Does space influence the way people work? This is the issue behind Paul Barbera’s project that documented, through images and interviews, creative working spaces all around the world. With Where They Create, the Australian photographer – who started taking pictures of interiors almost by accident: “it’s the thing I do without thinking” – changed his voyeurism into a sort of anthropological research. Looking for absurd and hidden things, Barbera entered 32 studios of international creative people – artists, AD, architects, designers, stylists, editorials – and captured all the details of their personal stories and artistic processes.
From Wallpaperand Fantastic Man studios to Matali Crasset design space, Olaf Breuning’s atelier or fashion house Acne (and many more), the Australian photographer peeked into different places with their peculiarities: organised, chaotic or dominated by a chaotic order, empty or with people working, sober or recalling a teenage bedroom.
Barbera’s curiosity, naturalness and good eye for interiors, together with his ability to transmit emotions and warmth make this project unique. Creatives need to transform their offices into intimate spaces (like a home), and to keep his/her own things close to be able to create. Other could work anywhere, travelling with the bare essentials as does Paul. But everybody, even if for a while, leaves personal traces, aspects that don’t pass unnoticed… if you are able to catch them.
Initially thought only as a blog, Where They Create turned into a book thanks to the interest of Frame Publishers.
Presented in NY on September 2011, this sort of diary will be presented in Italy, for the first time, at DesignLibrary(via Savona, 11 Milano) on December 14, from 6 to 10pm.
Bouke de Vries had an extended stay in Milan recently while he exhibited in a solo show, Signs (Metamorphsis) at the always on the vanguard Maria Gloria Gallery. De Vries is an artist polymath, his career shifting across mediums and his work always remaining devoid of compromise. His trajectory has taken him from restoration of art to the spotlight of the pop culture art scene, commercial art, jewelry (he released a line in collaboration with Anoushka earlier this year) and on to political activism. His most memorable works are perhaps those which openly criticize chairman Mao Zedong, and . His pieces look like otherworldly pastiches of a hedonistic, ethereal dreamscape, and they showcase flaw to great effect.
“In this flawed world, perfection seems to be an attainable goal… But not-quite-perfection is often easily dismissed and discarded…”
For the occasion of his stay, 2DM’s Matteo Cherubino filmed and interviewed the artist among the eerie, surreal backdrop of his recent sculptural work: surreal cross sections and self-contained worlds of a parallel universe. Or a Cherubs. Butteflies. Cigarettes. Dramatically combined with porcelain. In conversation, the artist reveals inner working of the artist’s mind, his depth of perception, and his extraordinary and unbound working process.
De Vries also presented together with Gloria Maria Gallery at this year’s MiArt, showed at Artissima this year, and often exhibits at his home gallery, London’s Vegas Gallery.
Tag Christof – special thanks to Bouke de Vires & Gloria Maria Gallery
Sam Green is a San Francisco-based documentary filmmaker best known as the man behind The Weather Underground, a widely acclaimed documentary that chronicled the rise, fall, and aftermath of the controversial and highly influential 1970s American anti-war group of the same name. Released in the aftermath of 9/11, the honest portrait resonated with the widespread sentiment of the time, and Green’s film eventually earned him an Academy Award nomination for Best Documentary Feature in 2004.
Through his films Green often displays a fascination with individual characters testing their hard-pressed ideals against inconceivable realities. His 1997 feature-length debut, The Rainbow Man/John 3:16, detailed the downfall of Rollen Stewart, a man who became a nationally known figure in the 1970s simply by appearing in front of cameras at sporting events wearing a rainbow-colored wig. Stewart’s obsession with fame and companionship eventually leads him spiraling into radical religion and isolation, and, in the end, jail. Green’s most recent full-length, Utopia in Four Movements, was a live performance film that used four off-kilter stories from the 20th century to examine the state of hope and optimism and, more importantly, what becomes of it once it meets reality.
We recently spoke with Green, who also teaches part time at the University of San Francisco and the San Francisco Art Institute, about The Universal Language, his new short film chronicling the origins of Esperanto and the surprisingly vibrant worldwide culture that continues to speak it today.
The Weather Underground Documentary by Sam Green
Hello, Sam. Can you hear me okay? Yeah, I can hear you ok. How are you?
Good. I want to thank you for doing the interview. Sorry to catch you on your way out the door this morning. No, no, no it’s fine. I’m shooting a little film about fog in San Francisco, and what it means is I have to be ready to shoot at any time, and this morning the fog rolled in really thick and I had to go out and do it.
