07/05/2015

Archives of Life – Armani/Silos

When, in 1983, Diana Vreeland dedicated an exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Arts in New York to Yves Saint Laurent, she managed to bring contemporary fashion to the attention of the art world. Her choice to show the work of one living designer in an established institution has set sail to most of fashion exhibitions organised from then on. The action was groundbreaking mostly because it brought contemporary objects, the kind of objects you could find on the streets and actually buy, within the almost sacred walls of a museum. Giorgio Armani was dedicated a retrospective at the Guggenheim Museum in New York in 2000. The retrospective, curated by Germano Celant and Harold Koda and designed by Robert Wilson, was conceptually inspired by the one Vreeland dedicated to YSL and reflected on the practice of Armani and his contribution not only to fashion, but to culture in a wider sense. The exhibition then moved to Bilbao, Berlin, London, Tokyo, Shanghai, and Milan, always adding new paragraphs to the discourse started in New York.

Fifteen years after the first exhibition, Giorgio Armani inaugurated his own museum in Milan. Though a ‘museum’ is not its proper name. Mr Armanis decided to shape his museum in the form of the living archive and to call it ‘silos’, recalling the storage units in which food was stowed. The collection of almost 5-hundred outfits puts on stage the 40 years of activity of the brand, individuating four main themes that have characterised the production: daywear, exoticisms, colour-schemes and light. His is an archive that is not organised chronologically, but as a reflection on the inspirations, individuating paths and creating sentimental families of outfits to guide the audience to the understanding of his most iconic designs. Each corner can be read singularly, and still fits into a wider discourse that visually communicates a recurrent thought, a feeling. The dimension of time passing is intentionally lost, in favour of a transverse crossing of the history of the fashion house, which is also the story of a man’s life.

The clothes are displayed without context and stripped of their narrative apparatus – advertising campaign, sketches, fashion-shows, shootings. This corollary can be found in the digital archive, on the third floor, which is open to public and holds almost 4000 records, between technical descriptions of all the items, cultural references and links to art and fashion history. To think and build a whole museum dedicated to the practice of one designer is different from curating a temporary exhibition. Both of them deal with time: the first is set into a well-defined period and the message it holds becomes a memory after its ending, while the second has to resist time and challenge its course, always having something to say in its relatively fixed form. It is only in this way that the museum, rather than being a static institution, becomes a breathing organism, bearing and supporting always new and fresh interpretations.

Marta Franceschini 
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06/05/2015

Through the Lens of Elmer Batters at Taschen LA

Elmer Batters was dubbed the Dean of Leg Art for his unique approach to photographing women’s legs and feet, but while his work brought solace to legions of foot fetishists, the courts called it dangerously perverse and hounded him his whole life. “I felt that people almost saw me as un-American for not mooning over large mammaries,” he said. Elmer Batters (1919 – 1997) served aboard a submarine in World War II where he became aware that his sexual tastes were different from his shipmates. Following his discharge he married his first leg model, settled in Rancho Palas Verdes, and made a career photographing women with an emphasis on legs and feet.

Featuring over 200 original works, an exhibition at Taschen Gallery in LA, showcases the work of Batters together with Eric Stanton. Curated by Dian Hanson and Benedikt Taschen, Bizarre Life – The Art of Elmer Batters & Eric Stanton brings these artists together for the first time, creating a forum to explore the origins of our current sexual autonomy while raising questions of power and dominance, sexual freedom and sexual repression, and examines their far reaching effects on contemporary art.

The Blogazine – Images courtesy of Taschen 
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05/05/2015

A Conversation with Two Generations of Craftsmen

Marco and Ivano are not only a generation apart – between the young Venice-based designer and his dad stands a whole world of values and modes of being, brought together by their mutual dedication to craftsmanship and the grace of making. While Marco approached craft through a desire to deepen his knowledge of design (together with Lorenzo Mason, he co-founded Tankboys design studio) and the understanding of the material culture that surrounds him, for Ivano it was less a choice than the course of life, a path he embarked on when he was only 14 years old. Here, the two generations of craftsmen discuss the meaning of making and how it might shape the future.

