining different and unexpected influences into something new. Pieces like the grey sweatshirt with knitted details became a great reflection of this peculiar desire to be both included and stand out, all packaged within a beautiful collection.

Paul Thomson seemed to be influenced by the same ideas as Grundmann, since the mix of materials played an important role in his collection, as well. Instead of focusing on playing with different shapes, Thomson has mainly used the knitted fabrics as details to create patterns, play with finishes and draw attention to clean cuts. The result is a collection that feels both luxurious – with the sober color scheme and in the choice of fabrics – and in the same time cozy, thanks to the knitted fabrics. This impression is strengthened by the styling which is topped with grey knitted socks.

Catriona Mcauley-Boyle’s collection is colourful and experimental: it is obvious that she is not afraid of exploring or realising her design visions and that she does it without compromising. It is a refreshing collection that feels optimistic both in the amount of colour, combinations of patterns and the execution. We look forward to seeing what McAuley will be doing next.

Beth Postle has drawn clear references to the art world in her graduation collection. The abstract patterns and the clean cuts are two elements repeated systematically throughout the collection. The art influences, nevertheless, do not feeling dated. Instead, Postle has taken them and transformed into contemporary mood, while, at the same time, adding her style to it. These are two aspects that we are interesting in seeing developed in her future designs.

Hanna Cronsjö

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26/02/2015

Plastic Army: Gareth Pugh at Galeria Melissa in London

Many times we have heard about fashion as an instrument to face the day, to win everyday challenges, to master all kinds of situations. So, it is not hard to believe that many designers have reflected upon the theme of the armour, declining it into their personal aesthetics and offering to their audience always different proposals; be it typically western or with a deep oriental taste, historically-inspired or conceptual, the design of these armours often deals more with the sensibility and attitude of the person who designs it than to the requests of the market.

Since starting his label ten years ago, Gareth Pugh decided to work in order to shape his own ideal armour, ‘modern’ as he himself defines it. An ideal made of all the recurrent elements of his designs: repetitive, almost obsessive patterns, geometrical and neat cuts, impossible volumes and materials unusual for fashion. Gareth Pugh stated that plastic is the medium of expression for his armours, and now his army is being deployed. Indeed, an exhibition in London is showcasing the results of this verdict, celebrating the bond between Pugh’s designs and the possibilities of plastic as a malleable – and wearable – material.

Held at Galeria Melissa in London, the exhibition celebrates the 10th anniversary of the brand and the collaboration between Pugh and the Brazilian shoe brand Melissa. The selection of clothes, or better, the manipule is very small – from six to eight dresses, all paired with shoes the designer has created in collaboration with the Brazilian brand, which started in 2008 – but it well exemplifies the themes Pugh has most explored in his practice. It is hard though to call it a retrospective; it is more a glance at Pugh’s own world of references, inspirations, manias developed during the years of his creative activity – of course, in plastic.

The recovery of the past seems to be at the basis of this exhibition, as well as of the decision to go back to show his collection in London, the city that formed him professionally and hosts his ‘creative family’. Moreover, ten years may seem a small amount of time but, fashion-wise speaking, are perfect to establish an image and send a clear message: in few words, to place steady roots. It is then interesting that Pugh went back to the roots and reflected upon his archive, isolating subjects and opposed forces in his works; all the elements that have merged into these armours on display, so fierce, forceful and fascinating, that he has shaped them as the core of his army.

Marta Franceschini – Images courtesy of Galeria Melissa

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24/02/2015

London Fashion Week: Three Dashing Trends

“Go where we may, rest where we will, Eternal London haunts us still.”, is a quote borrowed from Thomas Moore that seems fitting for days following London Fashion Week. Below are some of the high points caught on the city’s runways that will probably ‘haunt’ us for the upcoming year.

