Wool is the winter fabric par excellence, yet what we saw this season is a literal knitting invasion. Not only in the form of classic sweaters, the fabric also came in the exciting form of pants and bags. The most innovative look was the one presented by both Stella McCartney and Céline. Extra large shapes for the first, long flared pants –with partially covered shoes – long sleeves and tight silhouettes, for the second. The color palette is pretty similar as well, with the choice of beige, light shades of brown and grey, serving as a statement with the aim to promote ease and warmth in winter-wear.
Marc Jacobs followed the same path by underlining a Sixties mood made of sober knitted suits. The tendency of using in the wool in a different, more sophisticated manner comes even from classy brands: Alberta Ferretti and her refined sweater are a sweet proof of the new approach to knitwear.
On the menswear side, we saw an attempt to involve a wider use of the material in collection such as J.W. Anderson – the sort-of-poncho with a turtleneck that is so feminine yet equally suitable for men – and the maxi, blanket-like cover-ups from Missoni. It seems this year fashion has finally decided to let us cover ourselves up and enjoy the comfort of being warm, without giving up on style.
Francesca Crippa