09/10/2013

Guest Interview n°49: Ed Templeton

In the occasion of his exhibition “A Gentle Collision” at Jerome Zodo Contemporary (until November 22nd), we met Ed Templeton, the versatile artist, professional skateboarder and founder/brand manager of the skateboard company Toy Machine. One of the cult figures of the US subculture, coming form the Southern California, tells us something more about his early years, his brilliant career and his perfect life, which he wouldn’t change for the world.

Who is Edward Templeton? If you have to describe yourself to someone who doesn’t know you, what would you say, which adjectives would you use?
It really depends on whom I’m meeting. I run a skateboard company, so I’m a business man, I’ve been a pro skateboarder all my life, since I was 18, so I’m also a skateboarder and also been doing art for a long time as well, so artist, skateboarder and business man. It depends on what hat I have to wear that day, these are the three words I use to say, but mostly skateboarder and artist.

To begin with the beginning, I’d like to ask you how it all started? The skateboard passion, the founding of Toy Machine and your artistic career.
It was 1985, I was around twelve/thirteen and finding skateboarding changed everything. I found the people around it, especially in the mid ’80s, they were mainly punk kids, and it wasn’t a cool thing to do as it is now. Skateboarding was a state of creative people and it is still full of creative people. I think Skateboarding in itself is a creative sort of thing. It is not a team sport, it is individual, there is no judgement, all sort of people can be good in different ways, there isn’t any standard way to be a good skateboarder, so the individuality and the creativity are involved in it as well.

The first kids I met when I found skateboarding were punk rock kids and I was scared, but they accepted me because I had a skateboard, which was the key, the opening. All I had to have was a skate. They were crazy kids. They said: “hey, come with us” and they gave me a tape of punk rock music and it just changed everything. I just found something that no one had. It was exclusive for me. Nobody at my school knew about this cool music and those cool guys cause it sounded like something weird.

It was soon after I discovered it, in 1990, that I turned professional skateboarder; it took me five years to become a professional; it was the same year that I started painting.


And when did you discover photography? Same period?
A little bit later. I’d been around photographers shooting pictures at me for the magazines. They always had their interesting cameras. I was interested in light, in how it works. I started learning from the people I was surrounded by. It was 1994; it took me four years before I really decided to go full on. I didn’t have a good camera, I took pictures while travelling, but in 1994 I really had a sort of epiphany: “What am I doing, I’m wasting four years of this amazing life, I’m travelling the world, I’m paid to skateboard, I’m around these people, the young, partying and going crazy. I should be documenting this because I’m the sober one”; I’ve never got drunk, took drugs or anything. I was the only one who was sober, so yea, I decided to take a camera and capture this, and then it turned to everything. That was my life! From that point I started creating a sort of archive.

Do you have any milestones or let’s say epiphanies? I mean, is there any person (real or fictional), book, movie, city that could be considered as a reference point or a source of inspiration in your life?
Yea, I mean again it comes from skateboarding. When I started getting into it, learning about its culture at large, like the magazines – I didn’t even know that there were magazines about skateboarding before – I found I was really fortunate as well. I mean, asking to every skater who the best street skateboarder of all time is… he is Mark Gonzales. A legend, he lived in the same beach where I grew up, so I got to see all tricks he did, and how he thought, he was crazy and he invented almost everything we do now; he had is own graphics on the skateboard and when I saw it, I decided: “If I have a chance to be pro, I would do that too. I wanna draw my own graphics!”, and I’ve been doing it since twenty years. So he had a big influence for me. Of course like in art, as a kid grown up in the suburbs, I hadn’t access to culture as the guys growing up in Los Angeles or especially in New York had. For me the culture came from the bookstores where I went to look at art books, and I found these books on Egon Schiele. When I was young I felt in love with that kind of work. I think that Egon Schiele inspired a lot of my early paintings… and David Hockney is another person who I really liked, his approach and his aesthetic. I was so enthusiastic about art, picture making, thinking about how a picture is built. All these kind of stuff is really interesting.