Ivano, we know you are an amazing master craftsman, but we never got to know what led you to become a woodworker. It would be nice to hear your story…
I started working when I was 10 years old, initially helping my father build our family home, and later with small building jobs, I also repaired bicycles and worked as a butcher, until I arrived at a bigger company here in Jesolo, my town, when I was 14. It wasn’t a simple woodworking workshop – it was a construction company and it even raised livestock. So while learning how to work with wood – with a craftsman who was by no means gentle and kind with young artisans – I also did may other jobs. After leaving this company, I changed a couple of workshops, until coming to MALS, where I worked until my retirement, working on projects that spanned from bars in the Veneto region of Italy, to work for the Vatican, in Austria, Paris, Israel.

Ivano, what do you think is the biggest gap between artisans of your generation and the younger ranks of designers/makers working today?
I believe the biggest gap today is caused by education and the evolution of new technologies. Young generations don’t have the dedication, the mental concentration and the passion to learn the trade. They are more concentrated on their phones and on making money, rather than on learning how to use one’s hands and to think. Nowadays, the schools give you information, but what lacks is the knowledge, the ability to make – the knowledge that comes from using one’s hands and hence the head that leads the process. Everyone is a robot now and copies everyone. When I was young, the crafts schools were extremely strict, it was very easy to fail exams and copying was in no way allowed.

Ivano, it seems you are quite disillusioned with younger generations. Then what do you feel does the future of craftsmanship look like?
I believe craftsmanship certainly has a future. Despite younger generations being reluctant in learning how to make things with their hands, there is a return to crafts. It is a curve inherent in the development of the contemporary world – we are at its peak, slowly preparing for a return to a more traditional, authentic relationship with the world that surrounds us, where crafts will play a central role. And it is already visible with young practitioners like Marco.

Marco, could you describe the project you made together with your dad a bit: what led its creation, what is the reasoning behind the project and why do you feel it is relevant today?
First of all, I wouldn’t say it is relevant today, at least not for ‘the real world’. But it is extremely relevant for us as a design collective, because it is a form of learning, of education. It is a reflection on what designing an object means when one has a limited amount of tools on his or her disposal. The idea of the project came about from a desire (a fairly useless desire, at that) to build with one’s hands objects entirely made of discarded steel tubes. It was a desire to reproduce Marcel Breuer’s chairs today, with the metal discarded by the industry that produced Marce Breuer’s chairs. It is not a tribute to Breuer, but a reflection on his work today – a process of learning from history, from his path. The title of the project “Connecting Dots – with a Riveter” reveals this metaphoric idea of a connection, an intrinsic link with the past that no designer can forgo. Design is made of links and connections.

Could you explain the relationship between you and Ivano – how does the conceptual idea behind your project meet his knowledge as a craftsman? How did he approach a project that is completely different from what he usually does?
Ivano’s approach could be simply summed up as ‘intuitive’. He acts following his intuition – undoubtedly coming from decades of experience – independently from the material he uses. As Richard Sennet has eloquently said, an artisan perhaps may not be good with words, he may not be able to explain clearly how he has made his objects, but that nevertheless does not mean he is not able to make them – things simply come about through this silent knowledge of craft. It could be defined as pure instinct, but it can only be described that way if we take into account all the years of passionate, dedicated work. An artisan is by definition creative – he solves problems with wit and intuition. That said, since I was little, my dad has taught me how to use my hands, how to make things. This is why, as a design practitioner, I perfectly agree with what Enzo Mari has said: practice comes before and leads theory – it should never be the contrary.

Marco, what do you think are the difficulties and dynamics in translating the tacit knowledge of craftsmanship from older generations to young designers, who are often educated and approach the profession with a completely different set of methodologies and tools?
I have to repeat what my father has said and what may seem banal: today we are using more with the computer than with our hands, and hence, our minds. Especially in Italy, there seems to be a sort of a critical distance from this uninhibited manual work. Designers are prone to creating an object perhaps even without understanding the complexities of its production. Design should return to its origins, and be more intricately linked with production processes and less concerned with appearances.

