After years of speculation, criticisms and debates, the 2015 EXPO in Milan is scheduled to opened its gates tomorrow. The world exhibition, which hosts 140 countries and is expected to welcome over 20 million visitors during the six months of its duration, is revolving around the evocative theme “Feeding the Planet Energy for Life”. Expo 2015 is conceived as a platform for the “exchange of ideas and shared solutions on the theme of food”, but also as a platform for geopolitical discussion, analysis and, of course, competition. While food is supposed to be at the centre of debates, the monumental architectural designs of certain pavilions are bound to overshadow the spirit of conviviality and exchange among participating countries. For a final count of successes and failures of Italy’s first Expo since 1992, we will have to wait the end of October 2015.
The BlogazineWhat is it that makes a model a supermodel? One of the features required for a model is to be chameleonic, to change in order to suit one look or the other. The other is to have a strong personality, in order to be remembered. These two characteristics seems to be entirely opposite, but, as usually happens in fashion, contradictions bear the most interesting results.
Gia Carangi is one of the first models who gained that prestigious prefix – ‘super’. Carangi was born in Philadelphia, but soon moved to New York to become a professional model, under the wing of the infamous former model and agent Wilhelmina Cooper. Openly lesbian, she soon started to work with the most important magazines and photographers, literally attracting the camera with her intense eyes, slender figure and signature androgynous-yet-sexy look, which supported the ambiguity that underlined the 80s aesthetic manifesto. It is difficult to see her as a muse, and harder to identify her with one of the designers she has worked with. In a period, between the seventies and the eighties, when fashion designers were adamant in defining an aesthetic that could characterize them and make them recognizable, Gia stood in campaigns for the most disparate of names, from Giorgio Armani to Versace, always showing a different side of her personality. Her force was that, when modelling, she was not performing a character. She was just being herself, picking from her many personalities, the one that suited best the mood of the brand she was wearing.
Even though at times her personal life and habits affected her work – she could leave the set with apparently no reason if she felt not in the ‘mood’ for a shooting, while, towards the end of her career, her addiction to drugs was incontrollable – her complexities were exactly what made her successful. Her spontaneity and freedom, together with her ‘dark sides’, transformed her from a model into a subject. The photographer Francesco Scavullo, one of her closest friends, did not refer to Gia as a model, but as a human being simply living in front of the camera. For him, to photograph her was ‘like photographing a stream of consciousness’. When talking about Gia Carangi, clothes seem to disappear, and even fashion as an idea gets a deepness only comparable to that of real life. It is not about what she wears, but how her inner self feels in that moment, with those clothes on. And here we get to the other fundamental feature of a supermodel: to make clothes look natural, to make them disappear, fused with their personality. It is this silent art that turns them into desirable objects we instinctively long for, thanks to the quiet spectacle that fashion is able to create.
Marta FranceschiniThirty years after its first edition, the International Festival of Fashion and Photography returns to Hyères, at the villa Noailles, for a showcase of contemporary creativity. As usual, this year’s selection of young photographers presented an eclectic mix of vocabularies and narratives, posing in front of an international jury presided by Eric Pfrunder, Image Director of Chanel, a difficult task. The final winners of the competition are Sjoerd Knibbeler – the winner of the jury’s Grand Prinx, Evangelia Kranioti – the winner of a special prize given in the occasion of the Festival’s 30th anniversary, and Polly Tootal – the winner of the prize awarded by the public.
Over the last two years, Sjoerd Knibbeler has been developing a project in which he challenged himself to photograph wind. The invisibility and motility of wind constitute the primary parameters of his research. Everything he photographs is real, yet he loves to create a tension which doubts that. Current studies is an ongoing series of short-lived experiments he conducts in his studio. Using basic DIY materials he constructs sets in which he tries to shape, surround and capture air currents. His aim with each Current study is to question the relationship between the flat, silent and still surface of the photograph and the movement and expansiveness of the space it is evoking. The paper planes series consists of 16 paper models of aircrafts that have never made it past the drawing board. Sjoerd Knibbeler was able to recreate these models based on information, technical drawings and “artist impressions”.
As a Greek native, Evangelia Kranioti has always considered the sea as her motherland, generating a series of concepts strongly linked to the theme of desire. Thus in 2005, she decided to pursue an ambitious artistic and anthropologic research, focusing on the life, travels and intimacy of sailors across the world. Prostitutes of the ports form an archetypical couple with sailors, offering an exciting metaphor on wandering, desire and man’s elementary relationship with the Other. In order to better understand what drives these Ulysses’ journey and Penelope’s waiting, Evangelia Kranioti decided to embark as a sailor. Only woman during her numerous crossings on board of tankerships, cargos and containers of the Greek merchant navy, she travelled in the ports of 20 countries. The works she has produced over this period include a vast photographic corpus and 450 hours of footage which lead to her first documentary feature, released in 2015.