You’re shooting a film about fog? Yeah. It sounds like a short about the weather—the quintessential boring subject, but…I don’t know if you’ve been to San Francisco, but there’s amazing fog here—that’s sort of one of the things that’s at the heart of San Francisco’s identity. You know, fog and foghorns—a truly beautiful phenomenon. It’s just a short film about that.
I’ve been threw there a handful of times. I grew up in the Pacific Northwest, on the Kitsap Peninsula, and used to travel through San Francisco as a kid. Tell me about your new film, The Universal Language. What was your initial inspiration? I always sort of knew about Esperanto, and I imagined this idea of a universal language, how everybody speaking the same language would somehow bring about peace. I always thought it was something that was created in the 1950s, kind of a science fiction thing. And then a couple years ago I came across something about Esperanto that said it had been created by a guy in the late 1800s—a Polish guy. And I was really surprised because I didn’t know it was that old of a thing. So then I was curious and I started to read about Esperanto, and I really like the combination of the story and idealism. It’s such a good idea.
But it’s a good idea running up against the reality of a culture. You know, it’s hard to get people to learn the new language, so in some ways it’s a bad idea. And I’ve always sort of liked that sort of intersection or collision between idealism and the constraints of who we are. Also, I liked it because it’s hard to be hopeful these days. And somehow Esperanto—I mean even the very name means ‘one who hopes’—is all about hope, and I like that. That’s what got me going on the project.
This practical approach to bridging long-standing cultural gaps. Yeah, it’s a cool idea. If only it could work.
Exactly. Esperanto people say it does work. There is this pretty vibrant movement of people who speak it. There’s people whose families have spoken it for several generations. Native speakers. For them it does work. They’re not waiting for some utopian movement where everybody learns it. They use it and they communicate with people from all over the world. From their perspective it works.
Was that something that surprised you when you started to get into the production of the film? Did you think the community would be larger, or more miniscule, than it actually was? Yeah, I was surprised, and I think that most people I described the project to are surprised that there still are a lot of people who speak Esperanto. Every summer there’s a World Esperanto Congress and it happens in a different city each year. One was in Florence, Italy, and I once went to one in Yokohama, Japan. Lots of Esperanto speakers from all over the world show up. Because for them the real heart of the experience is talking to other people. There’d be like 3,000 people there from all over the world, which completely surprised me. I was surprised that there still is this movement, but they think it works.
Why do you think that is? Because they’re not framing in terms of having a political agenda? I think there’s two parts to this. One is that speaking the language allows you to talk to people from other countries and other cultures. But I think deep down they do have a political agenda that the world could be more peaceful, that people communicating is good, and allows you to see other people as human beings. It’s political in a subtle way. I think all of them deep down do it out of some idealism. It sort of comes out of a political impulse.
You previously dealt with Esperanto as a movement in your previous film, Utopia. I’m assuming the short film grew out of that. That was more about the idea of utopia—looking at Esperanto as this utopian phenomena. The Universal Language is more of a portrait of the language and the people who speak it. Not necessarily about utopia.
I’m interested in learning about the reasons you chose the examples you did for Utopia. Can you elaborate on that a bit? I wanted to make a film about why we today don’t think a lot about the future. We don’t’ have a lot of imagination about the future or dreams about the future. I think today people feel like the future is kind of just be a worse version of the present. So I was trying to make a movie that sort of mulled that over, but I didn’t want to make a movie that was like a boring PBS documentary where you interview an expert or anything like that. I wanted to do something more poetic, something that elicited more of an emotional response. I had this idea of doing different stories that all evoked the idea of utopia in one way or another, some more directly than others. The part about Esperanto is pretty clearly this utopian project: it sort of works, sort of doesn’t. Then there’s another section about the world’s largest shopping mall. That’s sort of like a capitalist utopia where we all shop and consume all we want. That’s a different kind of utopia—all of these things I hoped fit together in a weird way. The sum of their parts create this set of ideas and feelings about utopia and the utopian impulse. So they’re all something that I just really liked. I come across things and I feel them. I read something about it, or I get a little smitten with the subject. That’s what usually leads to me making a movie about something.
You said in an interview a few years back that you were actively trying to make a more positive movie. Was the utopia project your attempt at giving a positive spin on situations that might be largely perceived as tragic, or at the very least failures? That’s a good question. I sometimes feel as if I make the same movie over and over again. I think everybody who makes movies or writes books, in some ways you’re doing the same thing over and over again. A lot of the movies I’ve made have been about people with big dreams that somehow—things don’t turn out the way they want them to, necessarily. And so I’ve always been trying to do something different to make a movie about total success. Like, ‘God, I have to make a movie about P. Diddy.’ Or ‘I gotta make a movie about Justin Bieber.’
