01/07/2014

Young Architects Program at PS1: Hy-Fi by The Living

Summer seems to be the season for everything light, temporary and superficial, therefore even design and architecture disciplines need to follow suit, with temporary pavilions popping up everywhere from London to Venice. Following this line of development, albeit leaving the superficial side to other creative practices like fashion and, more often than not, art, MoMA PS1 has recently unveiled the winning project of its Young Architect Program: The Living’s Hy-Fi tower.

With the aim of promoting emerging architectural talent and giving space to new forms of practice, YAP commissions a temporary, outdoor installation that needs to provide shade, seating and water, while, at the same time, addressing environmental issues. The winning project – Hy-Fi – designed by The Living’s David Benjamin, uses biological technologies combined with cutting-edge computation and engineering to create new building structure made from 100% organic materials. The building is structured as a simple tower made of rectangular bricks, inverting the logic of load-bearing construction and creating a gravity defying effect, with a porous bottom and a more dense upper part.

Yet, what is truly revolutionary about Hy-Fi is not its form or function, but the peculiar material from which it was built. The organic bricks are produced through an innovative combination of corn stalks (that otherwise have no value) and specially-developed living root structures. The reflective bricks are produced through the custom-forming of a new daylighting mirror film, used as growing trays for the organic bricks, and then incorporated into the final construction. The organic bricks are arranged at the bottom of the structure and
the reflective bricks are arranged at the top to bounce light down on the towers and the ground. The structure temporarily diverts the natural carbon cycle to produce a building that grows out of nothing but earth and returns to nothing but earth—with almost no waste, no energy needs, and no carbon emissions. This approach offers a new vision for society’s approach to physical objects and the built environment.

Rujana Rebernjak – Images courtesy of Kris Graves 
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01/07/2014

Paris Fashion Week: Military Looks and Tank-Tops

The overtly romantic French capital was the last stop on our Men Fashion Week road trip. The oldest and possibly most established venue, Paris has shown a new, easier, vibe this year, without losing its authentic signature – a dashingly charming attitude.

The first sign of change could be seen at Raf Simons’ show, where men in cotton tanks – layered one on top of another – walked the brainy designer’s catwalk. There was no space for sporty, basket-alike sleeveless shirts. Instead, it was all about quality craftsmanship and impeccable garments, usually left for posh female clothing, matched with futuristic shoes and well tailored pants.

Dries Van Noten used a totally different approach, applying it to the same type of gaments. The Belgian designer took inspiration from elegant dancers and developed a collection full of feminine elements – together with tanks, a notable piece were the ballerina-shaped shoes. Kenzo, on the other hand, featured a series of pastel tones and maxi polka dots that gave the idea of an American tourist lost on the streets of Europe. But, in the end, the most unexpected runway was Dior Homme, with striped tanks styled on top of classic shirts rather than worn under elegant jackets, for a classy yet edgy feel.

On the other hand, air force and military world won the attention of many fashion designers, forming a second relevant trend. From Louis Vuitton’s man, a hybrid between Sixties-style bourgeoisie – with his turtlenecks and trench coats – and a daredevil aviator – with his decorated jumpsuits and typically rough belts – to Comme des Garçons, where Rei Kawakubo exploited military jackets and typical uniforms and subverted them to speak about peace. And last but not least, Givenchy fashion show sparked from that influence, too, with Riccardo Tisci going along his well established path, revisiting bomber jackets and utility pockets in line with army apparel codes.

Francesca Crippa 
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