I’m also a photography book collector, and I think that photography more than other kind of art is about the book. You know, you hear about Picasso who has a famous show, a period of transition, but in photography you don’t hear about the exhibition, but you know about the book. For photography books are the greatest medium. Jim Goldenberg, Larry Clark, Peter Beard, some of those typical people representing the street photography… I can say, they write on the prints, make collages, cut the prints. It isn’t just about the perfect print, it’s mostly the opposite of those who print only and don’t touch the prints, but I love both, I mean, I strive to make a perfect image, but then if it’s not perfect you can fuck with it, you can do these things too.


What do you think about contemporary art? There are a lot of people convinced that everything has been already done in art, what’s your position?
Yes, in some ways everything has been done, but it’s all about the style approach, of course painting has been done before, but there’s so many different ways to do a painting, to approach a painting and its style. Actually I’m more worried about photography because sometime I found myself being attracted by something on the street that is almost a cliché now, everybody has already shot it before.

I mostly think about a way to approach photography in a new way because I’m still shooting in a very traditional way, I’m not doing anything revolutionary, I’m still shooting with a basic camera with film, the same things used 15 years ago. But when I present a work in a show, I try to do it in a different way. I have silkscreen, photographs; I have photographs with paintings, paintings on the background. These are the things I do… I have an archive and I think about how I can do it as an artist and not only photographer. I don’t worry about art. I think every generation has its artists; some people get forgotten, there are a lot of artists who get forgotten and a lot of artists who get discovered. But there is also a ridiculous side, ridiculous collectors and ridiculous artists doing crazy things that people buy and it’s all part of the game.

You mentioned that you are a bit skeptical of new technologies, is this the reason why you shoot analogue?
Well, I like analogue because the film looks better and it’s a privilege to be able to shoot films: it is so expensive and you have to be able to do it, and now, of course, everyone is switching digital so it is getting more interesting, it is like something new now because nobody does it. But then also Instagram is a tool; it is a powerful tool. I’ve found it, I’ve also discovered Facebook and they really help; I mean, if I want to promote a book or a show, that’s what really works now because it is what everyone is looking at. But I think I’m skeptical because I realize that everything you put on it gets out of control, can be altered, it can be duplicated and I try to make sure that I don’t put things that I want to keep for actions or for books. I think social media is a secondary thing but it helps, it is mostly a commercial tool to promote.

Do you still have any taboos?
Mmm, not really, I mean, the taboos are changing, I used to have a lot more sort of sex stuff, personal relationships stuff in my work and I found that most people just see that. You have like hundred something photos and the only one which people notice is the one with a penis, and you think: “fuck, a hundred photos and that is the only one you care about?” So I started to realize that sometimes the core of my message is not exactly the same one that the people are receiving, and that’s important to me as an artist. It is something to think about.

Could you tell us something regarding this show, and about the juxtaposition of the title words (Gentle/Collision)?
The title is the name of this piece, of this pyramid made of colourful photos, and for me it is a sort of gentle collision of painting and photography. This is the first time I was able to do a piece of the size of the wall. I had this idea of doing a big colourful pyramid; when this gallery invited me and I saw that they have big walls I said: “ok, now I can really do this piece” and this is the first time that I see it placed. My studio space isn’t big enough so I just had to make it and frame it and visualize it, so seeing it here to me is fun, you know, you have one idea and then you can work on it and you see it here. It is cool, I like it, and I’ll do it again sometimes.

Dulcis in fundo, could you make a list of the five things that make you feel great?
Travel, I love travelling, it always makes me feel great; knowing that you got a good photograph, I don’t always know, but sometimes you know it and it makes you feel good; really good vegan food; being with my wife of course… it’s hard to explain but there is a period when you do a show, it’s almost a personal period, it is when you end the last piece and you finish and it’s like the best feeling, a vision becomes clear, I have all my hands, everything fits, but it’s always a very short moment. After that the ball is on the other corner, people can look at it, respond or whatever they want… that’s my fifth one!