(Laughter) I don’t know if Justin Beiber’s story is going to turn out so well. He may only have a couple of years left. I know, that’s the thing! But it’s got that richness that failure has. It’s sort of even just a joke with myself. Like, ‘god dammit. I have to stop making these failure movies and make a movie that’s about absolute, total success.’ I’m still working on that one.
But like you said, your films are kind of drawn to marginal events and characters involved in them who went for broke. Your first big film was about the rainbow man. There was a preacher I saw years after that happened—I don’t know if this was in your film or not—who saw what the rainbow man did as a huge success. It reminded me of the worldview you present in your films, of finding a glimmer of hope among these ruins. It’s funny; there’s different ways of seeing it. I’m sure there’s some people, or he maybe, may think of it as success. Who knows. Also with a group like the Weather Underground, that’s a complicated thing, and some people say, ‘God, they were total failures.’ But it’s complicated and you never know. The world works in this way of sort of ripples. You never know what the reverberations will be. Something that could be a failure might inspire somebody in vigor to do something else that turns out to be a big success. You can never say 100% ‘That was a failure, that was a success,’ because over time things change. The Weather Underground was certainly a complex thing. In some ways it was a failure, but in some ways just as a project, or a gesture, it was a success. I mean it certainly has inspired people, and that movie resonated with people in a complicated way.
I saw that film while a student at Western Washington University. When you were making that film in the late 90s, did you imagine it ever reaching such a broad audience? Not really. I started it in the late 90s, and the late 90s were such a light time if you look back. The most heavy duty thing that was in the media was Chandra Levy, or the impeachment. At that point the Weather Underground’s story was noteworthy in how radically different it was from the tenor of the times. Like, ‘Oh man, that ancient chapter in history when people were actually protesting something?’ Sure, there was like Seattle [the WTO riots] and stuff, but for the most part it was just a kind of light time. With 9/11 it obviously changed that. I was editing right when 9/11 happened. It changed the context of the movie. You always see something in a context and you connect it to what’s going on in the world at that moment. So it forced me to change in small ways the movie I was making. It also changed how people saw it. It made it much more overtly relevant, and in that sense it got a much wider audience than I had originally thought it would.
In what ways did the film move away from your original intentions? There were some funny, sort or humorous things we had in the movie before 9/11 happened. And afterwards there was much less room to joke. For example, the Weather Underground had this song book. They would take pop songs and change the words and sing them. And they’re really mean: they made up funny, mean songs. Because they were like psyching themselves up to do this shit; they had a little bit of a twisted sensibility. So they’d make up these funny, mean songs, and before 9/11 I had included some of these songs in the rough edit. They were just funny, and sort of ironic, mean humor. Afterwards you couldn’t joke like that. I mean, it was such a serious topic, that to joke was not cool. So that stuff came out.
So what are your plans for The Universal Language? I just finished it and I sort of started off by saying, ‘I want to make a movie that can be distributed all over the world.’ Or, ‘I want to make a movie I can show in Africa.’ I’ve got to make it so that people can understand it. Esperanto speakers everywhere can understand it, but I started to get it translated into other languages, and people in the Esperanto world helped me out. Somebody said, ‘I’ll help you translate this,’ and he sent out a message to all Esperanto speakers. Then these people started translating it. So I got it translated into 19 different languages and I made a DVD with all of these subtitles tracks on it. It’s 19—the world’s record for most languages translated in the DVD. So I’m starting to distribute that, and I think it’s a cool moment in filmmaking where you can really get a movie out really widely—through the internet, through social media. Also, you can download and stream from your own website. Which, in some ways for filmmakers is like the holy grail, because we’ve always had to go through a distribution fee, or TV, or all of these gatekeepers. Again, it’s this weird moment where technology has made it so that you can really powerfully distribute things. I’m gearing up to make a big push to get this film out to all over the world, which I’m excited about. It’s an experiment for me to see what’s possible these days, in terms of distribution. Some filmmakers finish a movie and say, ‘I don’t want to have anything to do with this, I’m on to the next film.’ And I’m somebody who really cares about distribution and getting something out there. I enjoy working on that. I like making films that I also like promoting them and getting them out in the world. So I’m going to spend a little time and energy doing that while I’m starting some new stuff.
