03/09/2015

A Bigger Park: Celebrating Difference

Over the past 10 years, skateboarding and surfing magazines have evolved to become a particular niche of independent publications, mostly characterized by endless rows of images featuring palm trees, sunsets, angsty youth or abandoned, suburban streets. If there is anything like an overexploited genre, than these ‘subculture’ magazines – in their wish to escape the canons of ‘normal’ life – have become its prime example. With a desire to approach and talk about this coveted lifestyle with in a more honest note, the German creative director Christian Hundertmark has created A Bigger Park magazine. With a beautiful design, the magazine serves not only a space to sharpen one’s creativity, it is also a platform for like-minded individuals – designers, surfers, artists, skateboarders, musicians or artisans – to build a community based on exchange of ideas, thoughts and stories told through the pages of the magazine. As such, A Bigger Park smartly avoids the clichés of the genre as it doesn’t worship “a combination of different lifestyles, but [shows] a lifestyle based on worshipping difference”.

The Blogazine – Images courtesy of A Bigger Park 
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02/09/2015

Anita Hirlekar: Tradition Crafts Fashion

True fashion talents rarely have time to waste – as soon as they graduate, the most innovative fashion designers usually either establish their own brands or are lucky enough to work for some of the greatest fashion houses. One example is Anita Hirlekar who, after graduating from the renowned Central Saint Martins in London in 2014, launched her own label. Today Anita Hirlekar is one out of four designers that have been selected to present at Fashion Scout’s Ones To Watch programme for Spring/Summer 2016 this September in a showcase that will take place at Freemasons Hall in London’s Covent Garden.

As a designer that has gained experience at notable Christian Dior Couture and Diane Von Furstenberg, the Iceland native quickly started building her own legacy. Hirlekar’s attention is drawn to color and texture; therefore she gets inspired from art, photography and film when contemplating her designs. The use of colour in her work is all about combining unexpected shades together with different textures within the framework of an apparently unbalanced style. This process generally adds a surprising angle to her collections, resulting in poetic but modern lines, with handcrafted fabrics at the center of attention.

Growing up in Iceland, Hirlekar naturally inherited an interest and affection in handcrafts. At a young age she was taught to crochet, felt, learned about woodwork and ceramics, all techniques that have historically distinguished Icelandic culture. The young designer has shown the importance of nurturing these techniques by modernizing them so they wouldn’t get lost over time. The technique Hirlekar mainly uses is a type of felting, which unites large strips of draped fabric together with crushed and pleated textiles in order to produce voluminous pieces. By integrating the textile contraction from the felting process, the base creates folds, drapes and volume, which could not be created by another technique, adding a unique quality to each garment. Her choice of incorporating a felt technique in her designs is not that surprising considering her background. Neither is her need for her assortment of colour, considering her personal, colourful. However, the combination of heritage and personal research in her work is always a welcome result.

Victoria Edman 
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01/09/2015

Pieces: Fragments of Design at Soane Museum

Observed from the future, all objects of design are just fragments, small elements of other lives, times and stories. But objects are never mute, they tell stories about the past, and perhaps even show glimpses of how we might live in the future. As collections of – more or less coherent – fragments from the past, museums can often serve as a starting point for imaginary explorations of just how design might be perceived if it is left unfinished, incomplete, hiding a story only half told. Finding precisely a collection of similar, fragmentary objects at Soane Museum, London-based designers Bernadette Deddens and Tetsuo Mukai have called five designers to interpret or complete the collection’s stories.

Titled “Pieces”, the exhibition departs from the incoherent collection gathered by architect Sir John Soane throughout his life – books, paintings, vases, sculptures -, collected at his private residence turned museum in 1837, to build contemporary narratives about the fragmentary nature of design. “What is interesting for us is that most, actually pretty much all, of the pieces in the museum, are just pieces. Broken bits, sections and fragments,” says Mukai. “Some of them come with a label or explanation, like a title on a painting’s frame or a plaque on a sculpture, but most of them are just there, hanging on the wall with no explanation. We like that because it makes you speculate and try to imagine what these things are. You have to fill the gap yourself.”

Mukai and Deddens have invited Gemma Holt, Sam Jacob Studio, Paul Elliman, Peter Marigold, together with their own Study O Portable, to fill in those gaps. While some projects are almost literal interpretation of the subject – like Study O Portable’s “Building Blocks” which consists of individual pieces which function only when combined, other explore the meaning of “Pieces” in more lateral ways. Paul Elliman, for example, displayed “Low Currency”, a collection of small discs that represent coins, inviting the viewer to decide how we give values to things. As such, Elliman’s project is particularly interesting in the context of the exhibition, as it asks – how will objects that designers make be seen a 100 years from today? Perhaps it is precisely the question that every designer should start with.

Rujana Rebernjak 
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