Flashbacks: Walking down the memory lane is an important framework for fashion in any era, as it moves from point A to B. Several of the designers presented collections reminiscent of past decades, yet echoing the zeitgeist of 2015. At Jonathan Saunders, 1960s mod and an excellent mix of patterns was displayed. Temperley London proved a master at the glamour era of the 1970s. Long flowy dresses, kaftans and coats in sequins and tribal patterns brought comfortable elegance, as feminine pieces were updated with a dash of masculinity, in a perfect balance between his and hers. Vivienne Westwood Red Label showed, on the other hand, that the 1980s power dressing can still be relevant today, even without looking too much like an extra from Working Girl.

Ruffled Feathers: Mary Katrantzou added a flamenco-style ruffle to the bottom of many of her skirts. It was a frill that might seem trivial, but that made the look more voluminous and in control: a sort of a power dress for the 21st century. A mini version of this skirt could be found at Simone Rocha, but with the change of material with something a bit more regal and English.

Fringe Affair: At Issa, the fringe became part of several looks creating an interesting juxtaposition of old and new. It added flair to coats and movement to formfitting dresses without giving up on urban elegance. Tom Ford used the layered fringe effect in both light and dark dresses mimicking a modern take on the Western-style. Even though the fringe is no stranger to the runways, both Issa and Tom Ford added playfulness to the mix keeping the pieces alive.

Victoria Edman

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23/02/2015

Style Suggestions: Sports Inspired

Sports proved to be the big theme this season, with the upgrade of tracksuit pants leading the runways. What was once a humble sports attire is now getting a stylish makeover and is worn outside of gyms.

Jacket: Saint Laurent, T-shirt: President’s, Backpack: Freitag, Shoes: Acne

Styling by Vanessa Cocchiaro

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20/02/2015

New York Fashion Week: Four Upcoming Designers

New York Fashion Week has officially turned off its spotlights and sent all the greedy style-hoarders home. Reflecting on the week’s hottest highlights, here is our selection of four bright new stars.

Sally LaPointe, born in Massachusetts and now based in New York, is a name to remember. The young designer already counts celebrities such as Katy Perry, Kim Kardashian and Emily Blunt among her fans, as she made a name for herself with a minimalist aesthetic and distinct cuts. Her collections are both designed and produced in New York, which contributes to make them modern on another level, giving locally produced pieces a new meaning. Her latest collection proposes well-designed pieces for the woman of today, with the purpose of making her look both edgy and chic.

Rosie Assoulin began her design career at the age of thirteen, experimenting with her grandmother’s sewing machine and exploring different patterns, textures and styles. Several years later, after a brief time at Fashion Institute of Technology and working under childhood idols such as Oscar de la Renta and Alber Elbaz, she has become one of New York’s most talked about young designers. She developed her design expression into a mix of what can be best described as ‘evening meets everyday’. In tune with trends seen this year, this approach is a reflection on the postmodern society and the ever-changing definitions and identities of our daily lives. This combination results in feminine, wearable and fresh pieces that speak to a wide range of modern women.

Creatures of the Wind was founded in 2008, by Shane Gabier and Christopher Peters. Their first collection was born in Chicago, but New York is now the home of both the brand’s production and distribution. Their aim is to combine influences from subcultures, mythological themes, and youth culture. Their A/W 2015 collection is as strong as previous ones, as they mix traditional pieces with more playful details, such as colourful patterns and interesting cuts.

Daniel Silverstain, is an Israeli designer, now based in New York, who works with the aim of uniting fashion, art and architecture in his designs. Silverstain’s pieces come from a futuristic point of view where innovation and minimalism are essential. He explores high-tech materials and uses them to create unique shapes and finishes. The combination of industrialism, innovative materials and creating pieces that are comfortable and made for being worn feels right in time, and so does his latest collection. The metallic color palette and simplified shapes are reflect his design philosophy, as it connects art to its neighboring disciplines.