That kind of goes against what you did for your last project, where you seemed more concerned about engaging the audience in a very specific way. It almost seemed as if you were wary of the internet and the nonchalant way it allows people to engage with media. What were your intentions with Utopia, where you literally had to show up to the theatre to experience the film, Vs The Universal Language, where you’re trying to get it distributed as widely as possible? That’s a great question. My response would be that different projects lend themselves to different forms of distribution. With Utopia, to me that was a serious film about a serious subject. Who we our today, our relationship with the future—hope, idealism, stuff like that. Those were heavy topics and required some thought, so I wanted to make something and create a form that would hopefully really maximize the attention that people would give to that. For that project live form actually seemed fitting—the only way could see it would be in a context that would hopefully get you to think about it. A theatre is perfect for that because you leave all of your normal day-to-day shit at the door and lose yourself in this theatrical experience. In some ways that’s the best form for living that experience. But with The Universal Language I’m much more interested in a lot of people seeing the movie. So a much more fitting form of distribution is having DVDs all over the place, downloads, and streaming—these very immediate ways people can see it, you know. I’m not judgmental about distribution; I feel like different kinds of films lend themselves to different kinds of distribution.
In a previous interview you said, “As a filmmaker you’re going to have to accept the fact that somebody might be watching your movie while checking their email,” or something along those lines. But you’re also acutely aware of how the internet has leveled the mainstream media’s influence and become a great regulator of resources, where people get to naturally vote what they watch. How do you balance these two opposing forces? Well, the internet is such a complex phenomenon. There’s a lot that’s good to it, and a lot that in my opinion is not. But I am not a Luddite. I am critical of it in some ways, but anytime I go onto Wikipedia, or YouTube, or Flickr—those are such fantastic things. I do so much research on Flickr and YouTube. I love them. Those are powerful, powerful, powerful things and nothing like that has ever existed. At the same time there is a lot that I’m critical of. Like the fact that people are watching things in a much more disposable way. There’s so many movies now, and you just watch things with a lot less patience, with a lot less attention. It’s inevitable. I did this thing a couple of years ago when digital music was becoming new and a friend of mine had a drive with 5,000 songs on it, and I copied them all. And I was so excited to learn about all of these bands I’d heard about but never listened to, and I found myself going through the drive, and I’d give each song five seconds. I’d play it for five seconds, and if I didn’t like it I’d throw it away. And I realized, ‘Damn, when there’s so much out there, you can approach it with less patience.’ It’s so great to be able to get music easily, but at the same time there’s a downside to that, which is that we pay less attention, and we’re less patient. Having to pay attention is important. I’m not gonna say that it’s all good, or it’s all bad.
I’ve found similarities with that. With my job I end up reviewing a lot of albums, and obviously you can get anything for free these days. I find that, at least for me, if I don’t pay for an album, I don’t enjoy it as much. It’s true! And I think that’s a super-important idea, and that’s definitely something I’d keep in mind. That if people don’t pay even a little for something it’s pretty meaningless at this point.
I also wanted to ask: As a teacher, do you think people—and especially our younger generation—these days are more pessimistic, or at least more influenced by negatives, than previous generations? I don’t know. I mean, I’m older myself, so it’s a little hard for me to talk about younger people. But I think the world is a lot scarier than it has been, and is a lot scarier on a lot of fronts: Environmentally, politically, and economically. My heart goes out to young people who are just getting out in the world now, because it’s a tough time. It’s hard to be idealistic when you’re worried about how you can afford not to live at your parents house. So, it’s touch. You’ve got to take care of basic things first, like how you’re gonna live, how you’re gonna support yourself. Then you can move on to other things like making the world a better place and all that. I think people will have very immediate concerns maybe 10 or 20 years ago people didn’t have. That’s a burden. That’s tough. But you deal with the world you get. When you come of age in your early 20s at a certain moment, that’s your moment. You’ve gotta deal with it.
I admire younger people, and I have a lot of hope for younger people. It’s a crazy time right now, and out of that some good things are gonna come. Young people are gonna have to figure their way out of this, and they’re probably not gonna have older templates, or older ways of thinking about the world. They’re gonna have to come up with their own stuff, and that’s great. I think it’s gonna happen and I’m excited about it. Even though it will be something that will probably surprise older people like myself.
