Guest Interview n° 19: Kostas Murkudis
Kostas Murkudis is multitalented Berliner in search of the perfect shape. He has years of experience working with Helmut Lang and as far as he’s concerned, fashion is a serious business. Belonging to the rarified group of true designer-artists in fashion, Mr. Kostas’ conceptual work surprises with sharp, unique and smart pieces. We caught up with him on one of our recent trips to Berlin.
It seems that you have always been close to the design world – you almost embarked on the path of a graphic artist but veered off into fashion – why the change of heart?
It was never the idea to change paths!
Your fashion work has a strong graphic influence; it seems in a way like you never abandoned them. So do you think you have managed to mix both of your interests?
I don’t think that… In fact, it’s more of an architectural moment in my work rather than one full of graphic influences. My interests are always very complex and I love to combine and fuse conflicting sides.
You are considered by the industry as one of the few legitimate fashion-artists. What do you think about it? And why do you think they might categorize you in that way?
That sounds like being an outsider. Actually that’s not my aim. I do love the industry and the power it wields as much as I love working in other fields, like collaborations with other artists or experimenting in other disciplines.
Your use of shapes and fabrics is impeccable. How do you manage the challenge to make conceptual and wearable clothes?
Those are indeed the parameters of my working process and the way I look at things. I don’t like to think about useless one-minute garments.
Are you an obsessive planner or you are more improvisational in the conception of your clothes?
I love to keep the process open until the last moment and follow my intuition.
Source of inspiration?
It can be so many different things – from virtual imaginations, motion architecture art and movies. I love to look also into historical moments. Most of the time its very romantic in its approach.
Your work seems so… correct, for lack of a better word. Deep, harmonious, serious and the product of a lot of work. Your apparent dedication begs the question: are you a serious worker or do you sometimes have some fun on the job?
Indeed – I am a serious worker – most of the time – but we as a team do have also very funny moments while we are preparing and searching for the shapes and styles. We laugh very much about the first steps during our work in progress. The funniest moments are when our stylist from London is with us for the fittings.
It seems you have done quite a few collaborations with very diverse brands. What is that process of mixing ideas like?
That’s a great experience I don’t like to miss anymore. When to brands start to work together – to respect and listen to the other side as much as possible. I am so thankful for this opportunity to learn and get the back up of a specialist of a certain kind of design and craftsmanship.
Are your collaborations something that you actively seek out or are they more often opportunities that had “popped” at the right time?
It is both – but always full of respect and curiosity on both sides and the wish to discover new fields together.
What should we expect from Kostas Murkudis in the future?
New collaborations and getting closer again with the industry of fashion and more artistic projects.
Interview by Juan Alvarado, Images courtesy Kostas Murkudis
