“I’m not strange, weird, off, nor crazy, my reality is just different from yours.” ― Lewis Carroll, Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland & Through the Looking Glass.
The quote helps to illustrate the thought behind a new exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. An exhibition that examines orientalism note through the Western eyes. It acknowledges the notion that orientalism or the influences from Eastern culture are always integrated through a Western perspective. This is a key element in the “China Through the Looking Glass” exhibit. The old and the new are at center stage, with a not towards conscious processes cultural appropriation and how the essence of the inspiration was often lost in translation. From as early as the 16th century, Europe has had contact with China, a contact leading the West to become captivated by mysterious items from the East. It was a fascination that would inspire many fashion designers, among which, notably, Paul Poiret.
Every room of the exhibition is meant to make the impression of a movie scene. There are cinematic clips on display in each gallery allowing the viewers to learn about different Chinese influences such as the Mao suit as well as the silk trade and the collaboration of Chinese and American films with actress Anna May Wong in the center as a muse to designers such as Yves Saint Laurent.
High fashion is contrasted with Chinese costumes, porcelains, and other artefacts, including films, to expose Western reflection on Chinese images. Milliner Stephen Jones has created headwear for every mannequin, with hats and tiaras inspired from antique Chinese plates, teapots and vases. The exhibition as a whole features over 140 pieces of haute couture and avant-garde art in conjunction with Chinese art. This includes works by Armani, Cristobal Balenciaga, John Galliano, Roberto Cavalli and many more, provoking the visitor to take a closer look at our inspiration and grasp the concept of cultural differences.
The Metropolitan Museum of Art’s “China: Through the Looking Glass” exhibition is currently on display and will run until August 16, 2015.
Victoria Edman