You studied with Marlon Briggs in college, and your name is often mentioned alongside his. How did he influence your work and worldview? He was great. I don’t know if you know his stuff, but I went to journalism school and there were a lot of people who wanted to be news people—a pretty straight-laced environment. And Marlon Briggs was great because he had actually gone to that school—the UC Berkeley Journalism School—and he did stuff that was really intellectually rigorous, but he also had a real experimental and artistic sensibility. His work was smart, but it also was poetic, which is rare. Oftentimes stuff that’s smart is dry, and if something’s poetic it’s a little bit dumb or vacuous. He was able to combine those two, and that made a big impression on me. I’ve always tried to combine those two impulses myself. He was a great and a legend, so I’m not putting myself on the same level with him. I just aspire to do what he did.
I went to school, and then decided I had to get a job, so I went to LA and got a job doing TV news—I worked for a news magazine show. I did that for a little while, and it was really stupid. After that I decided, ‘Forget this, I’m just going to do documentary stuff.’ So I then got back into the documentary world. Briggs had passed away by then, but he’s always been an inspiration for me.
What drew you to documentary filmmaking? When I was a kid I was really into the world, just hearing about the world. I got into Bigfoot when I was a kid—I was really into Bigfoot for a couple years. I was just kind of a nerdy guy in terms of that type of stuff. But I also was into art and drawing and stuff like that, and so after a while as an adult I realized that this was the way to combine those two things. Do art, but also be engaged with the world. I also went to art school when I first went to college, but it felt so cut off from the world. Journalism was a way to engage with the world, and documentary film became a way to do both at the same time.
I’ve noticed that you’re drawn to that unique tension between idealism and absurdity—I’m thinking of the short film you did on Meredith Hunter [lot 63, grave c]. It approached his story from an angle that was very interesting, one where you spend a lot of time looking through the lens of the grave keeper. You flipped this major cultural event—something that’s become a catalyst for the end of the idealism of the 60s, and focused instead on the victim, and it ended up being about how he didn’t end up getting a gravestone, which seems completely absurd. That came out of being curious. I just went with a friend out to see what I could learn about that guy. We went to that cemetery, and I had that exact experience, where we talked to the cemetery guy and he said, ‘Let me show you where the guy is buried, you’ll never find it,’ and walked out there. It was a long walk, and on the way I just chatted with him about death, and his job—this weird job—and so we finally got to the place, and he said, ‘Here it is,’ and it was this unmarked grave, and it had a big impact on me. I don’t know, something about that moment, and the idea that this guy is in this unmarked grave kind of lingered with me. So the film became an expression of that. We went back and filmed the exact same thing—the guy walking me out there. I was curious about who this guy was, but in some ways it was also about some bigger idea about death and the way people sort of fade into oblivion and never look back.
Tell me about this new fog documentary since we’re on it. It’s just something I’ve been working on with my friend Andy Black, and we’re doing it together. He’s a great cinematographer and I’ve worked with him on Weather Underground and all the films I’ve done. We’ve been doing it for a couple of years—I mentioned that fog in San Francisco is really spectacular, and also we’re interviewing people who just have interesting connections to fog. In San Francisco there’s these foghorns, these iconic foghorns, and we interviewed the guy at the Golden Gate Bride who turns them on and off. He’s a really funny fellow, and it’s just this weird thing, like ‘Somebody actually turns these on and off.’ It’s a pretty big project, and I thought it actually would be an easy project. It’s super-hard to do filming because you never know when it’s gonna happen or where. It’s been about four days of sunshine with no fog at all, which has been a little heartbreaking. So, suddenly there’s a lot of fog and we’re running out of somebody’s house to just shoot out of her window.
So it’s a fun, weird challenging project. The thing I like about fog is that it’s both visually pretty stunning, but then also deep in some ways. People have very profound feelings about the fog, and at night the fog and the foghorns are this real sort of poetic, existential phenomenon. It’s a cool project, and hopefully we’re gonna finish shooting in the next week or so, and then start putting it together. I think it’ll be like a half-hour long piece that’ll be done next year.
Sam Green.
Just one last thing: when will The Universal Language be released? In about two or three weeks. It’s starting to have screenings here and there. There’s a screening in Berlin later this month. I’m doing one this weekend in San Francisco. It’s not gonna have a six city rollout or anything like that, but it’s definitely getting out there.
Interview Lane Koivu – Images from The Weather Underground film and Sam Green.
At long last the first print issue of ILOVEFAKE has landed. The glorious, nefarious, indulgent publication that has long done a swell job of “Celebrating the Spirit of Youth” in digital format has made the jump offline with publishers Blend Studios. This first print issue, entitled Seven Nine Tease is a mashup of ILOVEFAKE’s already well-known ethos and 1970s and 1990s styles, taps into fashion’s schizophrenic zeitgeist and runs wild with it. The issue positively pops, and is a fantastic start to what will undoubtedly be a brilliant run.