Monica Lombardi – Image courtesy: Portrait Vicky Trombetta, exhibition view from Jerome Zodo Contemporary courtesy of Luigi Acerra 
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23/09/2013

Ragnar Kjartansson | The Visitors

Do you remember the boat that slowly glides on the Venice lagoon, nearby the Arsenale, with a crew of professional musicians playing the notes by Kjartan Sveinsson? The kinetic sound-sculpture S.S. Hangover, presented at the 55th Biennale, is just one of the performances by the versatile Ragnar Kjartansson (b. 1976, Reykjavík), the Icelandic artist who exploits film, music, video installations, drawing and paintings to express opposed feelings. Kjartansson’s unique works, full of drama and humor, sadness and happiness, genuineness and artificiality, are based on diverse cultural influences (Islander traditions, lyric music and folk contemporary culture) and loop repetition of gestures and images. His theatrical devices very often imply the artist’s presence, acting as a rock star, a whimsical son or a rider, always characterized by a pronounced romantic, passionate and ironic flair.



For his solo exhibition at Hangar Bicocca, curated by Andrea Lissoni and Heike Munder (Director of the Migros Museum für Gegenwartskunst), Kjartansson displays – for the first time in Italy – The Visitors, a captivating and emotional video installation. Inspired by the namesake album by the ABBA, the work is made by nine full-scale videos, featuring musicians (all artist’s friends) playing different instruments and singing the same song “Feminine Ways”, composed by the artist on a poem written by Kjartansson’s ex-partner Ásdís Sif Gunnarsdóttir.

The nine stages – a library, a kitchen, a bathroom, a bedroom, a studio… – shot in a decaying, 19th century house in New York, are projected at the same time, creating a choral performance that reflects on emotional bonds with the artist’s distinctive poetical language and ability to involve the viewers, capturing their imagination and attention.

The Visitors is presented in collaboration with Migros Museum für Gegenwartskunst and will run until 17th November 2013.

Monica Lombardi 
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16/09/2013

Mounir Fatmi | Witnesses Are Accomplices

Mounir Fatmi (b. 1970, lives and works between Paris and Tangier) is a well-known Moroccan-born artist who exploits film, drawing, painting, sculpture, installation and linguistic games – pushing the boundaries of all these media – to investigate and underline geopolitical, socio-economical and cultural dividers in different contexts. Thanks to the use of an extremely direct and visual language, along with a strong ironic tension and dark humor, Fatmi explores the complexity of both western and eastern worlds, pointing out their respective belief structures and ideologies. Working on the issues of identity and alterity, he refers to the worldwide current events, making use of traditional and contemporary symbols of religions (Christianity, Judaism and Islam) and power systems to reveal their fallacies and stereotypes. As an exercise of free thinking, the works by Fatmi frankly present to the viewers some selected objects, which embody and help to create metaphors of people’s doubts, fears, prejudices, or easily of their awareness, leading the viewers to a deeper reflection: jumping poles, horse jumping hurdles, books, VHS Cassettes, unwound films and intertwined cables are just some of the devices that recur in Fatmi’s works.


In Pique-nique sous embargo (Picnic under embargo, 2003) the artist seems to give birth to a place of encounter, apparently recreational, which conveys instead political and humane themes (as suggested by the title) the viewers are encouraged to think about; while in Save Manhattan 01 (2004), he re-creates Manhattan’s pre-9/11 skyline through the use of religious books – reflecting their silhouettes as shadows on the wall –, all published after September 11th with the exception of the two volumes of the Koran that emblematically stand for the Twin towers.

The electric chair of Gardons Espoir (Keeping Faith, 2007), made of VHS cassettes that design a minimal and optical composition, is in dialogue with the Warhol’s famous namesake, provocative work, generating ambiguity – the centre gets lost –, and recalling our ambivalent relation with death: fear and obsessive fascination. Arabian and Western culture meet in Maximum Sensation (2010) where fifty skateboards were covered with Islamic prayer rugs representing cultural hybridity that he personally experienced, but with a kind of blasphemy. Among the numerous works, which are worth to be considered, we cannot avoid mentioning Les Printemps Perdus (The Lost Spring, April 2011), an extremely essential and poetic installation consisting of the 22 flags of the Arab League placed against the wall. All the flags are sustained by poles except from the Tunisian and Egyptian ones that are on two brooms, referring to the revolts and the falls of Ben Ali and Mubarak; events seen as “domestic works” through which sweeping up the dirt, cleaning the context to renovate and restore: “Who’s next? Where else needs to be swept clean? Where is the rubbish hidden?”. Evil is contemporary and everywhere, even close to you, just remember to face it now and then.


