In the midst of the brand-obsessed 1990s, the now famous yet incognito designer Martin Margiela emerged. The Artist is Absent is a new short documentary from the Yoox Group discussing the Belgian designer and his contribution to the world of fashion. Initially screened at the Tribeca Film Festival, the twelve minute documentary directed by Alison Chernick, profiles the distinguished designer elaborating on the complexity of his character.
The 1990s were a time in fashion when designers’ personalities were much part of the reason why a brand gained popularity. Martin Margiela refused to give into the limelight and in doing so became a figure that stood for rebellion against what can be viewed as the domestication of creativity. Using archive footage in combination with current interviews with his peers and collaborators, the documentary brings to light and elaborates on Martin Margiela’s decision to be anonymous. In today’s world of social media, it seems improbable to pull off again, for a brand’s image seems almost intertwined with its head designer’s persona, making a concept such as Maison Martin Margiela interesting to ponder. For Martin Margiela it was always about the clothes and nothing more.
The documentary showcases the early Margiela shows, children running up and down the catwalk while the audience is packed into a tight space. Models are wearing garments made from plastic, coat hangers and other unconventional materials. As is pointed out in the documentary, the 1990s ware the era of the supermodel. However, Margiela shunned this approach making his models often cover their faces, so that the focus would always remain on the garments being presented. The irony of the story is that by remaining anonymous Margiela instead became mythical and an icon, obtaining a power that is illuminated in The Artist is Absent. He wasn’t the first to deconstruct fashion. However, he was one of the first to push deconstruction to another level: to a point where he presented a way to turn almost nothing into something.
Victoria Edman – Images courtesy of Yoox Group