The mega personality behind the publication is none other than 2DM photographer Jolijn Snijders. Her singular vision and very, very strong sense of style has driven the project, and hers is essentially the personality the magazine itself has taken on. No small feat. And as a sweet cherry on top, the journal’s fashion director is none other than 2DM’s stylist Jordy Huinder, and the in-your-face (very Dutch) art direction comes courtesy Harold Jonk.
Inside the issue is loaded – seriously filled to the brim – with top-notch features and content. From editor Niels Erik Toren’s mind-blowing article “Sway,” to a feature on new British fashion designers, and editorials from the likes of photographers Joost Vandebrug, Napolein Habeica, Lady Tarin, Elza Jo, Alex Brunet, Joe Lai, Kristophe Kutner, Letty Schmetterlow, Ebony Hoorn, and many others. There is also some very well-placed work by 2DM’s Roberta Ridolfi, as well as a stark “Polaroid Story” by Andrew Kuykendall. Contributing stylists include Alice Godard, Hanae Uwajima, Caroline Larrivoire, Tess Yopp, David Motta and others. As well as, of course, a host of killer work by Jolijn and Jordy themselves. 2DM’s stylist Ilaria Norsa’s work also makes a lovely cameo.
The first touchable issue of ILOVEFAKE is welcome, distinctive and fun addition to the canon of today’s best fashion magazines. It’s irreverent and feel-good and clever and aggressively stylish, and this is most definitely not the last you’ll hear about it from us.
The magazine’s launch party is set for this August 4th at SPRMRKT’s original location in Amsterdam. Be there or be square.
Before you read another word of this, watch this video.
Now, don’t you really really want a cigarette now? I’m not generally a smoker, but I weakly went out and bought a pack after I watched it for the first time – it is importantly only the third pack I’ve ever bought. Ever. So just try to imagine the models in this excellent video doing exactly what they’re doing without them: it is unabashedly sexy because of the smoking.
Top Tung Walsh for Pop, Above Juergen Teller for Paradis
Theories about why smoking is so sexy abound. Each one as ridiculous and impossible as the next. “The cigarette is phallic.” (Lesbians think smoking is sexy, too…) “Virile young humans smoke, which has made us over time equate smoking with virile young partners.” (Plenty of fat old humans who don’t get much sex smoke, too…) “Humans had ancient ancestors with long incisors that resemble cigarettes which evolutionarily makes our brains equate cigarettes to long incisors, which equal good mates“ (Yikes. I’d like to meet the storyteller crackpot who came up with that one!) And the list goes on. And on.
Greta Garbo by Cecil Beaton
In any case, this video directed by Saam Farahmand for Tom Vek’s latest single somehow taps into smoking’s sexiness in the most positively provocative way in recent memory. Here smoking is a romp through a garden of pure, unabashed pleasure. Here it is sex. Soma. A journey from arousal to climax. And without diving into the many, many pitfalls of the habit (we know, we know, we know), fashion’s continued flirtation with the act has been unyielding, which might suggest that there is a deep, primordial connection to it after all.
Jolijn Snijders
Think of Cecil Beaton’s famous portrait of a smoking Greta Garbo. And every major fashion photographer from Avedon to Testino to Richardson to Goldin have used it in some capacity quite successfully. Juergen Teller shot vehement smoker and artist (in that order, I think) David Hockney last year. 2DM’s Skye Parrott (a disciple of Goldin), Jolijn Snijders and Bruna Kazinoti – all of whose images are laced with undercurrents of emotional and sexual tension – have each used the cigarette extensively in their imagery to brilliant effect. Tung Walsh (himself a disciple of Teller) and Vicky Trombetta, whose styles are more distant and hard-edged, as well as low-key, polished Nacho Alegre and Pablo Arroyo, have also skilfully made sexy even sexier by handing their models a cigarette or two…
Top Bruna Kazinoti, above Vicky Trombetta for Wonderland
So just as the United States one ups Europe’s screaming text warnings and follows other countries such as Australia in adding gut-wrenching images to cigarette packs, there remains quite the uphill battle. What’s wrong in mainstream society is so, so right – and per in the subversive world fashion. Even if there isn’t anyone among us who doesn’t have a hacking, wrinkly aunt somewhere to remind us by example of smoking’s devastating long-term effects…
Top Jolijn Snijders, above Skye Parrott
But the cancer sticks continue to seduce. And will until continue to do so until their un-sexy consequences become something other than distant, far-off, vague threats on crisply designed packs.