The works by Mounir Fatmi are currently on view at: Palais des Evêques (thru 11th November); The Mediterranean Biennale (thru 30th September); MAC (thru 20th October); MAXXI (thru 29th September); Keitelman Gallery (thru 31st October); Art International Istanbul (thru 18th September), and more has to come.

Monica Lombardi 
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16/09/2013

Robert Mapplethorpe: Fashion Show

Robert Mapplethorpe is one of those photographers who has really defined an era. Back in the New York of 70s and 80s, he portrayed the beauty of the subversive and scandal by shooting people like Grace Jones, Andy Warhol and Patti Smith. A special exhibition at London’s Alison Jacques gallery has started on 11th September and focuses on a different angle of his art, especially tracing his relationship with the fashion system. By working for Vogue Paris and Vogue Italia, he loved to take pictures of real identities, including the fetish and the sexual side of them. His life was all about glamour and beauty but never in a corny way.


“Robert Mapplethorpe: Fashion Show” has been organized and co-curated by his very first lover, the model David Croland, who wants to showcase more about Mapplethorpe’s personality and interests. For this reason, Croland himself has prepared a commentary to describe who Robert Mapplethorpe really was and what he was actually trying to demonstrate with his job.

This is a perfect – and rare – occasion to discover an iconic artist from a different point of view. There is also a special book “Mapplethorpe Polaroids”, edited by Sylvia Woolf and published by Prestel, that is currently available at libraries in UK and US.

The show will last until 5th October.

Francesca Crippa – Images © Robert Mapplethorpe Foundation. Used by Permission. Courtesy The Robert Mapplethorpe Foundation, New York and Alison Jacques Gallery, London. Silver Gelatin prints: Paris Fashion / Dovanna, 1984, Italian Vogue, 1984, French Vogue, 1986, Melody / Shoe, 1987. 
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09/09/2013

Legal Fictions by Carey Young At Migros Museum

Can a legal contract be a form of art? Carey Young (b. 1979, Lusaka, Zambia, lives and works in London) for her first solo exhibition in Switzerland at the Migros Museum für Gegenwartskunst mainly focuses on this issue, and presents an overview of her earlier and new works, which analyses the ways the language of law and the legal and corporate systems of power affect people’s lives. Exploiting video, photography, performance and installation, and availing of legal advisers’ support, Young uses law as a mean of conceptual art expression. With a scientific method and language the artist enters (and helps the viewers to enter) the contractual world, bringing the forms of authority into discussion and revealing – while not being short of humor – their lacunas and ambiguities.

Among Young’s recent works, Declared Void II (2013) is a provocative wall installation with a line that delimits an area reporting a fictional agreement related to politics and immigration: “By entering the zone created by this drawing, and for the period you remain there, you declare that you are a citizen of the United States of America” (Ed. Note: the published image refers to the previous work Consideration, Declared Void, 2004-5); By and Between (After Bernd and Hilla Becher) (2013) consists of two photographs: an original Becher’s piece from Migros’ collection hung side-by-side a copy made by the artist and accompanied by pairs of words referring to legal documents; We the People (after Pierre Cavallet) (2013) reflects on the relation between law and performance with a large-scale picture that quotes the famous judge and great drawer Pierre Cavallet, depicting a judge’s robe and wig hung in a garden on a washing line. 
Young’s law works are displayed here along with previous projects such as The Body Techniques (2007), a series of pictures featuring the artist, alone and dressed in a suit, acting in uninhabited building sites – reworking some performance-based works by Conceptual art, including pieces by Richard Long, Bruce Nauman, Valie Export – that reflect the international corporate control and culture.