Interview by Rujana Rebernjak 
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04/05/2015

Style Suggestions: Minimalist

Simplicity is the key so minimize your wardrobe this season, with block colours and straight silhouettes. These pieces will transcend from year to year, so investing in something special will be worth the dent in the credit card.

Jacket: Jil Sander, Dress: Calvin Klein, Purse: Stella McCartney, Shoes: Christopher Kane, Sunglasses: Acne Studios, Necklace: Chloé

Styling by Vanessa Cocchiaro 

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04/05/2015

Space, Time and Context: Reading Luxury at the V&A

For any practitioner committed to the idea of design as a socially responsible practice, the very idea of luxury in design might appear as an oxymoron. The first associations, or even a quick Google search, bring about a picture of abundance, excess and frivolity, associated with – for most people – unattainable lifestyles. But once its shiny surface is scratched, the concept of luxury turns out to be much more nuanced, complex and contradictory than the exuberant way of life it is usually compared with. Tightly bound to the notions of desire and need, luxury can only be understood within specific contexts, dynamics of everyday life, where it is negotiated and absorbed in both time and space.

Such an articulated understanding of luxury is the starting point of a new exhibition at the V&A Museum in London. Starting from a question – “What is Luxury?”, which also serves as the show’s title – the narrative tries to lay out different approaches and frameworks for understanding luxury in relation to design and craft. From a diamond made from roadkill to a vending machine stocked with DNA, a golden crown for ecclesiastical use to traditional military tailoring, over 100 objects address how luxury is made and understood in a physical, conceptual and cultural capacity.

Shifting between past and present, the first part of the exhibition examines notions of value and excellence in traditional craftsmanship, juxtaposing different objects representative of qualities mostly associated with luxury in craft. Concepts such as “extraordinary”, “precision” or “non-essential” bring together different objects – from Iris van Herpen’s 3D-printed dress to handmade Venitian lace – in an attempt to outline the relationship between luxury and skill in making. The second half of the exhibition, on the other hand, blends the present and the future, by using critical or speculative design objects, among which furniture made from human hair designed by Studio Swine and Studio Caviar’s FOMO printing machine, that show a glimpse of what luxury might look like in the years to come.

Rujana Rebernjak – Images courtesy of the V&A Museum 
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01/05/2015

Fashion Talents Take Over Hyères

The thirtieth edition of the International Festival of Fashion and Photography in Hyères, France, has just finished after three days and as many fashion shows. The competition between the ten selected designers was tough, and the jury, led by Chanel’s studio director Virginie Viard and including names such as Caroline de Maigret and Carine Roitfeld, thought every designer to be great in their own, unique way, which made it hard to compare them. Nevertheless, the final decision for the Première Vision Grand Prize fell on the Franco-German designer Annelie Schubert, based on the opinion that she has presented strong and elegant pieces with beautiful materials and colours. Besides international recognition and prestige, the top prize includes the possibility to create pieces in collaboration with Chanel’s specialized Métiers d’Art houses, including Massaro, Maison Michel, Lemarié, and Lesage and a collaboration with Petit Bateau. Therefore, Schubert will be given the tools to build her own brand and develop her design skills, and, judging from her showcase in Hyères, the results might be extremely interesting.

The other prize awarded in the fashion category is the Chloé Prize which was awarded to the German designer Anna Bornhold, for her innovative materials which she had created by threading scraps over a stiff cotton base, resulting in a weightless material and an easy look which the Chloé president Geoffroy de la Bourdonnaye thought was right in line with the brand’s aesthetic.

This year’s festival was a great and special edition, not only because of Chanel being this year’s guest of honour or because Karl Lagerfeld was this year’s Artistic Director or because of the fact that it was the festivals 30th anniversary; instead it was a special edition because it truly celebrated the most central aspect of the festival – the young talents.

Hanna Cronsjö 
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