So in any case, be quite sure to augment your sexy with extreme caution. I’m throwing away my still unopened, brand-new pack today. Well, maybe I’ll smoke just one…
Tag Christof – Images courtesy 2DM, Juergen Teller and the estate of Cecil Beaton
2DM’s Jolijn Snijders trekked to Morocco recently to shoot Shingai Shoniwa, lead singer and bassist of London’s The Noisettes, in the north African sunshine for Modzik. The results are punchy, bright and up-close and personal.
Shingai whose incredibly powerful style is infused with a very African brand of flamboyance, has ‘tude by the truckload. Her fans know that she’s quite the amped up performer. And the editorial, called “Black Panther” brings it brilliantly to the surface. (The accompanying interview, for anyone who speaks French, is also a nice read – Shingai even mentions her goal to complete a London-Brigton course on a leopard-print bicycle.)
Styled delightfully by Flora Zoutu. Jolijn’s usual hard-edged beauty shines through… Fashion includes Aurélie Bildermann, Tom Ford Eyewear, Viv Westwood and others. Catch it in the current issue of Modzik (with a track by The Noisettes as a sweet bonus).
“…[poetry] is somewhere between an anchor and a compass…”
The Blogazine had a long, intense conversation with legendary slam poet and hip hop artist Saul Williams in his adopted home of Paris recently. Just before the launch of his drastically different fourth album, Volcanic Sunlight on Columbia / Sony Records – as Vicky Trombetta was shooting him for a recent editorial – we talked poetry, war, and existing as an artist in Paris.
Saul is rare among pop culture figures for his progressive, thoughtful politics and his introspection-driven art, and this conversation is nothing if not introspective and thoughtful…
This short, edited by Daniele Testi, is a rare glimpse into the artist’s vision of the world. And even when not performing, Saul is an incredibly eloquent speaker. Watch the video twice to really take it all in.
Also, don’t miss Vicky’s editorial of the artist in the last issue of Modzik.
The Swedish stylist Ingela Klementz-Farago and her husband, the Hungarian-born photographer Peter Farago is the couple behind the epic project Northern Women In Chanel.
The couple has since 2010 lead a unique collaboration with Chanel. The result is an exhibition, which was inaugurated in early July at the photographic museum Fotografiska in Stockholm, and a massive pavé coffee table book. The photo series features 45 internationally known models of Scandinavian and Baltic descent, and about 500 couture pieces from Chanel, and will during the fall and winter travel through Europe.
The project is one of a kind in more than one way. First off, the usual puppet master Uncle Karl is not in leading position. And the usual contemporary Northern beauty has been placed in a greater historical perspective, and invites the viewer for a journey through time, with many easily discernible Scandinavian cultural phenomena.
In one photo, the surrealistic innocence and beauty of Linnea Regnander and her fellow elven-like colleague is portrayed as noble women in a middle age church-environment. Whether they were in collusion with King Gustav Vasa, or simply belonged to the court, the history does not convey. In the black and white photo, featuring a giant cross, Vicky Andrén steps in to the World of Ingmar Bergman and vintage Swedish melancholia, and becomes a still frame from the director’s chef-d’oeuvre ”The 7th Seal”. An intriguing dark scenery which one rarely associates with Chanel.
That’s the true genius of this project. To bag, borrow and steal something so connected with the French national spirit and heritage, and put it into such a different context. The terms cultural exchange comes to mind. From Femme Parisienne to Swedish Dalkulla.
However, such strong historical aspects also requires a lot from the mannequins fronting the project. Except for the 42-year-old Helena Christensen, the greater lot of the models are fresh from the Runway Foetus Factory, and there is simply something about classic Chanel couture, to which a 17-year old blushing beauty cannot always do justice.
Indeed, some pieces demands the Garboesque stern superiority of Kristen McMenamy. And where is the majestic poise exuded by Ingmari Lamy when you need it the most?
Something that is easily forgotten when talking Chanel, and something that in many ways has been buried in time is that, if you are to believe Axel Madsen, author of Chanel; A Woman of her Own, the Madame herself was a lot more than cute cupcakes from Ladurée. Coco Chanel was the raging riotgrrrl of couture, decades before Kat Bjelland got her first guitar.
So, when working with this very brand, it’s crucial to always add a hint of corsage-crushing avant-garde edge, to the timeless elegance and class that is Chanel. Where many others fail (read fashion magazine’s editorials), and simply end up cooking beautiful, slightly mediocre Chanel soup, the Faragos turn out to have many bright fashion photography moments worthy of Madame Coco herself.