Besides Carey Young’s exhibition, which will run until 10th November, Migros Museum presents Collection on Display, a group show devoted to the psychological aspects of space and the pathologies related to it (agoraphobia, claustrophobia, acrophobia), featuring works by Monica Bonvicini, Heidi Bucher, Tom Burr, Urs Fischer, Pamela Rosenkranz, Markus Schinwald, Cathy Wilkes. 
Once again, the opening season of the museum doesn’t disappoint the expectations.

Monica Lombardi – – Many thanks to Migros Museum. Images © Carey Young. Courtesy of the artist, Paula Cooper Gallery, New York. Sammlung Migros Museum für Gegenwartskunst 
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26/08/2013

St. Moritz Art Masters 2013

As every year, since six years on, SAM – St. Moritz Art Masters, one of the key summer events of the international contemporary art system, is back to the marvelous Swiss Engadin region. Conceived by the tycoon Monty Shadow and curated by the well-known curator and art dealer Reiner Opoku, the festival, as in its previous editions, hosts in thirty different locations — public and private venues such as museums, galleries, luxury hotels and open air spaces scattered around the territory —, free-admission collective and solo shows. The artistic path starts from St. Moritz dorf with the bronze, childlike-imaginary sculptures by Donald Baechler and goes on with the Swiss sculptor, photographer, drawer, video and installation maker Olaf Breuning placed in the pedestrian area. The roster of artists is long and rich counting names of the like of Robert Wilson, Jan Fabre, Paul Thek, Enzo Cucchi, Claudia Losi at the Zouz Monica De Cardenas’ branch, and the photography masters Patrick Demarchelier, Mimmo Jodice, Peter Lindbergh, Joel Meyerowitz and Ferdinando Scianna, just to mention a few.


The guest country of this edition is China, whose recent artistic evolution is celebrated through the presentation of works by established and emerging artists coming from the Sichuan province such as Yang Mian, Wang Haichuan and Li Yi Fan, and the more recognized Chinese “stars” of the artistic international panorama Ai Wei Wei, Fang Lijun, Su-Mei Tse (Golden Lion at Venice Biennale 2003), and the Pulitzer winner Liu Heung Shing.

The festival, which will run until 1st September, offers a variety of entertainment and collateral events. Among them: the St. Moritz Masters Foundation Night, the traditional charity party for gathering founds to sustain the foundation, scheduled 30th August; the Walk Of Art, a guided tour through St. Moritz, Zuoz and Sils to visit the highlights of the event; and the E.A.T (Engadin Art Talks), a symposium about the issue “Ghosts and the uncanny” related to the inspirational mystery of the Engadin territory, arranged by Cristina Bechtler, and curated by Hans Ulrich Obrist, co-director of the Serpentine Gallery and Beatrix Ruf, director of the Kunsthalle Zurich. Exhibitions, talks, workshops, and cultural events enliven the summer of the Upper Engadin offering an unequalled mix of art and nature. If you are still on holiday, just think about it!

Monica Lombardi 
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12/08/2013

Summer 2013: Tips for Art Trips

Palais de Tokyo, Paris

Nouvelles Vagues is a huge project arranged by the Palais de Tokyo in collaboration with 30 galleries spread out around Paris and 21 international young curators from 13 countries, presenting the up-to-date artistic practices from worldwide. The large-scale event includes 53 exhibitions, which underline, without a fixed theme, the new waves of contemporary art, retracing at the same time some of its most significant steps of the last century. Among the shows, featured within the amazing French building, there are the Méthode Jacobson by Marc Bembekoff, The Black Moon by Sinziana Ravini, the Champs Élysé́es by Julie Boukobza and La Fin De La Nuit (Partie 1) by Martha Kirszenbaum, an homage to the brilliant, experimental scriptwriter and filmmaker Kenneth Anger, just to mention a few. 
If you end up in Paris by September 9th, this is definitely an unmissable exhibition!

