Men’s Fashion Week Paris
After a trip to London, and a few air miles to Milan, the Fashion world turned its ever-watchful eye to the Parisian runway.
Last week, London’s first own fashion week for men saw the light of day, and few were surprised by the edgy performances from upcoming artists presented. Afterwards Milan took the wheel during the midsummer’s celebration, before it was time for the giants of Paris to present their collections for the fall and winter.
Acne’s Johnny Johansson has previously expressed a wish to make clothes that simply flatter both sexes equally, without differentiating. Whether he succeeded to blur gender lines with this somewhat masculine denim collection is discussable, but the collection did provide a few memorable moments with its slouchy hats.
Rick Owens surprised no one when presenting yet another flawless collection, and a part of his successful concept seems to be that he translates archived women’s wear into menswear.
Lanvin’s collection almost took an ironic twist, when taking back Céline‘s tomboy silhouette and slick detailing to the men’s arena with leather tops, luxurious slacks and belts that created a stark contrast.
On the circus-side the designer Thom Browne held up his usual end of the bargain with multi-coloured square clothing and avant-garde silver face paint. By what seemed like major inspiration from St. Martin’s graduate’s collections, Browne managed to create the eccentric colour explosion every fashion week needs.
And finally we have Team Margiela that had experimented with materials as usual. Even if they couldn’t turn polyester into gold, they still managed to turn cotton into what looked like silvery leather. In a collection that at the first glance might appear plain, this fabric experimentation felt modern and relevant for contemporary men’s fashion.