Artist, designer and fashion illustrator, 2DM’s Naja Conrad Hansen has been quite the busy bee as of late. Not only was she recently included among the 200 Best illustrators In The World for the third consecutive year by Lürzer’s Archive, Naja’s work has been making waves in commercial and editorial circles the world over for quite some time now. Her uniquely seductive, yet approachable style is steadily making her one of the most sought after illustrators in fashion. And if the growth in her her body of work over the last two months is any indication of her future trajectory, this could not ring any truer…
Recently Indonesian shoe brand EverBest sought some of the artist’s charm for the design of their latest store lunch in Jakarta. Pure, beautiful and spunky as ever, Naja’s art brings this new store in Gandharis City to life. But probably the biggest feather in her cap is the recent illustration she created for Spin magazine. The latest Lady Gaga issue the go-to music magazine released on the iPad features a one of a kind Naja Conrad illustration of the starlet.
From pokerfaced pop powerhouses to absolute darkness, Naja’s art seems to cover it all. Under the tagline “Is It Dark Yet?” Naja is also exploring the haunting depths of the colour black for a collectable poster. The funky poster is now on sale at artypeople.se, the hot Swedish arts portal.
And to top it off, attendees at London Fashion Week got a special slice of the artist as her designs were featured on goodie bags from designer Aza Zanditon and Six Magazine. Now out with her own t-shirt line Meannorth, the artist has sealed the deal, making her one powerhouse of multifaceted creativity.
The populace of an ideal consumer society moves like cattle. Neatly segmented into little boxes, making predictable choices and spending their disposable resources on self-aggrandizing tokens of dubious worth. And this weekend, while crammed between two heroically fat passengers on an international flight, I had a blinding realisation that most travel has devolved into one of those tokens. A type of consumeristic merit badge.
I once had a romantic vision of travel, one in which a fuller passport automatically equalled greater perspective and a path towards relative enlightenment. And certainly, travel can do exactly that. Cross-cultural understanding, language learning and personal enrichment are hallmarks of the truly well-travelled. But as I watched the plump, suntanned faces on either side of me guzzle down several Diet Cokes while their owners nervously flipped through supermarket “adventure” magazines, I saw those cattle that marketeers and profit-hungry corporations adore.
In our short conversations, the couple bragged about jaunts to Africa and southeast Asia and a cruise to Alaska. And they were clearly people who had travelled quite extensively. But they were also people who have seen very, very little. They don’t leave their hotels while in foreign countries. “We loved the hotel… the cuisine! But it’s just too scary out on the streets!” And just like every good consumeristic cattle, these people (provincials who interestingly consider themselves quite cosmopolitan) don’t like it when things don’t come neatly packaged with clear warning labels and disclaimers.
Now, this couple was certainly extreme. But overtones of their attitude – not only of cultural superiority but also of laziness – can be felt strongly when travelling to any sort of heavily touristic destination. The droves of people who pack like sardines into unpleasant airplanes don’t truly want to experience the culture or uniqueness of their destination. They want to be coddled in fancy hotels, to take pictures of themselves smiling in front of iconic monuments, and then go home to brag about it to their friends. And they want to do this without feeling threatened or uncomfortable… except that being foreign is by nature uncomfortable. And its downright exhilarating!
And there’s the disturbing trend towards resort travel, in which tourists cross the globe to stay at posh mega resorts. All while completely ignoring the place around it – why visit India or Tahiti when all you see are your Swedish masseuse and American concierge? The spas and glittering towers of Dubai and Las Vegas are paradise, but those are cultural vacuums in inhospitable desert environments designed precisely to be self-referential monuments to hedonism – the resort is the culture, and there’s certainly nothing wrong with some hedonism from time to time. But outside of these adult Disneyland, it is extremely unfortunate that their non-culture cultures are being exported en masse to all tourism. For starters, Florence just got a loathsome new Hard Rock Café in one of its most beautiful piazzas. Now the city’s legions of American college girls really don’t have to trouble themselves with eating in Italian restaurant…
So, to those of us who travel for the right reasons (and readers of The Blogazine certainly do), this summer perhaps calls for a hard restart. We are trendsetters in style and believers in lives well lived. So as you venture off this August, think about really living your hard-earned vacation. Maybe even stay closer to home to experience the treasure trove of things you undoubtedly haven’t experienced in your own backyard. Revel in where you are.
And if you do go far, get lost while exploring a neighbourhood off your tourist map. Get food poisoning. Try the language. Nix the generic tourist photos. Make friends.