Mart, Rovereto

If you are looking for a place in Italy to spend some days during the summer, to find a wide range of sporting and wine and food events, along with high level cultural and artistic locations, Rovereto is definitely one of the possible answers. Situated in Trentino Alto-Adige, in the northern of Italy, the city hosts, besides natural environments and historical buildings, the Contemporary and Modern Art Museum of Trento and Rovereto (Mart) offering always a worthwhile schedule of exhibitions. Among its current proposals we mention There and again, Souvenir de voyage, an experience for those who want to cross the boundaries of time and space. The show, through photographs, video and installations, retraces the changes in our way of traveling from the 18th century until present days. From the old masters Henri Béchard, Louis De Clercq, William Henry Fox Talbot to contemporary Patrick Tuttofuoco, Giulio Delvè, Julio Paz, Luca Vitone, passing through the brilliant works by Bruno Munari, Emilio Isgrò and Luigi Ghirri, the show presents a series of works that retrieve from memory and reflect on the present. 
On view during all summer there are also the exhibitions Controcultura tra America e Italia, Adalberto Libera, The ideal city and The magnificent obsession. Enjoy your trip!

Monica Lombardi 
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29/07/2013

Candice Breitz | More Real Than Real

Candice Breitz (b. 1972, Johannesburg) is an artist, who dedicated most of her artistic research to examine and demonstrate the impact and influences of mass media on the contemporary society. Exploiting fragments of images and video taken from the global entertainment industry – she “steals” icons from the media culture, from Hollywood to Bollywood and Nollywood films, passing through television and pop music –, Breitz reveals the cognitive machinery and the psycho-sociological implications of the popular consumer culture. Taking familiar elements out of their context, distorting and re-combining them into isolated situations, the artist creates puzzling portraits that allow us to observe the representations of the identities of human beings and their instability, taking the right distance from them.

Through the use of simulacra and without expressing any direct stances, the works by Candice Breitz turn contemporary communication iconography comprehensible and accessible, giving the audience the basis of a critical point of view to reflect on how we perceive ourselves. 
Using photography and video the artist re-creates a hyper-real universe dominated by astute parallels with our “real” world; a universe where lyrics are reduced to nonsense syllables that represent the infantilization and involution of the mass entertainment as in the Babel Series (1999), or where movies are trapped into fragments of their performances that completely unsettle the narration of the original films, as in Soliloquy Trilogy (2001): Soliloquy (Clint), Soliloquy (Jack), Soliloquy (Sharon) – the three movies tackled by Breitz are Dirty Harry with Clint Eastwood, The Witches of Eastwick with Jack Nicholson and Basic Instinct with Sharon Stone –, which compares the star’s appeal with the force of storytelling.

Mother + Father(2005) is a video installation composed of two parts, one dedicated to the “mothers” featuring Faye Dunaway, Susan Sarandon, Meryl Streep, Diane Keaton, Julia Roberts and Shirley MacLaine, and the other one to the “fathers” with Tony Danza, Dustin Hoffman, Harvey Keitel, Steve Martin, Donald Sutherland, Jon Voight. Deleting the context of the movies and cutting different shots of them, the artist put on show the representation of parents according to feelings and rules imposed by the screen. Among the artistic, somehow sociological, experiments by Candice Breitz there is another trilogy, The Woods (2012) that included The Audition, The Rehearsal and The Interview shot in Los Angeles, Mumbai and Lagos. These works come from the idea of observing children struggling with the movie world, underling their differences and analogies with adults, and returning to the issue of the interview as a way to create a portrait as close as possible to the real nature of the interviewed person, or at least to the particular mask worn in that specific moment by him/her. 
Candice Breitz is one of the numerous artists (all women) exhibited in different locations in Arezzo for the project Icastica 2013. If you end up there during the summer, don’t forget to have a look around.

Monica Lombardi 
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23/07/2013

The Spirit of Utopia at Whitechapel Gallery

Is it legitimate to ask the art world to contribute to social, cultural, political and economic change? If so, how can it publicly contribute to such change? Throughout the last century artists have often asked themselves probably the exact same question, thus developing forms of artistic practice that actively challenged the preconceptions of our society. Even though the concept of public art might have often been misunderstood, in its most eloquent outputs it has definitely proven that the art world can actively contribute to social change. It is necessary to notice that, when art does engage with the problems of the society, it often does so using the tools of design, as can be seen in the latest exhibition currently on display at Whitechapel Gallery in London.

