Gareth Pugh Pitti 79, a Film by Ruth Hogben
Gareth Pugh is plainly, patently a visionary. Maybe even a genius. The British wunderkind Central Saint Martin’s graduate has cemented his position as a fixture within the newer-than-new generation of fashion, and remains at the vanguard of the avant-garde (and is a subject on which that irritatingly overused buzzword actually means something). Having stumbled organically into his unconventional, highly theatrical presentation style – initially because it provided a lower-cost alternative to an extravagant runway show – it has over time developed into one of the benchmark highlights of every season in men’s fashion.
His signature organic constructivist looks have lately become something altogether more sophisticated through his otherworldly presentations. He continues to push the envelope through bombastic experimentation, and remains the most visible designer in men’s fashion to attempt so thoroughly to overturn the very foundations of the mostly staid pants-shirt-jacket-accessory template imposed perpetually on the stronger sex. Strata, layer and ornament are secondary in his presentations to a complete re-imagination of form, direction and movement that would most certainly have thrown even Barthes for a loop. And with his presentation at this year’s edition of Pitti Uomo, a film by Ruth Hogben, he strikes as much a semiotically masterful dreamscape as ever before, and continues. Projected on the ceiling of Florence’s majestic Palazzo Pitti, the film in its intended habitat recalled an alternate universe Sistine Chapel. One in which the human form is radically transformed – close your eyes after you watch it. It’s jarring.
Following is a short, sweet message he sent to his fans at Pitti in lieu of his presence this season. Much love and admiration, Mr. Pugh.
Tag Christof, media courtesy Gareth Pugh