Hanna Cronsjö

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19/02/2015

Faking It: Originals, Copies, and Counterfeits at FIT Museum

At the beginning of century, fashion was considered as an elite world, a small niche only open for the lucky few. Back then, plagiarism was taken very seriously, not that today is not, yet with the growth of fast fashion the boundaries of authenticity are becoming weaker. Faking It: Originals, Copies, and Counterfeits aims to investigate the dynamic behind this process of creation, authenticity and violation of creative rights. An exhibition hosted by FIT in New York City, traces crucial moments in history of fashion and their relationship to the process of copying.

From the comparison of an original 1966 suit by Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel to its perfect reproduction, the show underlines the thin line between what is legal and what is not. Madeleine Vionnet, on the other hand, tried different initiatives to stop the production knock off her designs; she even marked her label with a thumbprint to authenticate each creation she produced. Phenomena like the 1947 Christian Dior collection became so viral that everyone wanted such a piece of clothing, resulting in a big amount of unauthorized copies being sold all around the planet.

Structured around comparison and a specific time path, Faking it: Originals, Copies and Counterfeits brings to life and sheds historical perspective on one of fashion’s most urgent issues today. The exhibition will remain on show through April 25th 2015.

Francesca Crippa – Images courtesy of FIT

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18/02/2015

New York Fashion Week: Five of the Finest

As the frosty air lingers over the city that never sleeps, the fashion elite is running between fashion shows organized by New York’s finest brands. The metropolis for both streetwear and sportswear, the expectations set for New York’s runways were high. To follow are a couple of notable highlights.

The Coat: During the autumn/winter shows, coats are, naturally, a recurring highlight down the runway. This season, Victoria Beckham made a minimally chic yet innocently sweet interpretation of the oversized coat. A light and dark version with fastening in the same colour and in the form of a small bow on the side worked perfectly within the piece.

The Icon: Tory Burch seemed to be presenting a modern version of Joni Mitchell. With round sunglasses, bohemian patterns and many layers, it was a definite 1970s vixen who stomped to her own beat adorned with the Tory Burch stamp. It brought bohemian chic from summer into the fall season.

The Evening Dress: Who doesn’t want to be a urban princess? The desire was well understood by Zac Posen who presented glamorous two piece dresses with unexpected flair. A long flowy silk skirt paired with an unexpected top such as a faux fur long-sleeve shirt, in the same mustard colour, of course.

The Accessory: Oversized faux fur collar as seen at Altuzarra is the perfect winter accessory. This piece added another dimension to otherwise flat coats and jackets and can also be adapted to work in-between seasons for leather jackets. Another fur accessory making a splash was the fur scarf worn diagonally to supply an asymmetrical feel to otherwise symmetrical looks, showcased at both Jason Wu and 3.1 Phillip Lim.

The Surprise: In the financial district, the brand Hood by Air presented a collection with a fresh take on street-wear. Both menswear and womenswear were presented, with cutouts, black colour, fur and oversized pants as the main ingredients used in unexpected ways, ultimately generating a powerful collection.

Victoria Edman

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17/02/2015

Daily Tips: Art on the Runway

New York fashion week is well under its way, with dozens of presentations, shows and events happening each hour. Yet, as fashion takes over the Big Apple, it is already quite evident that only a few runway shows will leave a trace, for better or worse, after the spotlights have been turned off. Among those that will surely be remembered, is certainly Kanye West’s collaboration with adidas, not so much because of the clothes – a set of pieces that mix classic sportswear, all-spandex attire with rebellious teenage feel – but for its particular presentation, co-signed with Vanessa Beecroft. The runway was replaced by a performance space with models standing in neat rows, acting seemingly annoyed and rather unimpressed, while wearing West’s mix of flesh coloured leggings and tights, layered with underwear over the top, ripped up jumpers and utilitarian outerwear. The peculiarity of the presentation, though, was its impeccable casting – racially diverse and showing different body types – which subverted the usual rules of the fashion week. So, does fashion change only when art is thrown in the mix?