Polly Tootal is a photographer of British landscapes, she travels on journeys through cities, towns and villages, passing suburbs and countryside along rivers and following coastlines. The landscapes she registers are not likely to be found in any popular chronicle of the land, rejecting as they do the obvious beauty or grandeur of things and instead existing in the spaces in-between, the ones that are passed through every day, so nameless as to be embedded deeply into our consciousness and then forgotten. They are spaces marked with the richness of human activity, yet bereft of human presence. The images often lie upon thresholds and boundaries, liminal zones, between urban and rural, leisure and industry, lived-in and discarded. Warehouses, business parks, shopping centers, waste-ground, motor- ways, car parks: the non-places that quietly fill up our lives, the sites of transience. The universal anonymity of these photos tells another story of modern Britain.
The Blogazine – Images courtesy of Hyères Festival and respective authorsThe family-run brand Missoni was launched more than 60 years ago, in 1953, when Tai and Rosita Missoni began manufacturing their signature knit designs, growing since then into a true fashion empire. Currently on show at the MA*GA museum in Gallarate, is an exhibition accentuating the relationship between Missoni’s aesthetic and the arts. “Missoni, Art, Colour” is an examination of the mutual influences, inspirations and references that developed between the Italian brand and the art world, through their particular interest in colour and patterns.
The exhibition opens with a video installation, dated 2009, by artist Ali Kazma, and continues with a candid imagery of the fashion house, illustrating the mix of modern design and craftsmanship which in many ways is embodied by the Missoni brand. Besides the colourful designs displayed on a raised platform, a prominent place in the exhibition was given to Ottavio Missoni’s personal artworks, exhibited among paintings by renowned international artists, including works by Kandinsky, Paul Klee and Sonia Delaunay, who has influenced the aesthetic of Missoni and their vivacious patterns and unique style. Installations by Luca Missoni and Angelo Jelmini that feature huge spools of colored threads and nettings of fabric compose another part of the showcase, together with over 100 fashion pieces from the Missoni library.
“Missoni, Art, Color” gives an insight into the constantly ongoing discussion about the relationship between fashion and art, seen through the narrow lens of the Italian heritage brand. The exhibition does not claim to comment on the matter outsides of Missoni territory, yet it gives a clear example of how intertwined both sectors are and how, over time, they have come to influence each other, with a silent dialogue between artists and fashion functioning both as inspiration and influence. The exhibition Missoni, Art, Color is currently at display at MA*GA Museum in Gallarate, Italy and will run until the 8th of November 2015.
Victoria Edman – Images courtesy of MAGA Museum“Eventually everything connects – people, ideas, objects… the quality of the connections is the key to quality per se.” Charles Eames’ quote opens this purely visual book in which the designer is a key link between the images and the story being told. Vitra’s “Everything is Connected” thoughtfully compiles photographs conveying the essence of connectivity. The Swiss interior design company’s book echoes the game when, as a child, we learned to be visual detectives by looking for hidden objects in puzzling images. Here, the hidden object can be a color, a shape, or a motif. Patterns travel effortlessly through the twentieth century like a time machine, yet instead of limiting itself to a linear approach, Everything is Connected shows the evolution of a piece of furniture such as the iconic Eames Lounge Chair through situational sequences. Ads, snapshots, portraits, and sketches demonstrate the prevalence of such objects with elegance, subtle wit, and sometimes blatant humor. This book, published by Gestalten, was conceived as a window into the world of Vitra, allowing viewers to catch a glimpse of the infinity of connections between the featured objects.
The BlogazineStreet wear doesn’t just have to be just T-shirts and sweat pants – put in a little more effort and you can still look casual and chic. Match a denim shirt with a nice trouser, trench and sneakers and it makes a perfect outfit from day to evening.
Trench coat: Maison Margiela, Shirt: A.P.C., Trousers: Burberry Prorsum, Sneakers: Common Projects, Sunglasses: Saint LaurentStyling by Vanessa Cocchiaro
Recently, design got us used to frequent intrusions in the domain of art. Party because of consumers’ growing desire of bespoke objects, partly because of the encouraging economic results of the limited-edition market, designers have become more willing to give birth to projects that flirt with an artistic approach and soon become too narcissist and redundant. To this end, the recent debate aroused by Hella Jongerius and Louise Schouwenberg’s manifesto “Beyond the New. A Search for Ideals in Design” is a necessary warning about the excesses of what is commonly defined as art-design. This is the reason why Moroso’s latest project – “Vis-à-Vis: design meets art” – presented during latest Salone del Mobile, is a curios yet significant U-turn between the disciplines balance of power. In fact, the preconception of a déjà-vu, a seductive yet reverential gesture that sees design bowing in the presence of art, is subverted as soon as we encounter Jörg Schellmann’s new collection of furniture in the ground floor of via Pontaccio showroom.