Titled “The Spirit of Utopia”, the show departs from Ernst Broch’s seminal book “The Principle of Hope”, elaborating ten proposals for possible future development of our society. As can be seen from the installations exhibited, the artists and collectives involved have channeled their artistic practice through design tools, which often proves to be remarkably adequate in addressing such socially relevant issues as the ones this show tries to investigate. Hence, the exhibition includes projects like “Soul Manufacturing Corporation” by Theaster Gates, which stages an on-site pottery making laboratory, training apprentices and investigating skills, teaching and crafts as contemporary re-enactments of Morris’ ideals embodied in labor.

Our relationship with the nature, on the other hand, is addressed by the Londoner collective Wayward Plants, who “fuses new possibilities in food production with scientific narratives, from futuristic seed gardens to sending plants to space”. The show investigates nearly all aspects of contemporary life, such as alternative economies – with Time/Bank platform and Superflex collective, psychological health with “Sanatorium” project by Pedro Reyes, or the role of cultural institutions through the work of Peter Liversidge.


Even though the show lacks concrete proposals for solving problems our society will surely run into in the near future, “The Spirit of Utopia” nevertheless offers a clever insights on the potential of art and creative practices in dealing with issues that go beyond the boundaries of the art world itself. “The Spirit of Utopia” runs until the 5th of September 2013 at Whitechapel Gallery, London.

Rujana Rebernjak 
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22/07/2013

Clothing For Art

There is a lot of talk about art and fashion, and rightly so, since these two fields seem to be connected at least from the beginning of the 20th century, when artists like Sonia Delaunay (Ukraine, 1885 – Paris, 1979) and Oskar Schlemmer (Stuttgard, 1888 – Baden-Baden, 1943) designed haute couture creations, up to this day when important fashion houses are more and more attracted by art, creating collaborations among the two different worlds popping up like mushrooms.


But this is not precisely what we want to talk about today. Our interest is more related to a less-considered aspect of modern and contemporary art and focuses on artists, who use clothes as means of expression. Analysing textures, colours, shapes, and, above all, psychological and political connotations of clothing, many artists have exploited its communicative aspects to look into the societies, referring to sexuality, gender, group identity, war and naturalism, thus facing public and intimate threats and experiences.


The Felt Suit by Joseph Beuys (Krefeld, 1921 – Düsseldorf, 1986) is part of a series of 100 exemplars tailored from one of his own suits (produced without buttons and with longer sleeves and pant legs similar to a uniform) and entirely made of felt, a fabric that the artist considered to be protective, “an element of warmth” for human beings. A belief coming from his experience during the Second World War – he was a pilot of the Luftwaffe –, when he was after an air crash rescued by nomads, who covered him with animal fat and wrapped him in felt following ancient medical practices.


Louise Bourgeois (Paris, 1911 – New York, 2010) is another artist, who plumbed the depths of memory to create unusual sculptures made of embroidered handkerchiefs and women’s dresses hung with butcher hooks or imprisoned in unsettling cells together with bones and protuberances similar to breasts and penises. “When I was growing up, all the women in my house were using needles. I’ve always had a fascination with the needle, the magic power of the needle. The needle is used to repair damage. It’s a claim to forgiveness”, she said, and in fact needlecraft determined a remarkable role in her work. The knitted sweaters and balaclavas with patterns representing playboy bunnies, swastikas and hammer-sickle compositions, midway between decoration and social criticism by Rosemarie Trockel (Schwerte, Germany, 1952); the Worker’s Favourite Clothes Worn While S/He Worked created by the Bosnian-French Bojan Sarcevic (Belgrade, 1974) thanks to the help of fifteen people (bakers, bricklayers, cooks, carpenters etc.), who accepted to wore the clothes of a fashion designer while working, leaving them dirty and ready to be exhibited to pay tribute to manual work; the uncomfortable dresses by Jana Sterbak (Prague, 1955) made of flesh and cables; or the funny shapeless jumpers by Erwin Wurm (Styria, Austria, 1954) are just some examples of works realised turning ordinary garments into artistic media to express diverse, sometimes primitive, feelings, concepts and poetics. 
Art as fashion has its trends.


Monica Lombardi 
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