Chanel has done it and so has Stella McCartney. And now Hugo Boss can be added to the list of brand’s that look at the wider picture through fashion by deciding not to use fur in their collection. The political statements made by designers on matters such as feminism, environmental causes and human rights are many. As the impact of fashion increases, it is both affecting and having an effect on everything, from economy to being a very public and visible interpreter of today’s society. Politics has grown to become a more common part of the global fashion scene, but the phenomenon is not new. The Swedish brand Mah-Jong had a clear left wing political vision at the moment of their foundation in the 1960s. They wanted their clothes to be wearable, beautiful and available for the masses, but most importantly, produced in fair conditions and made of natural materials. These values became synonymous with Mah-Jong and their clothes have been used to state messages long after the brand died.
Although it is clear that fashion has been linked to politics before, it might not have been in the same commercial way as it is today. It is interesting that it is not just upcoming labels or unknown designers that are making public claims for political correctness – it is well established brands such as Chanel, Hugo Boss and Stella McCartney to mention the names outlined above. So why are we seeing this now and from them? The explanation can be found in the fact that fashion houses and designers today have their own channels to communicate with the masses through social media, and their impact and possibilities to influence their followers and fans has also increased. Another possible explanation could be their aim to connect their brands with new values in order to become more contemporary, but it can also be a result of a longer approach and a determination to really make a change within a specific field. Stella McCartney said no to the use of fur and leather before it became trendy, before she was established, which speaks for a more authentic engagement. Though, we must admit, sometimes it is hard to tell whether political engagements is just another term for PR strategy or a real commitment. The truth certainly lies somewhere in between.
Hanna Cronsjö