03/06/2014

Remembering Massimo Vignelli

When the news of an open call for letters – to be addressed at Massimo Vignelli – expressing gratitude by all those whose lives had been touched by the great designer, first spread, it was hard to grasp the truth behind it. Massimo Vignelli, the grand master, the soul and conscience of modern graphic design, fell ill. He passed away last Tuesday, 27th of May 2014, leaving many of the said letters unread. Still, those which he did manage to read, spoke about “the quality of the work and the elegance of whatever we were doing in a project,” he said, adding “Let’s say if I died soon, I would die very happy. No regrets.”

Indeed, Mr. Vignelli had nothing to regret. During more than 60 years of work, Mr. Vignelli designed some of the most iconic, bold and lasting graphic design projects. An unconditional proponent of the Modernist Movement, he understood design as a way of reducing the vulgarity of our environment, continuously educating and refining our minds. For Mr. Vignelli, to design “is to decrease the amount of vulgarity in the world. It is to make the world a better place to be. But everything is relative. There is a certain amount of latitude between what is good, what is elegant, and what is refined that can take many, many manifestations. It doesn’t have to be one style. We’re not talking about style, we’re talking about quality. Style is tangible, quality is intangible. I am talking about creating for everything that surrounds us a level of quality.”

The level of Mr. Vignelli’s quality can be understood simply by mentioning that the visual identity for American Airlines, designed back in the 70s, was replaced only last year, with much rumour from the design community; while other notable projects, developed within Unimark International – the design company he founded in 1971 -, include visual identities for JC Penney, Knoll, Benetton, rather than signage for Milan or New York transport authorities. But more than leaving behind a myriad of great project, Mr. Vignelli left a legacy of young designers eager to follow his lessons about life and work. One of them, Michael Beirut, remembers one of the most significant lessons Mr. Vignelli taught him: “If you do good work, you get more good work to do, and conversely bad work brings more bad work. It sounds simple, but it’s remarkable, over the course of a lifetime of pragmatism and compromise, how easy it is to forget: the only way to do good work is simply to do good work. Massimo did good work.” Dear Mr. Vignelli, your good work will be missed.

Rujana Rebernjak 
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03/06/2014

The Conquest of Plissé

The plissé has conquered SS 2014 catwalks: taking over just every style and form – geometric shapes, a sporty flair, romantic and metal shades – the trend seems to live one of its golden times. As with almost any other fashion trend, the interest in pleated fabrics has a quite long history. Looking as far back as to old Egyptians and ancient Greeks, one can find interesting images portraying long wrap skirts and tunics. At the beginning of the 90s, Issey Miyake, the Japanese designer most known for his perpetual use of plissé, took inspiration from Mariano Fortuny, the inventor of the legendary Delphos robe, in turn a representation of the charioteer of Delphi.

Nearly two decades later, this year we have enjoyed quite a lot of plissé on the catwalks: we admired the sculptured and refined pleated details such as the decorative frills on the clothing of Dries Van Noten; sporty and preppy lines created by Ports 1961; and, again, shimmering yet minimal choices of Proenza Schouler. For Dior, Raf Simons, keeps digging deep into the Maison’s roots, offering a contemporary interpretation of the New Look collection by making clothes shorter with an added modern twist.

Bringing back the plissé, a technique that requires hours of patience and high ability in craftsmanship, can be understood as a call for bringing the quality back in fashion. Playing with something so hard to obtain, is a sort of a demonstration that deep knowledge and skill should always prevail over colossal industries and low quality.

Francesca Crippa 
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02/06/2014

Style Suggestions: London Style

We are quickly approaching men’s fashion week and London is up first! Here are our suggestions of some of our favorite British designers.

Trousers: Folk, Shoes: Mr. Hare, Glasses: Cutler and Gross, Umbrella: Swaine Adeney Brigg

Styling by Vanessa Cocchiaro 

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02/06/2014

Guest Interview n°55: Michael Ackerman

We went to mc2gallery to see the new exhibition of Michael Ackerman (b. 1967, Tel Aviv, Israel. Lives and works in Berlin and New York.) and ask him something about his life and work.

Could you tell us something about your personal story? When did you decide to become a photographer? How and why did this happen?
At university, at age 18 I joined a student photography organization and learned the basics from older students. I was immediately obsessed and unable to focus on my studies. In class I didn’t pay attention, I just waited for it to be over so I could go out to take pictures. I regret that now, but I was too young and immature to learn at that age. Photography ignited my curiosity about the world.

How do you describe your work? What type of camera do you use and how much does the media and printing process influence the final result?
I don’t like to describe my work but I guess it could be summed up as personal documentary. It comes from real life but it’s absolutely subjective. I use small, easy cameras. The printing is crucial and I work very hard on it. I still love to be in the dark room even if it’s lonely and so much of the time I don’t obtain the result I want.

Did/do you have any source of inspiration? Which one?
The same as everyone else. Being alive and being aware of death.

How do you get to a book project? Could you tell us something regarding your previous publications (“End Time City” and “Half Life”), how do these projects come about?
“End Time City” was made after several trips to India between 1993 to 1997. I had a box of prints, I don’t know how many. Through many lucky circumstances I was introduced to Christian Caujolle who pushed to have my work shown and still does. And I met Robert Delpire who agreed to publish the book. And the other ones when I thought they were ready. But it started when a good friend moved from New York to Milan and was showing people my work. He got me my first exhibition in Europe and then one thing led to another.

What do you usually do when you are not working?
Cooking, laundry, cleaning, playing with my kid.

It seems that you are a hard traveller. What are your favorite places in the world and why?
I’m not a traveller. But I feel rootless and homeless. I don’t have a favorite place in the world but I have favorite places in different cities I go to. A small bar in Paris, the Jewish cemetery in Warsaw, the streets of Naples. Things like that.

What do you see in your future? Is there any project that you look forward to undertake?
I’m trying to do some things I haven’t done before. Little film portraits of friends. And finishing some old work. But I am very slow and not good at imagining the future.

Monica Lombardi – Images courtesy of Michael Ackerman/Agence VU’ Paris  
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