Jörg Schellmann’s profile is peculiar. Well-known internationally for his editions of contemporary art (his company Edition Schellmann, now Schellmann Art, was founded in New York in 1969), Schellmann converted to furniture design in 2008, putting in production furniture by artists, as well as his own designs. Despite an artistic background, his sensitivity doesn’t move away from the requirements of serial production: all his pieces are industrially reproducible, respectful of ergonomic principles, and share an orthogonal aesthetics that, at a first sight, seems to be inclined to the ideal of “good form”. However, his artistic sensitivity appears here and there, through a series of loans and quotes, such as the archetypical plastic boxes used in the “Storage” containers, or in the clear reference to the minimalistic aesthetics of Sol LeWitt and Donald Judd.
“Vis-à-Vis” artistic influence, indeed, is not relegated to Schellmann’s background. Around his collection and other Moroso’s pieces, the works of acclaimed contemporary artists are displayed on the walls, such as, among others, Daniel Buren, Gilbert&George, Cindy Sherman, Rosemarie Trockel. These works seem to restore a boundary that, after too many abuses, we were missing and suggest, by the way, that it is possible to promote a dialogue without recurring to an inevitable contamination of genres.
Giulia ZappaHouse of Dagmar celebrates ten years within the fashion industry by launching an exclusive dress collection with ten favourites chosen from the past decade. The brand’s success story started in the 2005, when three sisters – Karin Söderlind, Kristina Tjäder and Sofia Wallenstam – decided to start their own brand after having studied and worked within the fields of fashion design, marketing, and economics. The Swedish fashion industry had, during this period, started to expand and thanks to their optimistic outlook and entrepreneurship, the three sisters only saw opportunities for their innovative brand House of Dagmar. The brand is named after their grandma, Dagmar, who played an important role in the three sisters lives, as she inspired them to go their own way and encouraged their fashion interest at an early age, by showing them international fashion magazines, through her work as a seamstress and her personal, chic style.
Ten years later, the brand has grown to become a central part of the Swedish fashion industry, winning awards like this year’s designer at the Swedish Elle Style Awards 2015. Their signature trademark, such as sophisticated materials, focus on details and feminine, wearable pieces, are all a crucial part of their success. Through building their brand on traditional Scandinavian sewing techniques and uniting their technical knowledge with modern elegance, they have achieved to create their own aesthetic. House of Dagmar’s classic and yet modern approach to fashion, has resulted in pieces and collections that feel as relevant today as they did when they first were launched – an important aspect of their idea of creating pieces that are long-lasting both in terms of quality and design. Among the dresses relaunched for their ten year anniversary, you can find exquisite examples like their signature crochet lace dress. By the time the brand celebrates 20 years, there will be even more House of Dagmar dresses to cherish and wear over and over.
Hanna CronsjöThe fashion film is a relatively new phenomenon. However, the relationship between fashion and film is certainly not new. Several times in the past, we could witness key moments when fashion has influenced film and vice versa. Just look at Woody Allen’s Annie Hall or Tom Ford’s A Single Man. Nevertheless, the latest mode of interaction between cinema and fashion has taken the route of short films produced by great directors, artists and actors for fashion brands. But has the short film been incorporated into fashion labels simply for marketing? Rodarte has, through a collaboration with Todd Cole, delivered several fashion short films, including This Must Be the Only Fantasy in 2013, starring Elijah Wood with a surreal and magical tribute to fantasy. Karl Lagerfeld presented Reincarnation starring Cara Delevingne and Pharrell Williams to accompany the Paris-Salzburg collection for Chanel. More often than not the short films seem to be a company to the collection or product itself.
Different fashion houses have, within the framework of their names, different possibilities to create original systems of expression. Nevertheless, short films that create the feel for the label’s season, still have to abide by certain rules in order for the viewers and consumers to be drawn in. It’s about creating something unexpected, yet in tone with the brand. Short films can be used merely for marketing purpose, a fun way to introduce a new collection or product. However, they can also help to build on the label’s heritage. Presenting a story in a nice bow adds layers to fashion houses, placing them within a different context. With the mainstream becoming wider within the fashion world and the internet speeding up the processes of each season, short films are a demonstration of the nature of fashion that says something more than just: “purchase”.
Fashion will always be that je ne sais quoi, that little something that is the reason why some trends fail and other conquer. It is not as simple as survival of the fittest; instead it is finding a balance between staying new and staying relevant. By using the visual media of film, labels can promote, create and exist within the luxurious surreal fantasy bubble, under controlled circumstances, without losing an established identity.
Victoria Edman
Farah Al Qasimi is a young photographer based between Dubai, UAE and New York. Set between two cultures, two modes of living and ways of understanding the world, Al Qasimi’s photographs are focussed on uncovering a sense of displacement – what are its material traces and how it shifts our perception of the reality. With her project “The World is Sinking”, centered around ‘back alleys’ of Dubai, Al Qasimi takes a look at hidden aspects of the ordinary, of her own past and relationship to the city itself. Capturing the overlooked aspects of the mundane in Dubai – forgotten halls, abandoned commercial sights, debris – Al Qasimi reveals less glamourous, unknown aspects of the city with a subtle and careful poetics, that reveals as much about the metropolis’ secret life as much as it speaks about the author herself.
The Blogazine – Images courtesy of Farah Al Qasimi